Bacterial Spot?

txraddoc · July 28, 2016

Hi Everyone,

I've been lurking read and learning here for a while. I've gotten into container gardening and have enjoyed the Dwarf Project. I have a bunch growing now and they do great! Here are some pictures of store bought tomatoes with what I think is bacterial spot. I am no expert though. Any opinions would be appreciated.

I've attached pictures. Hopefully they work! Thanks for your help.

nhardy · August 3, 2016

Which leaves? Bottom, top? I'm a newbie on the forum. But have been growing all my life.

Use this to start: http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.o...20Problems.pdf

I finally gave in and sprayed Ortho Max garden disease control the last week of June. I got healthier plants this year. 6 ft. plants with tons of fruit. Planning to start a few days earlier next year with my spraying schedule.

But get rid of the diseased leaves now. I did not act fast enough and refused to use Ortho the last few years. And I paid for it. Without health plants, they could not produce tomatoes. They struggled and were defoliated by early Oct. Your window is closing soon for this year and next year get the upper hand. Some people use copper sprays. But I already had the Ortho and controlled a lot of things.

txraddoc · August 3, 2016

Thanks for the help. This started at the bottom of the plant and is working its way up. I'll pick up some Ortho today.

gorbelly · August 3, 2016

The larger lesions look like classic early blight to me. It's always possible to have more than one issue going on, too.

b54red · August 3, 2016

Just cut off the diseased leaves and keep a good fungicide on them and the problem will be manageable most of the time. Keeping the plant pruned so no leaves are near the ground will help as will pruning to keep good air flow and sunlight to the plant.

Bill

ginger2778 · August 3, 2016

I'm going with early blight too. The concentric rings and yellow halo, irregular shape, older leaves are the clue. I like liquid copper at the weakest recommended strength on the bottle. Management shouldn't be too hard. I would do a spray every 4 days for 3 times, then every 7-10 days, and after a heavy rain.

nhardy · August 3, 2016

Thinking it would be washed off in the rain, I have sprayed 3 times with Ortho. But most of my leaves still have a good covering along after the rain. So I guess I'm straying a lot less from here out if any. I'm so glad I got a small tank sprayer on the cheap a few years ago at the beginning of the season. It makes it so easy to manage this problem.

bower · August 3, 2016

+1 for Early Blight.
This crops up on my plants sooner or later every year. I manage it by picking off the bad leaves. I do a round every day and take away anything I see moldy or blighty. And that is enough to keep it from spreading - especially from affecting main stems or fruit, which is a tragedy.
One thing I've noticed too, bleach dipped pruners prevent the pruning cuts from turning into Early Blight lesions.
My friend is trying Serenade this year in her greenhouse. She sprayed once so far, and feels it was well worth it. Won't be spending as much time grooming the plants or cursing fruit losses.

txraddoc · August 4, 2016

Thanks for the help everyone! I bought some copper fungicide yesterday. I sprayed it on then it rained!! So, I'll do it again today.

b54red · August 6, 2016

We are forecast to have at least a 50% chance of rain all of next week starting tomorrow so I am going to have to be very vigilant looking out for spot and speck diseases as well as early blight and gray mold. If the forecast holds I'm sure it will be a good bit cooler which could really help with fruit set for fall.

Bill

August 3, 2016	#2
nhardy Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: St. Louis Posts: 82	Which leaves? Bottom, top? I'm a newbie on the forum. But have been growing all my life. Use this to start: http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.o...20Problems.pdf I finally gave in and sprayed Ortho Max garden disease control the last week of June. I got healthier plants this year. 6 ft. plants with tons of fruit. Planning to start a few days earlier next year with my spraying schedule. But get rid of the diseased leaves now. I did not act fast enough and refused to use Ortho the last few years. And I paid for it. Without health plants, they could not produce tomatoes. They struggled and were defoliated by early Oct. Your window is closing soon for this year and next year get the upper hand. Some people use copper sprays. But I already had the Ortho and controlled a lot of things.

August 3, 2016	#3
txraddoc Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2014 Location: Middle Tennessee Posts: 17	Thanks for the help. This started at the bottom of the plant and is working its way up. I'll pick up some Ortho today.

August 3, 2016	#4
gorbelly Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania Posts: 1,069	The larger lesions look like classic early blight to me. It's always possible to have more than one issue going on, too.

August 3, 2016	#5
b54red Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 7,068	Just cut off the diseased leaves and keep a good fungicide on them and the problem will be manageable most of the time. Keeping the plant pruned so no leaves are near the ground will help as will pruning to keep good air flow and sunlight to the plant. Bill

August 3, 2016	#6
ginger2778 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10 Posts: 9,283	I'm going with early blight too. The concentric rings and yellow halo, irregular shape, older leaves are the clue. I like liquid copper at the weakest recommended strength on the bottle. Management shouldn't be too hard. I would do a spray every 4 days for 3 times, then every 7-10 days, and after a heavy rain.

August 3, 2016	#8
bower Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Newfoundland, Canada Posts: 6,794	+1 for Early Blight. This crops up on my plants sooner or later every year. I manage it by picking off the bad leaves. I do a round every day and take away anything I see moldy or blighty. And that is enough to keep it from spreading - especially from affecting main stems or fruit, which is a tragedy. One thing I've noticed too, bleach dipped pruners prevent the pruning cuts from turning into Early Blight lesions. My friend is trying Serenade this year in her greenhouse. She sprayed once so far, and feels it was well worth it. Won't be spending as much time grooming the plants or cursing fruit losses.

August 4, 2016	#9
txraddoc Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2014 Location: Middle Tennessee Posts: 17	Thanks for the help everyone! I bought some copper fungicide yesterday. I sprayed it on then it rained!! So, I'll do it again today.

August 6, 2016	#10
b54red Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 7,068	We are forecast to have at least a 50% chance of rain all of next week starting tomorrow so I am going to have to be very vigilant looking out for spot and speck diseases as well as early blight and gray mold. If the forecast holds I'm sure it will be a good bit cooler which could really help with fruit set for fall. Bill