128 tomato plants and one currant bush in 20 by 20 foot area

[ginger2778]

Marla, those white grow bags look like just the thing. Here it is hot even in the winter. Can you please share your source for them?

I am so jealous!
Marsha

[Mlm1]

Originally Posted by ginger2778

Marla, those white grow bags look like just the thing. Here it is hot even in the winter. Can you please share your source for them?

I am so jealous!
Marsha

Marsha, I have ordered them 3 separate times from Amazon and it seems the source and price changed with each order but this is what I would look for although you might find a better price for a larger quantity .

http://www.amazon.com/Gal-Grow-Bag-1...hite+grow+bags

Marla

[z_willus_d]

Marla, your matrix is looking perfect. Sometime in the future, you could replace the PVC with metal conduit for more strength and longevity, since PVC will degrade with time under the sun. It looks like you might get some shade (afternoon? morning?) from the large trees that surround your garden. It's impressive the size of the fruit you can get from the single trained vines. There's a lot of fruit density to the garden, as is superbly evidenced by pic 5 of 5 from your post. I bet they taste so great due to the 100% organic (no spray) treatment you give them.

So are you replacing the soil anew each season? Or do you recycle previous year's?

Will you throw out the grow bags and replace each year? If so, what does that cost you to replace all the bags per season?

Again, thanks for posting... I really enjoy following your garden.

-naysen

[rwsacto]

Marla,

Great lookin' garden. You certainly do well with dense container growing. I assume that your "goal posts" are aligned north/south.

FYI you can paint the PVC in the off season to extend its life. First paint black to stop UV then paint white to keep cool.

Are your grafted plants producing more/less/same than ungrafted?

Cheers,

Rick

[RobinB]

Beautiful setup! It gets me thinking... if only I had a "handy" husband instead of one who cooks!

[Mlm1]

Naysen, this corner of the yard is infected with fusarium so I have to either graft (if i want to plant in the ground) or plant in pots. Unfortunately i can't reuse the soil (for tomatoes) since i don't trust that some fusarium spores haven't blown into it during the previous year. By far the biggest expense is the soil which I replace every year. I will replace the bags also. If I didn't have fusarium I would use the same structure but plant in the ground one foot apart and prune to one stem. I like the system but wish I could plant in the ground. I think it must cost about $4 - $5 for each plant (soil, bag and amendments) which is probably more than most people would want to spend. I have considered grafting everything and planting in the ground and am still considering it for next year.

I do get some shade both from the trees and from the plants themselves. I am on the Sacramento River so I get the Delta breeze. I think it might stay cooler here than it does over your way. I think those few degrees can make a difference.

I hope you get some answers soon on yours.

Marla

[Mlm1]

Rick, Thanks. The goal posts are almost north/south. That is great advice on the paint for the PVC. The grafted plants are slower than the single stem potted plants. the grafting process puts them behind to start with and I think pruning to a single stem speeds up the potted plants. Now that I have the camera out I will try to get pictures of the grafted plants for Naysen's photo thread.

Robyn, thanks and that's funny. Cooking is a very handy skill.

Marla

[LDx4]

Marla,

Your plants are looking beautiful! Can I ask about your fertilizing routine? You said last year that you use organic dry fertilizer, 1/4 cup every two weeks. Do you scratch that into the soil of each pot or spread it on top and then water in? And are you still using Fox Farm or EB Stone?

Thanks!

Lyn

[simmran1]

Mlm,

Thanks for posting, and wow, that's big time tomato dedication!! Wondering if tree branch pruning, and or tree removal would help air flow to dry soil & foliage. I'm wondering why fusarium is prevalent there. Maybe others have answers on tolerant varieties, etc.

[Mlm1]

Lyn, Thanks. Over the years I have tried different fertilizing routines. When I was using the dry organic fertilizer I did scratch it into the soil every 2 to 3 weeks. It was a lot of work with so many plants. So late last year I switched to a concentrated liquid foxfarm fertilizer that I added (watered down but still overly concentrated) to the pot as I watered (to water it down further). This year I found an organic pelleted fertilizer that I only have to add every 2 months so I put it in at the time of planting and I should only have to add two more time for the whole season. I will show a picture of everything that is in the pots. I used to make up my own soil but it was back breaking work. The bagged soil is more expensive but much easier than mixing myself. I start with the organic pottng mix and add two different mineral products (azomite and Cascade Minerals), the pellatized fertilizer by Dr Earth, Lime (not sure if I need that) and shrimp meal (because I accidently bought a lifetime supply and figure it can't hurt). So far it seems to be working out well.

Simmran, I generally don't have the fungal infections that are seen on damp plants and soil. Just fusarium which does very well in the heat. So the extra shade is helpful in keeping the garden a little cooler. Fusarium is a soil born disease and once it is in the soil it is hard to get rid of. The Sacramento valley has fusarium. I have purchased 1000's of potted plants (ornamental and vegetables) over the years from local growers/nurserys and it was probably just a matter of time before I brought one in that carried fusarium. With my current growing system, potted plants and grafted plants, I don't have much trouble with fusarium even though I know it is in the soil.

thanks for the comments,
Marla

[Mark0820]

I guess I overlooked this thread in the past. You have a very impressive system for growing tomatoes.

[Mark0820]

How did you attach the string to the pipe? I tried to look at the photos, but since the pipe is white it is difficult to see how it is attached.

[Mlm1]

Originally Posted by Mark0820

How did you attach the string to the pipe? I tried to look at the photos, but since the pipe is white it is difficult to see how it is attached.

Mark, I have tried a couple of different methods and in the end the simplest works the best for me. I tie a loop in one end, and put the string over the pipe and back through the loop. I'll see if I can post a simple diagram. There are string holders that you can buy and attach to the pole which allow you to drop the whole plant down as the fruit is set higher up.
Marla

[Mark0820]

Marla, thanks for the diagram. That looks like a simple approach.

[aclum]

Hi Marla,

Your gardens are looking great!! Your trellis set-up has been an inspiration for my own garden. How many total plants to you have (including the ones outside "the matrix?)? I can't imagine processing all the resulting tomatoes. It makes me tired just thinking about it <g>!

Thanks for also posting the planting materials you're using - really helpful. There are a couple of products that look really interesting and worth a try.

Do you do anything special when the plants reach the top of your trellis - or do you top them and let them play out on what's left of the stem?

Can't wait to hear or read about the results of your "test" garden and what new seeds you might be offering (I'm already thinking of plants for a fall crop or the coming year!).

Anne