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Old February 9, 2010   #16
amideutch
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I've been using CowPots the last couple years and last year tried the DotPots as well and was very happy with them. I will be using DotPots exclusively this year. And yes, the absence of transplant shock has been my primary motivator in using these type of pots. Ami
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Old February 9, 2010   #17
Mjdtexan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amideutch View Post
I've been using CowPots the last couple years and last year tried the DotPots as well and was very happy with them. I will be using DotPots exclusively this year. And yes, the absence of transplant shock has been my primary motivator in using these type of pots. Ami
Where are you buying DotPots at? Are starting your seeds in DotPots?
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Old February 9, 2010   #18
JulieTA
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I ordered my Dot Pots from Johnny's Seeds--look under organic supplies. I ordered the large quantity (actually two cases of them), so my per pot cost was 7.7 cents.

I start all of my seeds in 128-cell trays, then transplant into Dot Pots. I'm gearing up to start the first round of transplanting tomorrow...about 3000 seedlings, with more to come. Yikes!

Hope that helps!
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Old February 9, 2010   #19
Mjdtexan
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I ordered my Dot Pots from Johnny's Seeds--look under organic supplies. I ordered the large quantity (actually two cases of them), so my per pot cost was 7.7 cents.

I start all of my seeds in 128-cell trays, then transplant into Dot Pots. I'm gearing up to start the first round of transplanting tomorrow...about 3000 seedlings, with more to come. Yikes!

Hope that helps!
It did, thank you. That is what I was after was the final cost of them. Thank You.

Mike D.
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Old February 10, 2010   #20
Yeager31
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Do the DotPots break down better than the straight peat pots? The reason I ask is that the peat pots I planted last year didn't seem to break down and were inhibiting the plants. Ended up digging them up, tearing away the pots, and replanting. Thanks, Anthony
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Old February 10, 2010   #21
Blueaussi
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I have always broken up my peat pots before planting, and pulled the net off any peat pellets. They do not decompose rapidly. On the other hoof, I tried some cow pots last year, and they decomposed very nicely. I wish the cow pots weren't so expensive.
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Old February 10, 2010   #22
JulieTA
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I also wish the cowpots weren't so pricey...I'd love to use them for my biz, but I just can't afford them.

Dot pots break down really well for me--but I also rarely have problems with peat pots.
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Old February 16, 2010   #23
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After much research, I ended up staying with the 10 oz, Solo opaque cups. I drill a 3/8" hole in them and label with a sharpie...they take up more room than the square ones, but at 3 cents each, I saved some $$

Bought a 4cubic foot bag of Perlite and one of Vermiculite and a 3.8 cubic foot of Pro-Mix this weekend. All I need now is a truck load of compost and the month of February to fly by and I'm ready to get my hands dirty!

Huntoften,
Could you tell me where you purchase Promix, I just moved here from Dallas and haven't seen it at the local Smithville stores or HD or Loews
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Old February 16, 2010   #24
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I bought it at Soil Service on Troost
816-333-3232is their number. It's a bit of a drive from Smithville, but they have what you need. They also sell perlite and vermiculite in the 4cu ft. bundles if you make your own potting mix like I do. Very good people to work with.
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Old April 23, 2010   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amideutch View Post
I've been using CowPots the last couple years and last year tried the DotPots as well and was very happy with them. I will be using DotPots exclusively this year. And yes, the absence of transplant shock has been my primary motivator in using these type of pots. Ami
Same here...using Dot Pots for 'potting up' tomatoes and peppers as well...so far, so good. Just be careful with watering...I am going to try them to give myself a 'head start' with cukes, melons, and squash...
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Old August 27, 2010   #26
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Or, if you have spare time in the winter, you could build your own for a couple cents per thousand:

Take those Solo/Dixie cups you use, fill one (or more, depending on how many people are involved in the project) with plaster of paris. When it sets up thoroughly, remove the plaster plug, and use it as a mold to make newspaperpots. Many people making newspaper pots say they stick together just fine, but I have usually mixed a thin 'wallpaper paste' (1C sugar, 1C flour, and about a gallon or more of water) to act as an all natural glue. I make mine with enough newspaper to barely cover the bottom. When transplanting time comes, I peel off the bottom, tearing up the side a little (to encourage the roots to grow down) and stick 'em in the ground. Simple, cheap. and environmental.
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Old November 7, 2010   #27
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Just wondering if anyone has tried the Smithers-Oasis Wedge trays? Like Julie, I will be starting well over 3,000 seedlings and room is a concern.

About three weeks ago, I sowed some toms in Park Seed's Bio-dome inserts after placing them in a Speedling tray. The things work great - the plants are only about an inch tall but already have two sets of leaves. If the Wedges work as well, they will be a lot less expensive - $70 + shipping for over 4,000 cells.

I did find a place that sells one tray at a time so I figure I can run a test grow to see how they work.

Mike
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Old December 20, 2010   #28
JackE
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We don't sell seedlings - just produce them for our own use. Mostly just tomatoes and peppers.

We use Jiffy round 2X2 peat pots - very reasonable in a case of 4000. We also get plastic trays from Jiffy, exactly the right size to accommodate 50 2"X2" pots. The trays have no drain holes, which allows the pots to sit in about 1/2" of water all the time, which prevents dry-out problems.

We germinate the seed in a heated room, transplant the seedlings at cotlyedon stage into the peat pots and move them to the greenhouse where the thermostat is set at 45 degrees. In nice weather we put them out in full sun. We fertilize our seedlings regularly with 20-10-20 and use Mircale-Gro potting mix - which has a lot of irritating sticks in it, but still the best we've found.

When we transplant, at about six weeks, we tear the bottoms out of the peat pots to let the roots out.

For many years, we used Prop-A-Matic 40 cell trays with the reservoir/osmosis water system, but the peat pots work better. Last year was our first and we are pleased with them. But they did not work for collards - they didn't decompose in the cooler soil and the collard plants got root-bound. We lost a 1000 plant crop. For toms and peppers though, it's the only way to go.

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