New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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November 2, 2006 | #1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 250
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CAROLYNS LOGIC RE: TRANSPLANT
Carolyn had a GREAT little blurb about why its important to start tomato/pepper seeds in a small container, and move them to progressivly larger containers and at what times these moves are best done. Had something to do with root structure and growth. Does anyone have a link to this? Thanx in advance.
Bluelytes@yahoo.com |
November 3, 2006 | #2 |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
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Carolyn had a GREAT little blurb about why its important to start tomato/pepper seeds in a small container, and move them to progressivly larger containers and at what times these moves are best done. Had something to do with root structure and growth. Does anyone have a link to this? Thanx in advance.
It must have been a different Carolyn, , b'c I do NOT advocate potting up and have never said so and won't. I advocate starting seeds in a seed pan or professional 20 row insert if you grow a lot, then transplanting ONCE to plastic cells that are about 2 in, about 32 to the standard nursery tray when the small seedlings are anywhere's from 1-2 inches tall. And I then grow them on to outside size of about 6-9 incnhes tall in those same 2 inch cells. Yes, they become rootbound, which is exactly what I want. I think what you're thing of is the fact that many believe and have seen, that by transplanting once you change the root structure from a tap root to fibrous structure, which is good. And I also suggest that transplanting once shocks the roots so that they can do that transfer. All of this is written in a post I've posted at several places, on starting from seed. Right now I don't have access to it b'c my faves are at AOL and I have to Use MSN to view and use Tville. Perhaps someone else here has that post of mine on starting seed.
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Carolyn |
November 3, 2006 | #3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Pennsylvania Zone 6
Posts: 461
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Is this the thread you are looking for?
http://faq.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/t...135020413.html If it is the wrong one please remove this post. Thanks |
November 3, 2006 | #4 |
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Upstate NY, zone 4b/5a
Posts: 21,169
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If it is the wrong one please remove this post. Thanks
No, it's not the one I'm referring to but I'm not going to remove or relocate it. The one you linked to is the FAQ at GW on starting from seed. And while I participated in the development of that FAQ it's not the one that I wrote by myself and often post.
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Carolyn |
January 2, 2007 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MS
Posts: 1,521
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How do y'all like the little containers with the mesh style bottom that "air prunes" the roots? I've tried those with tree seedlings in the past and it seems to give a good root mass. I figured it would do the same with tomatoes.
I read a lot here about watering seedlings from the bottom, meaning, I assume, using containers with holes in the bottom, set in pans with water so it soaks up into the container. Only problem is I can't find the small trays like I see in garden sections (about 18 X 24" and a half inch deep) to set them in. I did get some inexpensive plastic storage boxes at Wal Mart that are about 5.5 inches deep and are perfect to hold syrafoam seedling cups. The ones I got will hold about 50 eight ounce cups, so I won't need but a couple to provide all the seedlings I need this year and plenty for friends and neighbors who typically plant about a half dozen plants a year. If anyone knows of a source for the shallower seedling pans please let me know. Thanks! Don PS. I find January to be the perfect time to read and re-read Calolyn's book. Get all pumped up for Spring!
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Zone 7B, N. MS |
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