Replacing handles and other tips.

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by bower

My friend made a rolling dibbler for the farm similar to this one:
http://www.communityagadvisors.com/make-multi-dibbler/

We used it to roughly mark out the beds for garlic but you still need a hand dibbler to get the right depth. It is just a guide, really, so the spacing is even on a long row.

I saw a rolling one on line for sale that was on a big wheel.
You could remove the ones you wanted and space them out accordingly.
Upon closer inspection it looks like they cut the wheel out of OSB or some other plywood.
AND they want $199.99 for it.

In my humble opinion if you were to make a rolling one the spikes need to be set at an angle so when they come out of the soil the dont tear it up.
The other option is to make them shorter and the angle on the spike be steeper and intersecting with the wheel.
This angle would be determined by the radius of the wheel me thinks.
This is how gears are made.

Worth

[JRinPA]

Worth you are thinking of the deluxe version. That retails for $299 instead of $199.

I wish I had enough ground to plant to require a rolling dibbler.

[bower]

Originally Posted by JRinPA

Worth you are thinking of the deluxe version. That retails for $299 instead of $199.

I wish I had enough ground to plant to require a rolling dibbler.

Yeah JR, it is pretty awe inspiring to me to see how my friends work at the farm. You really appreciate the simple machines that make life easier at this scale.

I looked at seeders too on the google - they are crazy expensive but I can well imagine they are worth it, after seeding 50 or 100 foot row by hand. Still the ones that get good reviews are the most expensive !! Even the ones that don't work are not cheap.

[Worth1]

Might draw up plans and make a prototype plus jigs to see how much time and cost.
It might be a worth while endeavor.

This old school stuff seems to be catching on.

Worth

[bower]

Originally Posted by Worth1

Might draw up plans and make a prototype plus jigs to see how much time and cost.
It might be a worth while endeavor.

This old school stuff seems to be catching on.

Worth

Here is one made all of wood, kind of interesting, don't know how the angle of the slats (not completely smooth round like the pipe) would feed into the question you raised above about angle of entry.
http://www.highmowingseeds.com/The-Rolling-Dibbler.html

Worth, besides the 'small farm' niche, I bet you could make a 'gardener's' model half the size or less rolling drum, and I bet there are lots of people would like to have that 'old school' tool for their garden.
It's a quick way to get your rows neat and straight - quicker than staking a line.

[Hellmanns]

Back in the 60's, my uncle, Jack worked for an agency that was in charge of enforcing the tobacco acreage allotment for tobacco farmers. Each farm, depending on size could only grow a determined acreage. So, once a year, armed with a tape measure, they would visit all of the farms in the county and measure the tobacco fields. Anything over the allowed allotment was chopped down on the spot.

It was quite the job in the heat of summer to deal with the tape measure method of measuring the fields. Jack came up with the idea of a wheel on a stick that they could push around a field to get the measurements. He made a drawing of the device and submitted it for a patent. The rest is history.

[Worth1]

I struck gold today I found this old shovel look where it is made.
Worth
IMG_20160223_58908.jpg

IMG_20160223_49143.jpg

[Hellmanns]

I like the good ones too, and pick up the vintage closed back shovels or heads every time I come across one. A head can be had for a buck generally, and a good one with a handle for $10-$12. A good shovel is a pleasure to use, and will last a lifetime with a little care.

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by Hellmanns

I like the good ones too, and pick up the vintage closed back shovels or heads every time I come across one. A head can be had for a buck generally, and a good one with a handle for $10-$12. A good shovel is a pleasure to use, and will last a lifetime with a little care.

Hellmanns there is a guy on Youtube begging people to get away from being a throw away society.
He also talks about hoe people should take pride in their work and be willing to put their name on everything they do.
This is how I am.

Worth

[Hellmanns]

The "throw away" society can never work! I always buy quality, most often these days that means vintage American made. I do most of my shopping at peddlers malls, and flea markets. That's where the real bargains are to be had, not Walmart..

[luigiwu]

Worth, what would you recommend to coat the blades of garden shears so they won't rust?

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by luigiwu

Worth, what would you recommend to coat the blades of garden shears so they won't rust?

Mineral oil.
WD-40 is a water displacer not a rust inhibitor and is a poor lubricant.

They have a spray product they sell called CRC-226 that is a light weight food and electrical grade miner oil.

I buy pharmaceutical grade at the store and mix a little kerosene with it.
Honing oil is also mineral oil.

Best oil in the world.

Worth.

[luigiwu]

Thanks worth, seems like you can buy mineral oil in the laxative aisle at the drugstore? or mineral oil for oiling butcher blocks work as well?

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by luigiwu

Thanks worth, seems like you can buy mineral oil in the laxative aisle at the drugstore? or mineral oil for oiling butcher blocks work as well?

Both are fine and the laxative is the one I use it is thick so I thin it out a little for a spray bottle.

When I ran mills in a cabinet shop I used 30 Wt oil and kerosene for honing and wiping every thing down at night.
The Kerosene evaporates and leaves the oil behind.
Worth

[bower]

I use mineral oil for chain oil in the chain saw.
Always hated to see blobs of that pink stuff around in the woods.