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Old January 22, 2009   #16
mcsprint71
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I posted just before I saw your response, Polarface. I agree that there is the odd spot like Septoria leaf spot, but mine rarely start with small circles/spots that then coalesce, rather as yellows that become necrotic in patches (see my 2nd and 3rd images). I'm really grateful for your help.
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Old January 22, 2009   #17
Polar_Lace
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Quote:
mcsprint71 wrote: Polarface


Hey I resembled that remark when I lived in Upstate NY! I get frostbite at 40 degrees!
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Old January 22, 2009   #18
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mcsprint,

Just trying to get a better picture of your problem. Many others here far more experienced than i am. Have read several times that too much water can be as big a problem as too little. Not knowing how much 40 mm was I asked.
Maybe your plants are fine and I'm "all wet" in asking about the watering. With a little luck maybe one of our more knowledgeable members will take a look too. Ami may be right on and its just normal. Definitely difficult trying to diagnose by comparing pictures. Good luck to you.
Len
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Old January 22, 2009   #19
mcsprint71
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Thanks Len. Yes, it really tricky trying to diagnose by pictures. May be several issues. Need to get some samples under a microscope. I have been looking at different tomato problems for several years now, from Northeast India to Melbourne. The only definitive ones have been bacterial wilt and late blight. Neither of those hang about, they just obliterate. not the worst problem I've had though: that prize goes to monkeys. James
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Old January 22, 2009   #20
mcsprint71
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Sorry about that Polar Lace.
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Old January 22, 2009   #21
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mcsprint71 -- I have nothing useful to add here, but I agree with Ami. Looks pretty much like normal aging to me. It seems to me like some plants display yellowing leaves more than others each year and at some point they just can't support healthy growth and they turn brown-ish in spots. But that's just my observation.

Anyway, a hearty welcome to Tomatoville! And good luck with your crop.

Sherry
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Old January 22, 2009   #22
mcsprint71
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Thanks Sherry, that is very useful. Last summer I accepted it was part of the process but it just felt a bit premature this year. I love everything about tomatoes including preserving and cooking with them and whilst I grow a broad range of vegies and fruit, I am most fanatical about tomatoes. So I'm glad I've found a website where others appear to do the same.
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Old January 22, 2009   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcsprint71 View Post
Thanks Sherry, that is very useful. Last summer I accepted it was part of the process but it just felt a bit premature this year. I love everything about tomatoes including preserving and cooking with them and whilst I grow a broad range of vegies and fruit, I am most fanatical about tomatoes. So I'm glad I've found a website where others appear to do the same.
I'd also like to extend a warm welcome to you.

Please make yourself at home and enjoy your time spent here among fellow Tomatovillians.
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Old January 23, 2009   #24
dice
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Here is a page on nutrient deficiencies with pictures:

http://4e.plantphys.net/article.php?ch=5&id=289

(A lot of them look very similar, so reading the text for
other indicators is recommended, plus it is a generally
informative document.)

Note that it is not always a shortage of the mineral that
the plant sees as deficient that is the problem. It can
also be an oversupply of some other mineral that competes
with what the plant is not getting enough of for chemical
binding sites in the soil or on the roots. The TotalGro (soluble
commercial fertilizer vendor) web site has some information on
this:

http://www.totalgro.com/concepts.htm
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Last edited by dice; January 25, 2009 at 06:03 AM. Reason: detail
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Old January 24, 2009   #25
mcsprint71
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Thanks Dice. Some interesting websites there. Mineral balancing is very important but as I am renting the house I live in and I would need to get two separate soil tests done (A$120 each), I can't see the value just yet. I have done this at a farm level using Albrecht type mineral balancing and designed a complete organic soil management program. Would love to do it for the garden, but I'll wait until I own a patch first. Thanks again. James
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Old January 24, 2009   #26
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James, Get: RAPITEST SOIL TEST KIT, at $16.99 you can't get it any cheaper, I think.....
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Old January 25, 2009   #27
mcsprint71
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Just as important (if not more) is the Calcium:Magnesium ratio. Nitrogen is so unstable that measuring it is not very reliable. thanks again,
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Old January 25, 2009   #28
dice
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I was wondering about sulfur: molybdenum (since you use
potassium sulfate, and the symptoms do look a bit like
the molybdenum deficiency pictures). I do not know where
all of the excess sulfur could have come from, though.
Plants do not need much molybdenum, but they do need
a little.

And of course mineral deficiency is not the only possible
cause. But it really looks more like that to me than like
a bacterial/fungal/bug_damage problem. I suppose a plant
tissue test is comparable to the cost of a soil test.
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Old January 27, 2009   #29
mcsprint71
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thanks for that Dice. i write this as we are embarking on a heatwave, that if comes to fruition, will be the hottest in over 100 years i.e. 38c, three days of 40C and then 41C. Full on. I contacted Dept Ag in Melbourne a few days ago about tissue tests and they still haven't replied. Public holiday yesterday so I'll grant them some leniency.
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