General information and discussion about cultivating beans, peas, peanuts, clover and vetch.
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#16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Idaho
Posts: 45
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I have grown Green Beauty for 2 years now and they are wonderful. Large, sweet and juicy. Well, juicy as a pea can be. I'm not planting anything different now.
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#17 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 532
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#18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 127
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I've never grown Oregon Giant. But considering i already grow and am breeding with 17+ varieties of peas i suppose maybe i should finally try them. Never heard of a bush version as i've only heard them described as 6ft.
I grew Green Beauty last year. I can't remember if it did well or not. I don't think it did that well, but neither did the other large podded peas (Carouby de Massane and Bijou). But i did save seeds, so whatever did the best of all three of those got mixed together. I don't think they got anywhere near 8ft though, maybe 4ft. But i don't live in the moist Oregon climate they were bred in either. I live at high altitude dry air Colorado instead, so that might be why. Many of my pea varieties reach 6ft. Biskopens is one that might reach 8 though. But it is a monk style soup pea. Hoping to breed it to something else. Sugar Magnolia might also reach 8ft, not sure. It does well for me despite it also being bred in Oregon. It's a purple snap pea. Probably the only Snap variety that actually does well for me. All the others just die. Especially Amish Snap. |
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#19 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 532
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Great pea information. I've tried snap peas but never had much success in my challenging environment, but it looks like Sugar Magnolia just may work for me. I definitely will be giving it a try. I may try Biskopen as well. Thanks, Larry |
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#20 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 532
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Oregon Sugar Pod II Snow Pea is said to be a non climbing dwarf, which reaches 30" high. Sounds like a bush plant to me. Said to be highly disease resistant and very productive but at the same time said to require successive planting for extended harvest. It sounds like it would probably work in my tough environment and may try it sometime in the future, when I get tired of climbing up step ladders.
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#21 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: NC - zone 8a - heat zone 7
Posts: 4,683
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Yeah , look for bulging, not-so-green and tough pods. But pea seeds are not that expensive to buy. I have bought a packet and only used half of it. I guess I am going to put the rest in my soup. ![]()
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Gardeneer Happy Gardening ! |
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#22 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 127
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Today i planted all my breeding peas. Boy there were quite a lot of seeds actually! Here's hoping i get a really nice crop of seed back that i can finally start sharing with those i promised or shared seed with me years ago.
17+ varieties i think. Purple Pod Parsley & Calvin Lamborn's "Snap Greens" Virescens Mutante Sugaree & Sugar Lace II Orc gene peas Sugar Magnolia [2015] Opal Creek [2015] Mummy's (Mummy-Pea, Salmon-flowered, Mummy White, and segregating F2 crosses) F1 Cross between Purple Passion and Mighty Midget Orange-Pod Mighty Midget Purple Passion Biskopens (aka Sweedish Red) Joseph's Red Podded & Joseph's Yellow Podded Purples Dwarf Gray Sugar Large Podded (Bijou, Green Beauty, Carouby de Maussane) Dwarfs (Dwarf Champion, Tom Thumb, etc.) |
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#23 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 532
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Keen101,
What a great project. I wish you the greatest success. Larry |
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#24 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 532
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I read this thread and get the opinion that if I pick mature, bulging, green pods off of my Snow Pea plants and let the peas dry off the vine, the resulting peas will not be viable seeds for next season. Is that correct?
I’d like to pull the vines so I could grow a crop of Lima Beans in the space, before it gets too hot. Thanks, Larry |
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#25 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Colorado
Posts: 127
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But maybe this link will answer your real question better: http://daughterofthesoil.blogspot.co...-for-seed.html In my experience you can and the peas will dry down fine. The biggest problem with harvesting vines and pods before they dry down naturally is they grow mildew fast. And the mold is what can ruin the peas. Best to shell them and spread the green peas out to dry at that point. Last edited by Keen101; March 25, 2017 at 12:21 PM. |
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#26 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 248
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As a rule, I try to dry ripe pods indoors before shelling, unless they were already wet when harvested. It is my opinion that the seeds will continue to draw nutrients from the pod as it dries. Regardless of whether 'green' seed is dried in the pod or shelled first, good air circulation is a must to reduce the chance of mold or mildew. I dry mine under a ceiling fan, in an air conditioned room. I'm assuming that in central Florida, central air is fairly common. ![]() Pods which were harvested before fully ripe may still have viable seed, but the storage life will be less than normal, perhaps a lot less. I would recommend that such seed - after being properly dried - should be stored refrigerated, in an air-tight container. |
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#27 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 532
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Keen101 and Zeedman,
Thanks for all the great information. I will try saving some of the seeds for use this November. I didn’t think I could grow peas here successfully until I grew Snow Peas this winter. I’m really looking forward to next season to grow even more. They go so well with my other vegetables, mainly Broccoli, Kale and Snap Beans. Oh, and yes Zeedman the AC is running a bit more each day as the weather warms up. It’s hard to imagine living in Florida without AC, but I guess they used to do it. Folks must have been tougher back then. ![]() Larry |
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