New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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March 4, 2006 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 27
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Potting up - Size, depth question
I've got a pile of seedlings going... started on Feb 4 in a 72cell flat, and some potted up into ~3.5" plastic cups.
Problem now is, they're a bit leggy (some are about 7" tall), but it's still a touch too chilly to be putting them outside (nevermind I've not hardened off yet). I'm thinking about getting tall skinny (4" or thereabouts) water bottles, cutting the tops off, and burying my leggy seedlings within. Are there any other brilliant ideas for handling this situation? I have some larger pots, but the depth seems to be the important thing at the moment... and to plant deep enough, the pots are far too large. Thanks.... |
March 4, 2006 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: cincinnati, oh
Posts: 492
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You might be able to keep them from getting much leggier by putting a small housefan on them (only 1-2 hrs at a time to start). the constant movement help them get thicker and theyll be tougher and easier to harden off. good luck!
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March 4, 2006 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Massachusetts 6a/b
Posts: 29
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When I first started growing tomatoes from seed, I started them way too early [also didn't have enough lighting]. So I cut off the tops, stuck them in water cups, and let them grow new roots. The 'new' plants were soon repotted. They were healthy, lush & perfect when it was finally warm enough to start hardening them off for the garden.
Still have to fight that start too early urge |
March 4, 2006 | #4 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Massachusetts 6a/b
Posts: 29
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Quote:
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March 4, 2006 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: 6a SW Ohio
Posts: 135
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Tell me more about this cut-off-their-heads method? You just cut off the =entire= leafy top? Just the top, or at the soil line? And then stick the leafy part into a cup of water? No dip into rooting stuff or anything like that?
I'm going to have to do this with an extra plant this year for sure! Val |
March 4, 2006 | #6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: New Orleans, LA
Posts: 27
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Well, luckily I'm not THAT early... I'm in New Orleans, and the temps during the day have been in the 70's since last week, with nights dipping to 55. I imagine our very mild winter (no frost this year) is about over. I'm anticipating summertime in about 4 weeks.
I could probably put them out now, really, but I'm also waiting 'til I can get some compost to top up my containers. |
March 5, 2006 | #7 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Massachusetts 6a/b
Posts: 29
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Quote:
Stuck the top in a cup of water with a very tiny pinch of the blue stuff; put the cup under the lights & watched the water level. Figured I had nothing to lose, and was delighted when I saw tremendous root growth. I continued watching the decapitated giraffes too, but discarded most of them come planting time as the 'new' plants were so much healthier looking. |
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March 6, 2006 | #8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: NJ Bayshore
Posts: 3,848
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I have read about and applied this method:
Pot seeds into peat pots - After 2nd set of leaves transplant into bigger conatiner (aka 12-16 ounce beer cup) Fill it only half-way ; plant seedling - As seedling reaches for light ; add soil to the cup so roots grow along the way up ~ I do not have grow lights - and its worked well for me ~ Tom
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My green thumb came only as a result of the mistakes I made while learning to see things from the plant's point of view. ~ H. Fred Ale |
March 6, 2006 | #9 |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
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If you have such large leggy plants and plant out time is about a month or more away take cuttings, don't just cut off the top.
Take a sucker cutting, that's the lateral branch that comes out between two other branches, and stick it into good mix. The cutting should be maybe 3-5 inches long and trim off the leaves on the lower part. Don't stick it in water b'c the roots just have to adapt to a solid matrix again when taken from water to solid mix. When I've had critter damage in the field I just take a sucker and shove it down into the soil next to the damaged plant, build a wee moat around it and keep that filled with water until I see new growth. No problem.
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Carolyn |
March 14, 2006 | #10 |
SPLATT™ Coordinator
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Florence, SC
Posts: 502
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Carolyn, I love that idea for rooting a lateral branch next to a damaged plant. I must remember it (and the "wee moat" too )
Jennifer |
March 17, 2006 | #11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 162
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This may be a bit off topic, but I take the suckers off of plants that for one reason or another I need more of mid season and root them. If you've got a long growing season, it's much easier than starting from seed for a fall crop.
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