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Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.

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Old September 18, 2019   #16
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 1,438

In order to try to prevent pest diseases, I scrub the pots out well or use new ones, use new sterile potting mix with moisture control granules and food in it (Miracle Grow Moisture Control), provide good light and keep the windows closed. I don't plant until it is cold enough to keep windows closed. Small gnats, aphids, etc., can get through screens and at your plants and breed. Once it is too cold for the pests to be active, I plant, using grocery store plants to save time. I also make sure the soil I buy is from a store that keeps them inside and dry, and the package does not feel heavy and wet. All those measures make it much less likely that pests will have a chance to get at my plants, much less harm them. If I do see any gnats, at first site I float a BT donut in water to water the plants with. But only once or twice did I even see them and those were in spring on my seedlings, not in the winter.
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Old September 18, 2019   #17
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: NewYork 5a
Posts: 2,258

Being in the NorthEast I've learned as well about summer pests and humidity. Once the snow
melts I move my grow shelf/area to my pantry upstairs. Much dryer. Easy to check. No indoor or
outdoor environment is the same. Learn and adjust.
One in a hundred trays I'll get some dampening off or ills. No tears. Just dump it and move on.
(I rinse my trays of bits of soil on the deck with a hose and run through the dishwasher)

One tiny 1/2 ounce of seed can be 2-3 bucks. A full pound around ten for some seed. 5 pounds
as little as 17$. So I buy bulk. Keep in 1/2 pints for easy sowing since I start salads at least
twice a week. I rotate 5 or six varieties....
Even working long hours, up at 4, home after dark, I can sow a half dozen trays in about 15
minutes while winding down from the drive/commute.
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