I think I'm going no-till - Page 13

Lindalana · June 5, 2016

Stole your design. Looks like it will be best of all I tried over the years.
Thanks much!

Gerardo · June 5, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cole_Robbie

Thank you both.

Another thing I forgot to mention is that I keep getting leaf curl stress on the bottom leaves whenever I use my fertilizer injector, even though there is no fertilizer in the soil. It happens both with the Cal Nitrate and the 4-18-38. I'm going to lay off the fertigation for a while. The plants don't seem to like it.

My theory is that I have a soil high in humates and other nutrient uptake accelerators. That's what I wanted, but I am finding that it's extremely easy to over-fertilize. Maybe I will try some molasses next, instead of chem ferts.

I got some of that with a batch of plants i gave a hefty startup dose of 17-17-17; with additional CalNitrate granules in the tubes the dwarfs really showed the signs. I've gone lower dose on the fertigation and they like it. Mg is my friend.

With crab meal and dolomitic to start and CalNitrate as maintenance I've yet to see BER this year. Time to put the streak to the test with some San Marzanos.

Cole_Robbie · June 6, 2016

I am finding that the end posts of plastic pipe will need additional support, at least on my 100' rows. I am going to go back and put the 2x2 wood version of those posts for the ends. Otherwise they sag inward. It gets worse as your strings become higher, pulling inward closer to the top.

BigVanVader · June 6, 2016

I agree with the high humates comment. It seems that way for me as well after putting out so much manure/compost a little fert goes a really long way and sometimes I would swear I can see a difference in 12 hours or so.

Looking at the design of that pvc setup made me think that it would likely work well for a single row system if you made it taller and dropped strings down. Ofc then you'd have to use clips which I am learning can be tiresome.

Cole_Robbie · June 8, 2016

My plants have whiteflies. I noticed them two days ago in the high tunnel, and now they are on my outdoor plants. I sprayed everything with Met 52 tonight. With 900' of row, I burn through the spray quickly. I have about 1/4th of a bottle left. I am going to buy one more $60 half-pint and see how far that gets me into the summer. I can't afford to keep spraying it all summer if it doesn't knock out the whiteflies.

Malathion is the cheap and easy choice. I hope it doesn't come to that.

4season · June 10, 2016

Looking at the picture in post 181, there isn't much room for the sun to hit the ground. In the space between my rows unmulched soil temp is about 140 and under the mulch somewhere between 84 and 90. I may be close to no till but unmulched areas are getting solarized.

Cole_Robbie · June 10, 2016

The whiteflies have spread rapidly among my outdoor plants. The first large fruit in the high tunnel I harvested have blotchy, uneven ripening from whitefly damage. From what I read, it is the sweet potato whitefly, an invasive species.

Tonight's spray recipe was Met52 and seaweed, the latter of which whiteflies hate, at least from what I read. They won't lay eggs in seaweed residue.

I was discouraged at first about the Met52's effectiveness, when I saw how rapidly the whiteflies were spreading. But then I remembered that I sprayed just the high tunnel four days ago. Even in the spot that I had them the worst, I can hardly see any whiteflies in the high tunnel. Met52 seems to work well, it just takes four days, and whiteflies reproduce and spread like mad, especially in warm weather.

PureHarvest · June 12, 2016

Have you considered buying the yellow sticky traps that come on a roll? Run it like a banner down each of your rows.
Start out next spring with it in your tunnel and hope that keeps them from building and heading outside?

Cole_Robbie · June 12, 2016

Thanks. It's a thought, depending on cost. Reflective mulch may be another idea to try.

Gerardo · June 12, 2016

Don't go too high on the Met52, it can fry flowers.
Maybe a good dousing with some strong Neem?
I've been using a health/beauty-topical that's undiluted (thanks Marsha!) and it seems to have way more punch than the "garden" labeled version.

I've been playing the fungicide vs Met52 game and this time I had to lean towards the fungicide side of things, as it is June gloom around here.

later in the summer Met52 will come in from the bullpen.

Cole_Robbie · June 12, 2016

The tricky part is that Met52 *is* a fungus. It's a fungal spore. I don't think Daconil would kill the Met52, but any other fungicide would, at least I would think so.

I should have been spraying everything as soon as I planted out, and not waited until I saw the whiteflies. By the time they are visible, even to a somewhat experienced eye, the damage is done - not that you can tell until the fruit try to ripen.

Tracydr · June 12, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gerardo

Don't go too high on the Met52, it can fry flowers.
Maybe a good dousing with some strong Neem?
I've been using a health/beauty-topical that's undiluted (thanks Marsha!) and it seems to have way more punch than the "garden" labeled version.

I've been playing the fungicide vs Met52 game and this time I had to lean towards the fungicide side of things, as it is June gloom around here.

later in the summer Met52 will come in from the bullpen.

What's the brand name for that neem?

Gerardo · June 12, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cole_Robbie

The tricky part is that Met52 *is* a fungus. It's a fungal spore. I don't think Daconil would kill the Met52, but any other fungicide would, at least I would think so.

