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Old January 22, 2017   #46
Worth1
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Default CFL Blinking Syndrome.

CFL Blinking Syndrome.

Pulled this off instructibles some time ago the bulb was driving me nuts as to why it was happening.
There ares ways to fix this but in my opinion not worth the trouble.
You have to solder a resistor across the conductors on the bulb.
Not gonna happen.

Quote.
"When a compact fluorescent light bulb is being controlled by an illuminated wall switch, sometimes the CFL bulb will flash when the switch is off. This flashing is very noticeable when it's dark (a bedroom at night for example).

If you have a CFL bulb installed in an illuminated wall switch (these are switches that are lit when in the off position), this instructable can help stop the flashing.

First, why does the CFL bulb flash? Many times this is due to the circuit inside the CFL charging up, even when the bulb is off. This happens many times when the CFL bulb is being controlled by an illuminated wall switch, because the wall switch uses the CFL bulb itself as neutral. When the wall switch is on, the CFL bulb gets full line voltage. When the wall switch is off, the CFL bulb is the neutral for the light of the wall switch, causing a tiny current to flow through the CFL bulb.

This tiny current charges up the capacitor in the CFL bulb, until it releases it's energy. This cycle can repeat once every few seconds."
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Old January 22, 2017   #47
Gerardo
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keep it coming W
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Old January 22, 2017   #48
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I have to go to my weekend electrical project now and possibly install a reduced pressure assembly for a guy and his lawn sprinkler system.
Lets all hope I dont get electrocuted or even drown.

Worth
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Old January 22, 2017   #49
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Just got back installed the Reduced Pressure Assembly and ran underground wire in the conduit we ran last weekend.
This is for his sewer pump and high water alarm light.
No fires electrocution or drowning.
I can't believe they have wires like this but that is the way it is.
I'm connecting them to a GFCI next Sunday.
Nice place.
Worth
IMG_20170122_22816.jpg

IMG_20170122_32235.jpg

Last edited by Worth1; January 23, 2017 at 06:12 AM. Reason: Reduced
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Old January 23, 2017   #50
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A non electrical side note.
The Reduced Pressure Assembly is there so if the pressure on the street/supply side is lower than the house side it dumps water out the bottom.
This way contaminants don't get into the water supply if a main breaks therefor siphoning lord knows what back into the drinking water.
His other one froze and busted.
This was a costly 300 some odd dollar mistake.
I didn't do all of the pipe fitting it was already there.

Worth
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Old January 23, 2017   #51
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Where do you guy's and gal's that are interested want to go next?
Wiring circuits diagrams?
Questions?
Worth
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Old January 23, 2017   #52
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I have a little touch meter that glows when a wire or outlet is hot. When I replaced my water heater, I flipped off the breaker, but the meter said the wire was still hot. I know it's the right breaker; it's a fairly new mobile home and everything is marked well. I flipped off the main, and then the meter didn't glow any more. Why was it glowing when the breaker was off?
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Old January 23, 2017   #53
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We have a mobile home too. Until I rewired the house, finding the right breaker wasn't that easy. Nothing was marked at the breaker box. The wiring had to be replaced, so I marked which breaker goes to where it goes. All of the wiring is 110.

I have never ran 220 wiring. We got a new 220 clothes dryer given to us. However, our house has propane ran to the kitchen stove and clothes dryer - no 220. Being that we have always used a clothesline, I'm not sure if we want to put the new dryer in, but if we choose to - is running 220 like running 110? It's also possible to trade the new 220 dryer in on a propane one.
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Old January 23, 2017   #54
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Did you measure from the panel to the dryer? 220 wire is expensive, and the Menards I shop at sells it in 25, 50 & 100 ft sections. I have wanted to upgrade a window ac outlet to 220, but the cost of the wire has kept me from doing so.
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Old January 23, 2017   #55
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After rough measuring, we would have to buy 50'. We would use around 30' of it.

Edit http://www.homedepot.com/p/Romex-50-...8422/202316239

Last edited by AlittleSalt; January 23, 2017 at 12:31 PM.
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Old January 23, 2017   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Worth1 View Post
Where do you guy's and gal's that are interested want to go next?
Wiring circuits diagrams?
Questions?
Why not concentrate on attaching a fixture to a circuit. Screws, screw color, bayonets, stripping and forming a hook, pigtails, splices & wire nuts, dressing the wire in the box.

Use akgardengirl's question about changing a switch. Which replacement to select, how to pull the switch out of the box, how to check for hot, disconnect and reconnect.

For an extra topic, what's that red wire doing in the box? Why does this white wire have black marker on the last couple inches? Outlets in a daisy chain.

Lots and lots to deal with.
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Old January 23, 2017   #57
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When I had a pole put in for my greenhouse, the electric company said I had to have the service entrance built, the thing that attaches to the pole outside. Then they gave me their own spec sheet about the way it had to be constructed, and told me to hire a local electrician.

From what I understand, every utility company has their own precise specs about the service entrance. It reminds me a lot of the practice of law and the trade protectionism involved. Very few things are hand-built built one at a time in our modern world. The best reason to keep it that way is to make a good job for someone. The service entrance I paid $1,500 for to a local guy to build would have been $300 if it was made in China, or at least assembled there. I'm sure the parts my local guy used were Chinese. Is there any practical reason that things are done the way they are?
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Old January 23, 2017   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cole_Robbie View Post
I have a little touch meter that glows when a wire or outlet is hot. When I replaced my water heater, I flipped off the breaker, but the meter said the wire was still hot. I know it's the right breaker; it's a fairly new mobile home and everything is marked well. I flipped off the main, and then the meter didn't glow any more. Why was it glowing when the breaker was off?
More than likely it was labeled wrong or one leg was still hot.
Was it a 240 breaker or two one 120 breaker sstacked.
I have seen this.
A 240 breaker takes up two spaces.
All the reason to have a volt meter.
It could even possibley been induced voltage.
I dont trust those light sticks.
Worth

Last edited by Worth1; January 23, 2017 at 01:17 PM.
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Old January 23, 2017   #59
Worth1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cole_Robbie View Post
When I had a pole put in for my greenhouse, the electric company said I had to have the service entrance built, the thing that attaches to the pole outside. Then they gave me their own spec sheet about the way it had to be constructed, and told me to hire a local electrician.

From what I understand, every utility company has their own precise specs about the service entrance. It reminds me a lot of the practice of law and the trade protectionism involved. Very few things are hand-built built one at a time in our modern world. The best reason to keep it that way is to make a good job for someone. The service entrance I paid $1,500 for to a local guy to build would have been $300 if it was made in China, or at least assembled there. I'm sure the parts my local guy used were Chinese. Is there any practical reason that things are done the way they are?
Yes and no.
Sometimes it depends on what latest version of the NEC They adopt and the authority having jurisdiction.
Nothing is law until it is adopted.
Worth

Last edited by Worth1; January 23, 2017 at 01:24 PM.
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Old January 23, 2017   #60
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Default Pool,pump,well,ground bonding.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Worth1 View Post
Where do you guy's and gal's that are interested want to go next?
Wiring circuits diagrams?
Questions?
Worth
I am sure all new installations are up to snuff in your locales but here is a insight regarding water/electricity and older systems.All pool lighting in Fl has to be 12volt(via a transformer)Scary stuff. Also Mike Holt .com has really good info if you want.

http://cullenelectriccincinnati.com/...g-pool-wiring/
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