Supports for tomatoes

Ed of Somis · March 8, 2014

I have pounded my t-stakes in the ground....and am preparing to get my support dialed -in better this year. I am afraid simply hanging horizontal wires between posts may not be best. It seems the tied-off branches could slide on the wire a bit. The Florida Weave looks interesting but dicey for large fruited maters. I love the configuration of the 6"x6" wire mesh (remesh for concrete)...but it does rust and look bad. The cattle panels are just not available in my area. Ideas???

Worth1 · March 8, 2014

Its not going to hurt the plants for them to slide on the wire.

And you can get what they call field fence at Home Depot or Lowes.

Some the holes are smaller is the bottom and some the holes are all the same size.

Plenty big enough for you to get your hands through.
The one in the link has graduated mesh.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_51321-307-70...7C1&facetInfo=

Worth

Worth1 · March 8, 2014

Here is what they call horse fence.

Worth

http://www.lowes.com/pd_89896-307-70...7C1&facetInfo=

nnjjohn · March 8, 2014

yes, great topic.. thanks for reminding me.. last season the plant stems weighed over my tomato cages which is a typical galv fencing gauge wire.. these are store bought tomato cages.. i must devise a way, perhaps use old garden hose split using a utility knife or any vinyl tubing should suffice for around the top of these thin wire cages.. this way the thicker tubing will support the plants much better once the tomatoes put additional weight on the stems. i suppose small pieces can be placed as need be or just do all the top cages before the plants over grow the cages. Another consideration I'm thinking is, use plastic lattice (untreated) for the cucs and zucs and maybe even string bridging over the cages using 1x2x8 untreated pine .. this way, the 1x2x8s passed through and tied off to one upper side of the cages. this bridging support should help keep in line and plum all the cages and stems will have extra support as well..most of my beds are long and two rows so this 1x2x8 lumber won't get too much in the way of reaching for tomatoes and I don't see it a bad idea knowing it should help alleviate the stems damage and offsetting most my cages when the plants mature.

RickyD · March 8, 2014

Last year I put 12 indeterminate plants, 6 plants in 2 rows, a tall T post on each corner of the bed, wrapped large hole 3' tall chicken wire 18" off ground and again at top with a 8" gap. Seemed to work better than cages and sticks. Was a cage full, reached under and thru middle gap to pick.

namwah · March 10, 2014

I use the 6" welded wire fabric cut to make 18" diameter cylinders. They are "industrial" looking at first but you dont notice when the tomatoes get big. They have lasted now for 8 years which is surprising for uncoated steel. I have 5' and 6' high and the 6' works better. I use metal fence post material pounded in at 4' on center, sticking up 3' to 4'. 2 cages per post attached with plastic cinches. If I could find galvanized 6x6 I would use it but have not come across any in affordable rolls.

TNTiger · March 10, 2014

I used the tall t-posts with Florida Weave last year using nylon twine and had great results. It took me a little while to figure out the best way to tie and tighten the twine but once I got the hang of it I had nice tight lines and none of my 9 indeterminate plants fell over (well the tops did after they grew beyond the tops of my t-posts but that was expected. One small confession - I used a t-post between every plant - it was very secure. If you have dozens (or hundreds) of plants this wouldn't be practical!

beeman · March 10, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ed of Somis

(remesh for concrete)...but it does rust and look bad. The cattle panels are just not available in my area. Ideas???

I use a variety of steel around the garden, from T posts to concrete re-enforcing wire, even the re-enforcing rods of various lengths. A pair of bolt cutters can make custom sized panels to hang on the re-enforcing rods. A quick coat of rust proof paint fixes it, use a dark green and you'll hardly see them down the yard.

DonB5750 · April 21, 2014

Just wondering if there's a decent way to use lattice board with T-posts for tomato suppot? I've not seen any mention of it so there must be a reason for that. Just thinking out loud here, if it is framed and a sturdy design and you figured a way to allow sun to come through by positioning it. Any thoughts appreciated.

epsilon · April 21, 2014

In SoCal they're sold as perimeter fence.

