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Old July 22, 2006   #1
matermama
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Default calling all tomato help

Hi Everyone
I hope this is the right place to post a question on tomato problems , it isn't really a bug or a disease.
well my ph is high, i overloved my plants , I see signs of vitamin deifincys.
I was wondering what anyone can suggest.
i thought about transplanting them to the front of the house ,the tomaot out their are doing great.
Can i transplant with fruit on the plants ??
anything i can add to the soil to lower the ph .
thanks
sue
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Old July 22, 2006   #2
dcarch
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What makes you think that you have high PH?

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Old July 22, 2006   #3
kimpossible
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Lime will help with the pH ...
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Old July 22, 2006   #4
matermama
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Dcarch, i did a soil sample about Aril from a lab,I never thought to ask about it ,someone told me it was good .later I did read that tomato s like about 6.5??
I think i have lime somewhere in my barn,
best
sue
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Old July 22, 2006   #5
Suze
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Sue, don't move your tomato plants with fruit on them.

What did the lab that tested your soil sample have to say? There's usually a report and such.

Tomatoes will actually tolerate a fairly wide range of ph, so I wouldn't be too hasty in adding lime.

Perhaps there's another reason other than ph that the plants aren't doing well? You say you see signs of vitamin deficiencies, could you be more specific??
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Old July 22, 2006   #6
matermama
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Hmmm as i was looking for the HW i noticed that only the three plants on the right sides of two beds are actually looking poorly??
The purple cherokee and the Mortgage Lifters ,actually one of teh ML is not a ML it is a cherry huh must have marked that one wrong :wink: , the cherokee have purple viens an curled leaves. The ML have bottom yellow leaves and some purple viens and curling too,along with stunted growth .
i have my report on file in a document ,maybe i could post it ?.
The calcuim is at 74% .
I did use treated lumber to make the beds unknowing? my FIL made them for me.
I can't rember what to add for lowering the ph if that is the problen? Suze what else can this be?
DOn't you think it is funny that only t he plants on the right are effected?? have you heard of this before /?
Hope i m not boreing you :wink: i would love to get this soved if i could
thansk SUze
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Old July 22, 2006   #7
PaulF
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First of all, high pH for tomatoes would be in the 8.0 or higher range. At 8.2 or higher, your soil would need elemental sulfur or some related sulfur compound to decrease the pH. Second, as stated above, it's not a good idea to transplant tomatoes with fruit on them .... the stress would probably kill them completely. Third, if there is a problem on one end of the row or on one side of each plant (I'm not sure what you mean) I would suspect an environmental problem. Could be chemical drift or something of that nature. A soil problem would effect the whole plant equally as would a disease such as wilt or leaf curl etc. I'm not sure about treated lumber and its effect.

A soil test would not only give you pH and nutrient levels, the lab should include recommendations for good growth conditions.

Hope that helps a bit.
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Old July 22, 2006   #8
rsg2001
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I agree that you shouldn't move the tomato plant with tomatoes on it. I figure purple veins are a phosphorous deficiency. I saw that happening on Eva Purple Ball in my garden in containers. I have been spraying with a foliar fish spray and it seems to be helping. The new growth looks healthier.
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Old July 22, 2006   #9
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Sue, try to copy and paste the text from your soil analysis report, then paste it into a message here; see if that works.

I would also suggest that you have a look at the Tomato Problem Solver sticky thread in the Pest and Disease forum to find websites that will help you to identify possible nutrient deficiencies or diseases. It is just so hard to diagnose problems online, especially without any pictures.

In the meantime, it certainly wouldn't hurt to give your plants a foliar feed with seaweed and/or fish emulsion if you suspect a deficiency.
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Old July 23, 2006   #10
michael johnson
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I think you will be better off not moving the plants at all-instead just treat them with a liquid feed -probably a good seaweed juice feed which has all the trace elements in it, plus add a little epsom salts for good measure, it seems from your description there is a chemical lock up in the main stem and purple veins on yellowing leaves usualy indicates something along those lines. sometimes a little iron deficiancy also.

Lime- be very carefull what type of lime you use -if any, as some kinds of lime are not suitable, just common standard garden lime or preferably Dolomite lime if you can get it.

Once you can get the juices flowing in the stem again, a little light nitrogen feed often helps to boost things along.
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Old July 23, 2006   #11
matermama
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ok thanks everyone , I think the one side of the beds where the plants are being effected could be to wet?
My squash are really in damp soil from some rain we had and are soggy logged looking
. Hmmm my DD has a camera she just got and it takes digital pics we are giong to try and figure it out.
I only wish i was more comp savvy,
Has anyone heard of vinager added to help lower ph? just curious :wink:
the lab never sent any recommmeddations which i thought was odd, my DH said they usually add comments? maybe i just didn't get a good lab?
Our extension office doesn't do it anymore .
I will keep you inforemed and our progress with the plants and the pics
thanks again everyone for your help
best
sue
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Old July 24, 2006   #12
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My ph is 7.5 and it will stay that way for quite sometime. My plants did have a nutrient lock-up happeneing, but I sprayed them Earth Juice Microblast, to help them get their nutrients. It takes sometime to lower ph and it won't happen in a season, so it's not worth doing right now. Just feed the foliarly for now, and you will probably be okay. The ones that have stunted growth may not pull out of that, but may still give you some fruit. Just sit tight, as hard as it may be, for the season and then get to work on it for next year.

Also, get a soil test from a good reputable company. I have heard of people getting bad results and trying to correct a problemt hey never had.
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Old July 24, 2006   #13
matermama
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thanks kenya,
yes i have heard it can take awhile to reduce Ph i am having trouble finding a fish emulsion spray , i might have to go online but i wonder with shipping would it get here in time?
You say you use Earth JUice ? huh sounds good .
thanks for all the help
some of the tomtos are looking abit on the brighter side
sue
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Old July 24, 2006   #14
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The most common foliar feeding emulsions:

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Old July 24, 2006   #15
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On the point that you did not get any recommendations from your soil lab about pH, it is possible that the lab did not feel that the pH was sufficiently out of range that corrective measures would be necessary. Or that their understadning of tomato plants is not right, there are a range of opinions about pH in the soil and how correctable it really is.

Foliar feeding is a very effective way around the whole host of soil issues and a good cultural practice under most conditions anyway.
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