Rock Dust

fortyonenorth · February 13, 2011

I found this website very helpful with regard to remineralization:

http://soilminerals.com/

I actually bought the e-book last fall and, while a bit spendy, it contained a lot of useful information and formulas for interpreting soil test results and calculating the correct proportions of minerals.

In any event, I think it's most useful to look at the full range of minerals required for plant growth and the only way to do this is through a soil test. I use Logan Labs (www.loganlabs.com) because they follow the philosophies of Dr. William Albrecht and a base saturation soil testing methodology. Applying something like Azomite isn't going to hurt, but it's the correct balance that's really critical.

One of the key pieces of information that I learned is that when you achieve the correct balance of minerals you don't have to worry about soil PH - it will naturally fall into the "ideal" range for most vegetables. That was a real revelation because 99% of everything you read limits discussion of mineralization to apply lime to raise PH and sulfur to lower PH. When you really drill-down, that's a vast oversimplification.

February 13, 2011	#14
fortyonenorth Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: NW Indiana Posts: 1,150	I found this website very helpful with regard to remineralization: http://soilminerals.com/ I actually bought the e-book last fall and, while a bit spendy, it contained a lot of useful information and formulas for interpreting soil test results and calculating the correct proportions of minerals. In any event, I think it's most useful to look at the full range of minerals required for plant growth and the only way to do this is through a soil test. I use Logan Labs (www.loganlabs.com) because they follow the philosophies of Dr. William Albrecht and a base saturation soil testing methodology. Applying something like Azomite isn't going to hurt, but it's the correct balance that's really critical. One of the key pieces of information that I learned is that when you achieve the correct balance of minerals you don't have to worry about soil PH - it will naturally fall into the "ideal" range for most vegetables. That was a real revelation because 99% of everything you read limits discussion of mineralization to apply lime to raise PH and sulfur to lower PH. When you really drill-down, that's a vast oversimplification.