DonB5750 · April 21, 2014

Was wondering about something like this, except with T-posts and strung out wider and not individually contained in a raised bed. Maybe used with containers, pots, grow bags, etc.

heirloomtomaguy · April 21, 2014

Home depot has the hdx brand 14 gauge wire mesh 48" tall in the 100' rolls on clearance for 39.99 regularly 79.99. I think the holes are 3" by 5". At that price you cant go wrong.

Durgan · April 21, 2014

I now make an overhead structure and suspend by 1/8 inch rope. Eight foot rebar and four feet between vertical supports works fine and is reasonably econoical. The physical effort is not too onerous. I only have around 30 plants and get around 500 pounds of fruit over the season, which is ample for my needs.

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?QWGMW 1 May 2013 Tomato Support System
A tomato support system was made using rebar and plastic ties to support 27 tomato plants by strings 1/8 diameter dropped down from the structure to the tomato fruit bearing branches. The total area for the structure is 6.5 feet by 22 feet. The verticals are eight foot half inch rebar about two feet in the ground so the height is approximately six feet to avoid head bumping when harvesting the fruit.The rebar are held together by plastic ties.The planting area was fertilized with compost and rototilled in preparation for planting about the 24 of May in my Zone 5.

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?LXROX 14 July 2012 Magic Water Wand (Tomato Plants)
Thirty two plants were watered thoroughly using the MAGIC WATER WAND.The wand was inserted about ten inches from the stalk in three places around the plant. Total time to water 30 minutes. This should be sufficient for a week or ten days.The area is suffering from a severe drought.

Cole_Robbie · April 21, 2014

I just found a guy selling three fifty foot rolls of 6' chain link fencing and he agreed to $100 for all of it. I am thinking I can use a ratcheting come-along to stretch it out, and then screw lumber to it so that I can frame my own fence panels.

I also scavenged several cattle panels out of my grandpa's old barn.

Trying to put a fence up over black plastic mulch is a delicate affair. It rips immediately as soon as any metal touches it.

March 8, 2014	#1
Ed of Somis Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Somis, Ca Posts: 649	Supports for tomatoes I have pounded my t-stakes in the ground....and am preparing to get my support dialed -in better this year. I am afraid simply hanging horizontal wires between posts may not be best. It seems the tied-off branches could slide on the wire a bit. The Florida Weave looks interesting but dicey for large fruited maters. I love the configuration of the 6"x6" wire mesh (remesh for concrete)...but it does rust and look bad. The cattle panels are just not available in my area. Ideas???

March 8, 2014	#4
nnjjohn Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: northern new jersey Posts: 683	yes, great topic.. thanks for reminding me.. last season the plant stems weighed over my tomato cages which is a typical galv fencing gauge wire.. these are store bought tomato cages.. i must devise a way, perhaps use old garden hose split using a utility knife or any vinyl tubing should suffice for around the top of these thin wire cages.. this way the thicker tubing will support the plants much better once the tomatoes put additional weight on the stems. i suppose small pieces can be placed as need be or just do all the top cages before the plants over grow the cages. Another consideration I'm thinking is, use plastic lattice (untreated) for the cucs and zucs and maybe even string bridging over the cages using 1x2x8 untreated pine .. this way, the 1x2x8s passed through and tied off to one upper side of the cages. this bridging support should help keep in line and plum all the cages and stems will have extra support as well..most of my beds are long and two rows so this 1x2x8 lumber won't get too much in the way of reaching for tomatoes and I don't see it a bad idea knowing it should help alleviate the stems damage and offsetting most my cages when the plants mature. __________________ john Last edited by nnjjohn; March 8, 2014 at 10:52 AM. Reason: editing

March 8, 2014	#5
RickyD Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: MS Posts: 39	Last year I put 12 indeterminate plants, 6 plants in 2 rows, a tall T post on each corner of the bed, wrapped large hole 3' tall chicken wire 18" off ground and again at top with a 8" gap. Seemed to work better than cages and sticks. Was a cage full, reached under and thru middle gap to pick. Last edited by RickyD; March 8, 2014 at 08:05 PM.