I should have been spraying everything as soon as I planted out, and not waited until I saw the whiteflies. By the time they are visible, even to a somewhat experienced eye, the damage is done - not that you can tell until the fruit try to ripen.

I hear you, lately I've been trying to balance anti fungal activity vs anti whitefly fungus. I figure 5 days post neem/DE should be ok. I've been doing Met 52, then 3 days later reapply, wait four days then start with the Neem/DE again. Wait 5 days, then Met 52...

Gerardo · June 12, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tracydr

What's the brand name for that neem?

This stuff: https://amzn.com/B00DUJDG0Y

Cole_Robbie · June 16, 2016

I just picked Utyonok and Dwarf Wild Fred from the outdoor plants. My Utyonok is red, not orange. My Dwarf Wild Fred is also more red than I remember, and less dark.

I didn't try any of those yet, but I did try some "Sweet Cranberry." They are not good at all, mealy. not especially sweet, and not as good as a hybrid cherry. Maybe it's weather or conditions.

June 6, 2016	#183
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	I am finding that the end posts of plastic pipe will need additional support, at least on my 100' rows. I am going to go back and put the 2x2 wood version of those posts for the ends. Otherwise they sag inward. It gets worse as your strings become higher, pulling inward closer to the top. Last edited by Cole_Robbie; June 6, 2016 at 01:28 AM.

June 6, 2016	#184
BigVanVader Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Greenville, South Carolina Posts: 3,099	I agree with the high humates comment. It seems that way for me as well after putting out so much manure/compost a little fert goes a really long way and sometimes I would swear I can see a difference in 12 hours or so. Looking at the design of that pvc setup made me think that it would likely work well for a single row system if you made it taller and dropped strings down. Ofc then you'd have to use clips which I am learning can be tiresome.

June 8, 2016	#185
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	My plants have whiteflies. I noticed them two days ago in the high tunnel, and now they are on my outdoor plants. I sprayed everything with Met 52 tonight. With 900' of row, I burn through the spray quickly. I have about 1/4th of a bottle left. I am going to buy one more $60 half-pint and see how far that gets me into the summer. I can't afford to keep spraying it all summer if it doesn't knock out the whiteflies. Malathion is the cheap and easy choice. I hope it doesn't come to that.

June 10, 2016	#186
4season Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: albuquerque Posts: 308	Looking at the picture in post 181, there isn't much room for the sun to hit the ground. In the space between my rows unmulched soil temp is about 140 and under the mulch somewhere between 84 and 90. I may be close to no till but unmulched areas are getting solarized.

June 10, 2016	#187
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	The whiteflies have spread rapidly among my outdoor plants. The first large fruit in the high tunnel I harvested have blotchy, uneven ripening from whitefly damage. From what I read, it is the sweet potato whitefly, an invasive species. Tonight's spray recipe was Met52 and seaweed, the latter of which whiteflies hate, at least from what I read. They won't lay eggs in seaweed residue. I was discouraged at first about the Met52's effectiveness, when I saw how rapidly the whiteflies were spreading. But then I remembered that I sprayed just the high tunnel four days ago. Even in the spot that I had them the worst, I can hardly see any whiteflies in the high tunnel. Met52 seems to work well, it just takes four days, and whiteflies reproduce and spread like mad, especially in warm weather.

June 12, 2016	#188
PureHarvest Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Mid-Atlantic right on the line of Zone 7a and 7b Posts: 1,369	Have you considered buying the yellow sticky traps that come on a roll? Run it like a banner down each of your rows. Start out next spring with it in your tunnel and hope that keeps them from building and heading outside?

June 12, 2016	#189
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	Thanks. It's a thought, depending on cost. Reflective mulch may be another idea to try.

June 12, 2016	#190
Gerardo Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: San Diego-Tijuana Posts: 2,594	Don't go too high on the Met52, it can fry flowers. Maybe a good dousing with some strong Neem? I've been using a health/beauty-topical that's undiluted (thanks Marsha!) and it seems to have way more punch than the "garden" labeled version. I've been playing the fungicide vs Met52 game and this time I had to lean towards the fungicide side of things, as it is June gloom around here. later in the summer Met52 will come in from the bullpen.

June 12, 2016	#191
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	The tricky part is that Met52 is a fungus. It's a fungal spore. I don't think Daconil would kill the Met52, but any other fungicide would, at least I would think so. I should have been spraying everything as soon as I planted out, and not waited until I saw the whiteflies. By the time they are visible, even to a somewhat experienced eye, the damage is done - not that you can tell until the fruit try to ripen.

June 16, 2016	#195
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	I just picked Utyonok and Dwarf Wild Fred from the outdoor plants. My Utyonok is red, not orange. My Dwarf Wild Fred is also more red than I remember, and less dark. I didn't try any of those yet, but I did try some "Sweet Cranberry." They are not good at all, mealy. not especially sweet, and not as good as a hybrid cherry. Maybe it's weather or conditions.