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General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.

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Old January 29, 2017   #16
righand
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Thanks, AKmark....I have been using the Flora Series with Calmag for a year now and have good results with the Kratky Hydro buckets method and was top adding the nutrient to my SIP buckets....this year no more top fertilizing and adding nutrient directly to the reservoir. Right now I am playing with the organic Acti-sol Hen manure pellet fertilizer 4-6-8. Seems good so far. But have been interested in the General Hydroponics liquid BioThrive and the granular MaxiSeries and now throw in the FloraNova....my head is spinning....lol....cheers....
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Old February 2, 2017   #17
Black Krim
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Thanks Mark for the tutorial!!!!

I will take the plunge this year with more starts, and earlier starts ( if I can get Stupice seed) as I was pleased with my efforts a year ago. Live and learn. To seed how the experienced gardener does this is priceless to me.

Is this correct? Baby plants can be allowed to have tthe soils dry? BUT once fruit is set watering should be even?
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Old February 4, 2017   #18
AKmark
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Default Next step

It has been a week or so since we gave the sprouts their first dose of ferts at 600-800 ppm, now we bump them to 1200 ppm. These are now ready to transplant into larger containers, like 4" or dixiecups, which I like because they are space savers and are tall, so I can bury the whole stem.

Black Krim, yes, that is correct, don't let them dry out when they even have buds set
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Old February 4, 2017   #19
righand
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The seedlings look fantastic.....its looks like you are on the FloraNova recirculating feed chart? cheers...

http://gh.growgh.com/docs/Feedcharts...EC_03216am.pdf
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Old February 5, 2017   #20
Black Krim
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Will definitely be more careful about watering once flower buds appear. That might explain the drying of flowers on the first truss a couple weeks ago on my experimental indoor tomato plants.

Much to learn.
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Old February 6, 2017   #21
Ricky Shaw
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the FloraNova recirculating feed chart....

I've seen that chart and followed those recommendations using the Floranova products to good success. Of note is the ppm recommendations are in Truncheon/ .7 conversion. The ppm numbers will seem high to Hanna meter users on .5 conversion.

For those using EC

0.8 mhos seedlings
1.5 mhos early growth
2.0 mhos mature
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Old February 8, 2017   #22
AKmark
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Default 1st transplant

When you have leggy seedlings don't fret. Put a tiny bit of dirt in a tall container, turn the plug sideways, and bury the seedling stem. You can shorten them by coiling the stem a little too. I have found that Solo cups work great for space saving, they are skinny and tall just like I need.
I run my light for 12 hours to save electricity, and have juggled 304 seedlings under one light. While most are nice strong seedlings, some on the edges get a bit leggy, and varieties such as Crnkovic Yugoslavian grow tall very fast compared to others.

Now I will hang a second light because the footprint just expanded. These will stay in these containers until they go into their final resting place in the GH on March 1st.
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Old February 8, 2017   #23
BigVanVader
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Lol I do this all the time close to Spring. Great tip Mark.
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Old February 9, 2017   #24
AKmark
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Almost done, I wanted to show how many plants that one bale of pro mix could do, it came out to 280 plants in the solo cups. I have to thaw out another bale to finish the rest, these are sitting in a 4x8 flood table, two 600 watts HPS"s provide the light. This hassle always guarantees I am one of the first to have tomatoes at the markets. Three more weeks until I fire up the first GH, piece of cake.
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Old February 9, 2017   #25
KarenO
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They look great Mark!
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Old February 9, 2017   #26
BigVanVader
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Your plants look about 2-3 weeks ahead of mine, and your in Alaska. How big a container do you normally sell them in? I have some early starts for 1/2 gallon pots but I don't go any bigger and most of my plants are sold in 3" pots.
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Old February 9, 2017   #27
AKmark
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Thanks Karen, we are on track so far.

BVV, these are for production, the next batch will be too, will have 1500-2000 plants for production after all is done.
I will start my plants that I sell around March 7th and will continue to plant until April 15th, people start picking them up in the middle of April, and most get them in May. I sell 4", one gallon, and three gallon.
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Old February 9, 2017   #28
PureHarvest
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Mark, now that u are going two plants per bag, will you basically double your plant population? Or do you plan on eliminating some rows or changing in row spacing?
What percent increase in total yield are you shooting for?
I wonder how much more you will have to up your nutrient volume or watering.
Lastly, have you ever trailed grafting?
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Old February 9, 2017   #29
KarenO
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Mark, I am getting closer to stable with my True North Tomatoes, the potato leaf hearts that I bred. I would love for you to try them in a year or so if you can spare a pot in a corner Alaska aught to suit them well I think
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Old February 9, 2017   #30
BigVanVader
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKmark View Post
Thanks Karen, we are on track so far.

BVV, these are for production, the next batch will be too, will have 1500-2000 plants for production after all is done.
I will start my plants that I sell around March 7th and will continue to plant until April 15th, people start picking them up in the middle of April, and most get them in May. I sell 4", one gallon, and three gallon.
Ohhhhh I should have known that. Holy crap that is a lot of plants. How many per GH? I'm doing in ground and this year plan to space at 16 inches for single stem trellising. I assume you stagger plantings? Or all at once? Seedlings look great dude. My Mat-Su just started popping up!
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