How do I maximize root size and strength in seedlings? - Page 3

Nan_PA_6b · March 7, 2020

If it's really badly rootbound, I do sometimes cut through the outside 1/4" of the roots.

Mojo · March 8, 2020

/resurfaces

This year, I used fertilized potting mix from Yon Big Blue Box Store, a 65W LED fixture on a fourteen-hour timer, hit them after sprouting with a very dilute dose of rooting solution, and watered every other session or so thereafter with a very dilute preparation of Medina HastaGro. I also had everyone in a two-wheeled dumpcart in which a layer of soil had accumulated from potting up the first time.

When I planted out today, almost every pot had roots leaving the drain holes and going into the dirt beneath. Since most of the drain holes were very large, I was able to keep almost all the systems intact. These were some of the most robust root systems I have seen. So I think I did something correctly this year.

Anthony_Toronto · March 11, 2020

Mojo, did you mean rooting solution as in rooting hormone, or the root-encouraging HastaGro?

p.s. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlDEzmSff3M

salix · March 14, 2020

What Kath said! Thank you in spades, Fusion Power.

Mojo · March 25, 2020

Quote:

Originally Posted by Anthony_Toronto

Mojo, did you mean rooting solution as in rooting hormone, or the root-encouraging HastaGro?

p.s. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlDEzmSff3M

First time the one, then subsequently the other.

Anthony_Toronto · March 25, 2020

Thanks! My hormone refused to mix with water, though I may give it another try when I do my first pot up.

aclum · April 2, 2020

What about trying the Kratky system for root development?

My tomato, pepper, and eggplant seedlings are going to be ready for the garden in a couple of weeks and at the moment I don't have the raised beds ready for them. (Due to the coronavirus lockdown, it looks like our gardeners won't be over to do the annual spring veggie garden weeding and cleanup for quite some time - maybe a couple of months. Being wheelchair bound, etc., it's going to take me some time to get things in shape by myself).

Until then, I'm experimenting with the Kratky system (going by alot of the Khang Starr Youtube videos). Roots get really huge and apparently they can be transplanted successfully to soil. I think there are some setbacks with the Kratky plants that have air and water roots transitioning to soil root types, but I don't know all the details. Can anyone share the specifics on this?

I'm trying Urban Farms Vegetable Food for the nutrient solution - which is probably not ideal, but it's what I have. I'm also growing lettuce and other greens. Will switch to TTF later for the tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants.

Any thoughts on this?
Anne

Black Krim · April 4, 2020

Jumping in.....

For what its worth, just watched a youtube video of a Charles Dowding experiment seeding 6 types of lettuces on two types of starter. His own compost and a starter with vermiculite. Watered with plain water.

A week later those seedlings on the vermiculute side were much larger plants with much larger roots.

So perhaps the medium makes more of a difference than we realize.

amideutch · April 5, 2020

Here is a previous thread concerning Tomato roots. Ami
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...Death+tomatoes

Fusion_power · April 5, 2020

Quote:

So perhaps the medium makes more of a difference than we realize.

What makes a difference is aeration of the growing medium. /verniculite and perlite provide good water retention and lots of air to the roots.

March 8, 2020	#32
Mojo Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 317	/resurfaces This year, I used fertilized potting mix from Yon Big Blue Box Store, a 65W LED fixture on a fourteen-hour timer, hit them after sprouting with a very dilute dose of rooting solution, and watered every other session or so thereafter with a very dilute preparation of Medina HastaGro. I also had everyone in a two-wheeled dumpcart in which a layer of soil had accumulated from potting up the first time. When I planted out today, almost every pot had roots leaving the drain holes and going into the dirt beneath. Since most of the drain holes were very large, I was able to keep almost all the systems intact. These were some of the most robust root systems I have seen. So I think I did something correctly this year. __________________ There is no logical response to the question, "Why won't you let me plant more tomatoes?"

March 14, 2020	#34
salix Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: north central B.C. Posts: 2,310	What Kath said! Thank you in spades, Fusion Power. __________________ "He who has a library and a garden wants for nothing." -Cicero

April 5, 2020	#39
amideutch Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E Posts: 5,041	Here is a previous thread concerning Tomato roots. Ami http://www.tomatoville.com/showthrea...Death+tomatoes __________________ Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘...Holy Crap .....What a ride!'

March 7, 2020	#31
Nan_PA_6b Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Posts: 3,194	If it's really badly rootbound, I do sometimes cut through the outside 1/4" of the roots.

March 11, 2020	#33
Anthony_Toronto Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto Posts: 413	Mojo, did you mean rooting solution as in rooting hormone, or the root-encouraging HastaGro? p.s. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlDEzmSff3M

March 25, 2020	#36
Anthony_Toronto Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Toronto Posts: 413	Thanks! My hormone refused to mix with water, though I may give it another try when I do my first pot up.

April 2, 2020	#37
aclum Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Merced, CA Posts: 832	What about trying the Kratky system for root development? My tomato, pepper, and eggplant seedlings are going to be ready for the garden in a couple of weeks and at the moment I don't have the raised beds ready for them. (Due to the coronavirus lockdown, it looks like our gardeners won't be over to do the annual spring veggie garden weeding and cleanup for quite some time - maybe a couple of months. Being wheelchair bound, etc., it's going to take me some time to get things in shape by myself). Until then, I'm experimenting with the Kratky system (going by alot of the Khang Starr Youtube videos). Roots get really huge and apparently they can be transplanted successfully to soil. I think there are some setbacks with the Kratky plants that have air and water roots transitioning to soil root types, but I don't know all the details. Can anyone share the specifics on this? I'm trying Urban Farms Vegetable Food for the nutrient solution - which is probably not ideal, but it's what I have. I'm also growing lettuce and other greens. Will switch to TTF later for the tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants. Any thoughts on this? Anne

April 4, 2020	#38
Black Krim Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: New England Posts: 661	Jumping in..... For what its worth, just watched a youtube video of a Charles Dowding experiment seeding 6 types of lettuces on two types of starter. His own compost and a starter with vermiculite. Watered with plain water. A week later those seedlings on the vermiculute side were much larger plants with much larger roots. So perhaps the medium makes more of a difference than we realize.