April 21, 2014	#9
DonB5750 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Western N.C. Posts: 13	Lattice Board configuration? Just wondering if there's a decent way to use lattice board with T-posts for tomato suppot? I've not seen any mention of it so there must be a reason for that. Just thinking out loud here, if it is framed and a sturdy design and you figured a way to allow sun to come through by positioning it. Any thoughts appreciated.

March 8, 2014	#2
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	Its not going to hurt the plants for them to slide on the wire. And you can get what they call field fence at Home Depot or Lowes. Some the holes are smaller is the bottom and some the holes are all the same size. Plenty big enough for you to get your hands through. The one in the link has graduated mesh. http://www.lowes.com/pd_51321-307-70...7C1&facetInfo= Worth

March 10, 2014	#6
namwah Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: palmetto, florida Posts: 47	I use the 6" welded wire fabric cut to make 18" diameter cylinders. They are "industrial" looking at first but you dont notice when the tomatoes get big. They have lasted now for 8 years which is surprising for uncoated steel. I have 5' and 6' high and the 6' works better. I use metal fence post material pounded in at 4' on center, sticking up 3' to 4'. 2 cages per post attached with plastic cinches. If I could find galvanized 6x6 I would use it but have not come across any in affordable rolls.

March 10, 2014	#7
TNTiger Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: TN Posts: 120	I used the tall t-posts with Florida Weave last year using nylon twine and had great results. It took me a little while to figure out the best way to tie and tighten the twine but once I got the hang of it I had nice tight lines and none of my 9 indeterminate plants fell over (well the tops did after they grew beyond the tops of my t-posts but that was expected. One small confession - I used a t-post between every plant - it was very secure. If you have dozens (or hundreds) of plants this wouldn't be practical!

April 21, 2014	#10
epsilon Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Desert CA Posts: 400	In SoCal they're sold as perimeter fence.

April 21, 2014	#12
heirloomtomaguy Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2013 Location: glendora ca Posts: 2,560	Home depot has the hdx brand 14 gauge wire mesh 48" tall in the 100' rolls on clearance for 39.99 regularly 79.99. I think the holes are 3" by 5". At that price you cant go wrong.

April 21, 2014	#13
Durgan Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Brantford, ON, Canada Posts: 1,341	I now make an overhead structure and suspend by 1/8 inch rope. Eight foot rebar and four feet between vertical supports works fine and is reasonably econoical. The physical effort is not too onerous. I only have around 30 plants and get around 500 pounds of fruit over the season, which is ample for my needs. http://www.durgan.org/URL/?QWGMW 1 May 2013 Tomato Support System A tomato support system was made using rebar and plastic ties to support 27 tomato plants by strings 1/8 diameter dropped down from the structure to the tomato fruit bearing branches. The total area for the structure is 6.5 feet by 22 feet. The verticals are eight foot half inch rebar about two feet in the ground so the height is approximately six feet to avoid head bumping when harvesting the fruit.The rebar are held together by plastic ties.The planting area was fertilized with compost and rototilled in preparation for planting about the 24 of May in my Zone 5. http://www.durgan.org/URL/?LXROX 14 July 2012 Magic Water Wand (Tomato Plants) Thirty two plants were watered thoroughly using the MAGIC WATER WAND.The wand was inserted about ten inches from the stalk in three places around the plant. Total time to water 30 minutes. This should be sufficient for a week or ten days.The area is suffering from a severe drought.

April 21, 2014	#14
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	I just found a guy selling three fifty foot rolls of 6' chain link fencing and he agreed to $100 for all of it. I am thinking I can use a ratcheting come-along to stretch it out, and then screw lumber to it so that I can frame my own fence panels. I also scavenged several cattle panels out of my grandpa's old barn. Trying to put a fence up over black plastic mulch is a delicate affair. It rips immediately as soon as any metal touches it.