Tomatoville® Gardening Forums


Notices

Information and discussion regarding garden diseases, insects and other unwelcome critters.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old July 13, 2019   #16
Guavatone
Tomatovillian™
 
Guavatone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 50
Default

Thanks.. Wow! Everyone’s saying bleach. Tspn/gallon? Bleach scares me... it really works?

I thought too much water was slightly yellow? Are you sure it’s #4?

They seem happy with last nights Foliar aspirin.

Last edited by Guavatone; July 13, 2019 at 08:55 AM.
Guavatone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 13, 2019   #17
AlittleSalt
BANNED FOR LIFE
 
AlittleSalt's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 13,333
Default

Yep, picture #4 shows bumps on the stem. They are called 'root initials'. If the stem was to touch soil/mix, those bumps would grow roots. It's an easy way to see overwatering.
AlittleSalt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 13, 2019   #18
Guavatone
Tomatovillian™
 
Guavatone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 50
Default

Great tip. Thanks salt. I thought you were going by the shriveled up leaves. I guess I need to let the containers get dry to the verge of wilting.

Do hairs on the stems also mean too much water?
Guavatone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 13, 2019   #19
Guavatone
Tomatovillian™
 
Guavatone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 50
Default

Fungal?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_4743.jpg (197.1 KB, 79 views)
Guavatone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 14, 2019   #20
Guavatone
Tomatovillian™
 
Guavatone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 50
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by b54red View Post
That is probably just some gray mold. Either spray with a copper spray or the bleach spray and it shouldn't be a problem if it is just starting. Is that a black tomato variety?
If it is it is almost certainly gray mold. Late Blight usually starts much higher up the plant at least it always has when I have been hit by it. If I had that few yellow leaves each year I would be very happy. Just remove them along with any other damaged or diseased leaves when you first spot them and apply a fungicide to lessen the severity of new diseases coming along.

Bill


Thanks Bill. It’s not black. I think it may be moskvich or cosmonaut volkov

I have a plant 3-4 feet away having similar wilt. And still getting yellow/orange on middle branches on 1-2 and haven’t watered since Thursday rain
Guavatone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 14, 2019   #21
nctomatoman
Tomatoville® Moderator
 
nctomatoman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7
Posts: 10,385
Default

Early blight and/or septoria - happens every year in humid, warm areas. Best to just remove blemished foliage, space plants appropriately. If you keep up with it, it doesn't kill plants. But the spores are on the backside of the foliage and can spread.
__________________
Craig
nctomatoman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 14, 2019   #22
Guavatone
Tomatovillian™
 
Guavatone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 50
Default

Thanks NC! I think i’m Going to follow Bill’s advice on Clorox and try it on one plant.
Guavatone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 14, 2019   #23
nctomatoman
Tomatoville® Moderator
 
nctomatoman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Hendersonville, NC zone 7
Posts: 10,385
Default

I find that the very best thing to do is just remove any lower foliage with blemishes. If you can keep ahead of it, there is no need to spray - but that is just my approach (I've never really sprayed anything on my plants ever, but I have the time to attend to them)
__________________
Craig
nctomatoman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 15, 2019   #24
AlittleSalt
BANNED FOR LIFE
 
AlittleSalt's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 13,333
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nctomatoman View Post
I find that the very best thing to do is just remove any lower foliage with blemishes. If you can keep ahead of it, there is no need to spray - but that is just my approach (I've never really sprayed anything on my plants ever, but I have the time to attend to them)
Thank you Craig. For whatever it might be worth, I agree with you. I did buy and read your Epic Tomatoes book.
AlittleSalt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 15, 2019   #25
Guavatone
Tomatovillian™
 
Guavatone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 50
Default

I guess this is you Craig/NC?

https://www.growingagreenerworld.com...epic-tomatoes/

I’m such a noob, but i’m trying to learn

Last edited by Guavatone; July 15, 2019 at 01:58 AM.
Guavatone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 15, 2019   #26
AlittleSalt
BANNED FOR LIFE
 
AlittleSalt's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 13,333
Default

He's a mentor.
AlittleSalt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 15, 2019   #27
Guavatone
Tomatovillian™
 
Guavatone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 50
Default

Some plants are spaced 1 foot, some 2 feet. I just saw the video from the link I posted and it seems I have some similarities to Craig’s set up. I’m growing on a cement patio in square foot milk crates with landscape fabric lining the containers. 2 crates stacked on top of each other. The top crate has no fabric on the bottom so that the roots can make their way through to the bottom crate.
Guavatone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 15, 2019   #28
b54red
Tomatovillian™
 
b54red's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 7,068
Default

Now that I can see the leaves clearly it looks like Early Blight to me. I agree about removing the leaves but would also apply Daconil. It seems to work the best of any of the fungicides I have tried on Early Blight. If it is Septoria I would use a copper spray.

I had a fairly bad outbreak of Early Blight and lost some fruit to sun scald because I had to remove so many leaves. It sometimes seems extreme but it sure helps in the long run.

Bill
b54red is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 15, 2019   #29
Guavatone
Tomatovillian™
 
Guavatone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 50
Default

That nasty picture above was just one plant. The rest are yellow and orange, but some in the middle of the plant not bottom. I wonder if it makes sense to toss out the 2 worst out of 12 plants?

Yes it seems extreme with plants with not many healthy leaves. But I guess the risk of spreading is worse...

Do the spores stay in the soil after the plants’ roots are removed?

I sprayed Serenade bc that’s what I have and pulled 2 weak plants

Thanks Bill
-Charlie

Last edited by Guavatone; July 15, 2019 at 07:23 PM.
Guavatone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old July 15, 2019   #30
Guavatone
Tomatovillian™
 
Guavatone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 50
Default

One more question. It may be coincidence, but right before the fungal outbreak I had diatomaceous earth on the mid to lower leaves, that sat on the plant for 2-4 days until it rained. This was to target flea beetles that were chomping holes through my plants leaves.

Could diatomaceous earth cause some of these problems by smothering the leaves?
Guavatone is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:39 PM.


★ Tomatoville® is a registered trademark of Commerce Holdings, LLC ★ All Content ©2022 Commerce Holdings, LLC ★