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Old February 12, 2009   #31
geeboss
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I hear ya Ray, Pay more get less.....Espoma has their own idea of a stimulus package for their business. LOL

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Old February 12, 2009   #32
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I used Bio-Tone Starter Plus last season. I incorporated about a cup of the Bio-Tone to a 4 gallon bucket of Pro-Mix (not BX). I didn't use this for seed starting, I used this mix when I potted up the seedlings to individual cups.

This was used for most of my transplants, but for my control (not scientific by any means), I used some peppers, Jalapeños I believe without checking my notes. I used plain Pro-Mix on the healthiest seedlings (4) and the Bio-Tone Starter Plus mix on the three weaklings (3). The weak ones would have gone to compost heaven in any other garden season. By the time they were hardened off the weaklings were 50% larger in overall height and stem thickness, and were a much darker, healthier green color.

This year I plan to incorporate the Starter Plus in all the mix I use for potting up. I'll probably increase the volume of Starter Plus to 2 cups per 4 gallons of Pro-Mix.
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Old February 13, 2009   #33
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This thread is indeed informative. I know Light Warrior is a fine seed starting medium, as I have used it for years.
But it is no longer available locally.
I was going to switch to Miracle Grow seed starting mix from our Lowes,
(but now viewing this thread) I don’t know what to do.
I guess my question is: How important is a Mycorrhizae enhanced medium for seedlings versus availability and cost?
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Old February 13, 2009   #34
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Simmran1,

A 5 pound bag of biostarter plus is around 10.00. If you can buy it locally, you would not have to pay shipping. Not a bad trade off. I am new to mycorrhizae use, so I can't comment on the cost thing.
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Old February 13, 2009   #35
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PDF on Tryton BioStarter plus Silical

Another One:
Evaluation Of Bio-Start™ Soil Conditioners For Control Of Sclerotia Of Ciborinia Camelliae

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Old February 13, 2009   #36
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OK, for you folks in Texas I came across a company the carries some very interesting products. They sell there products locally in the Houston area and do not do online ordering. The one product of special interest is "MicroGro AF W.D." and "MicroGro Granular" plus they have some interesting Bio ferts. Heres the Link. Ami
http://www.sanjacorganic.com/horticultural.htm
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Old February 13, 2009   #37
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Thanks for the link. I usually go to Houston area a few times a year. I will have to make a stop when I am there.
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Old February 13, 2009   #38
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It's not economical for me to drive there. Reason: Driving directions to Houston, TX, 257 mi – about 4 hours 1 min. By road; NOT as the crow flies. Umm... just one way. I have no need to go that way at all.

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Old February 14, 2009   #39
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I have need, as my family lives there, otherwise, I would not go to Houston.
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Old February 17, 2009   #40
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Quote:
But if this stuff is all about improving/maximizing soil microbes
beneficial to the root system, how does it work as a foliar spray?
The research on this use of biocontrol organisms is very thin.
There are a few identified strains of bacteria and fungi that
will attack pathogenic foliage diseases, but whether any
particular commercial biocontrol will work for this is an
open question. Most of the existing research (that we have
reports for) was focused on biocontrols that will control bugs
that prey on foliage (spider mites, larvae, etc), not on
biocontrols for fungal or bacterial foliage disease.

I would certainly doubt that fungal mycorhizzae that
natively inhabit root systems are going to provide much
competition for foliage disease when sprayed on the foliage,
because foliage is not their natural environment. Beneficial
bacteria, like that used in Actinovate, on the other hand,
can probably adapt to more varied environments than
mycorhizzae. There may be fungal competitors (like
various trichoderma species) as well for chronic foliage
diseases that can and do survive on the leaves of plants.
There is so little peer-reviewed, reproducible research on it,
however, that I would suspect any claims that foliar spraying
of some biocontrol product is definitely going to help
the plant (unless the problem that one is trying to control is
some bug infestation, where there has been more work done).

Work on this in the scientific community continues, though.
Here is an abstract of a paper on biological control of
cucumber diseases, for example:

http://www.actahort.org/members/show...knrarnr=608_28

A good overview of plant pathogen biocontrol research:

http://www.entomology.wisc.edu/mbcn/fea303.html
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Last edited by dice; February 17, 2009 at 03:51 PM. Reason: readability
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Old February 17, 2009   #41
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If you are going to use mycorrhiza stay away from high phosphate ferts such as Tomato Tone as it will make the mycorrhiza in effective. You shouldn't use anything with a "P" higher that 4. Ami
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Old February 17, 2009   #42
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Espoma has a 5-3-3 with micros that I am going to use this summer in con★★★★★★★★ with my myco.
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Old February 18, 2009   #43
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Michael- Which Espoma product is that? I can no longer find a local source for Tomato-tone and have had to switch to Garden-tone, so I'm willing to try (or try to find) another product.

Elizabeth
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Old February 18, 2009   #44
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For local source for Tomato Tone, check your local Kmart, hardware store and plant nurseries. Kmart may be able to order some in for you.

George
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Old February 18, 2009   #45
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Elizabeth,

Michael is referring to Plant Tone.
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