Information and discussion regarding garden diseases, insects and other unwelcome critters.
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May 19, 2016 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Frisco Texas
Posts: 390
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need help identifying leaf damage
Is this a deficiency of something? Or a pest problem....
It seems to only be a problem toward the bottom of the plants and it seems to be on all of the varieties I have. leafdisease.jpg |
May 19, 2016 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 5,922
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Looks more like sun scald to me. Cause is exposure to full sun before plants are fully hardened off. They will recover. Just remove damaged foliage
KarenO |
May 20, 2016 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Romania/Germany , z 4-6
Posts: 1,582
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It's imo not sun scald which is more white than yellow.
One spot is probably Early blight (not a very bad disease usually, but depends on region). Also look under the leaves for spider mites (use a magnifier, they can be rather invisible, especially young). If you grow outside some copper fungicide is pretty much necessary, unless your region is really dry. Of course, you can live with some disease, production will take a hit, but could still be ok. Experience will tell you what you can get away with in your garden. |
May 20, 2016 | #4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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Agree with fungal. The concentric rings show it to be early blight on the one large brown then yellow region.
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May 20, 2016 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Frisco Texas
Posts: 390
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May 20, 2016 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Den of Drunken Fools
Posts: 38,539
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Amputate all infected leaves ASAP.
Worth |
May 20, 2016 | #7 |
BANNED FOR LIFE
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 13,333
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Ozone, I had early blight on my potatoes this year. It looked a lot like your leaves.
One question, did the cuttings come from a leaf section? Sometimes the leaf part turns colors when the rest of the plant looks fine. |
May 20, 2016 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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Yes. Use at the weakest recommended mix for tomatoes, after you have trimmed off all affected leaves, and bagged them up, removed from garden. Note: stronger is not better with copper fungicide, it can cause new growth to curl and stunt and it takes 3 weeks for the plant to recover. It should have a blue color in the tank, but if your leaves have blue on them, it is too strong.
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May 20, 2016 | #9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Frisco Texas
Posts: 390
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I will remove all the affected leaves tonight and bag it for the rubbish container. Is this related to the excessive rain we have had recently?
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May 20, 2016 | #10 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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May 21, 2016 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2008
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 1,212
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Agree with early blight and leaf removal. I've been using a combination spray of copper and mancozeb. It appears to me that it works in a similar way to daconil...coating the leaf surface so blights, etc can't. So far, pretty effective this year.
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