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New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.

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Old April 12, 2019   #16
Scooty
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what kind of weeds you get?
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Old April 12, 2019   #17
oakley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hovermother22 View Post
I start my tomato and pepper seeds on a heated seed mat. I was under the impression that they do not need light until they break through the surface and begin to sprout
. I use a plastic 72-cell seed-starting tray. This is my dilemma: Seeds germinate at a different rate. At what point do I put them under the lights? Will I do damage to the seeds that have not broken the surface yet if I put them under the lights so that the seeds that have popped can benefit from light and to avoid legginess in those that have popped?
I put my trays under lights when about 1/3rd are up. Just check twice a day and keep the empty cells damp
with a small spritzer bottle. If an entire row is lagging behind I lay a strip of plastic cut from a gallon zip-lock
to keep it moist. If the seed is viable they will eventually show up. Avoid watering the entire tray. Just
wet cells with the slow-pokes. If an emerging seed still not visible dries out, it may not make it.

I have three cells right now, same variety, that is a no show at nearly two weeks now.
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Old April 12, 2019   #18
oakley
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I started all tomato seeds and I swear some of the plants are weeds and not tomato.
They look nothing like a tomato plant.
The sad part is I used different soil mixes so I don't know which to blame.
I curse them again.
What varieties? Some cherries do look like weeds.
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Old April 12, 2019   #19
oakley
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One thing that might help in the future...germinate test your soil early.

Around last Thanksgiving I took advantage of free shipping and ordered 2 10lb bags of coir cubes.
(not mesh pots). Stocked up. Compressed cubes. I grow salad year round with stellar success finally.
I just need 4-5 expanding cubes per tray. Easy and convenient to just soak what I need. 4-10 trays
per week in succession.

Around the x-mas holidays I did a germination test tray of tomatoes. Also a heat treatment SousVide.
One row of micros to grow out and dwarfs, and a row of Terenzo hybrid.
Multi-tasking testing to also see if the coir is also good for tomato starting.

They all did really well. So, this healthy 1010 tray of starts I did keep growing after culling to one per cell.
Potted up nine dwarfs and nine micros, a couple Terenzo for early tomatoes.

No need to start that early, but an early, 3-4 week early, can give a good assessment of your soil you
plan to use. Before spending time and seed with a new bag.
(I just potted up a couple dozen using a new bag of proMix. So freaked about soil I'm testing it before I
continue.)
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Old April 12, 2019   #20
Labradors2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slugworth View Post
I started all tomato seeds and I swear some of the plants are weeds and not tomato.
They look nothing like a tomato plant.
The sad part is I used different soil mixes so I don't know which to blame.
I curse them again.
I too have had weed seeds growing in the potting mix. I don't remember the brand either .

Linda
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Old April 12, 2019   #21
Labradors2
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And then you can do something idiotic like adding too much salt to the water softener and then wondering why the seedlings look sick! That was me last year. Fortunately, I managed to save most of them. I have learned my lesson and this year, I'm only using water that has bypassed the softener.

Linda
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Old April 12, 2019   #22
clkeiper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Labradors2 View Post
And then you can do something idiotic like adding too much salt to the water softener and then wondering why the seedlings look sick! That was me last year. Fortunately, I managed to save most of them. I have learned my lesson and this year, I'm only using water that has bypassed the softener.

Linda
can I ask what kind of softener do you have that you can add too much salt? none of the ones I have ever seen used more than a preset amount of salt per cycle. leaving some salt in the water is normal but not enough to kill off the seedlings.
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Old April 12, 2019   #23
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Some of those same plants I just brought upstairs to get some sunny weather. They need potting
up tomorrow. Might have some nice early tomatoes as the weather is about to hit 75 tomorrow.
Spend some time outside in the shade. (dwarfs are tough plants!) They seem to just sit and wait
without complaint.
dMetalica, dArtsy variegated and some Angora micros I call PicoloGato (akaLittleKitty)
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Old April 12, 2019   #24
oakley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clkeiper View Post
can I ask what kind of softener do you have that you can add too much salt? none of the ones I have ever seen used more than a preset amount of salt per cycle. leaving some salt in the water is normal but not enough to kill off the seedlings.
My softener is pre-set but I bypass it for plants and yard/garden work. The original homeowners had it in
their house notes to do so. So I do it.
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Old April 13, 2019   #25
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Thanks for your help! I really appreciate it.
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Old April 13, 2019   #26
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I had some loses in my peppers last night. I'm going to blame it on this thread. It's like an evil chain letter. If you've read this far it may already be too late for you. But there may be hope for you. If you send Grenada or. Zavrony......

Nah, too late to replant anyway.
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Old April 13, 2019   #27
oakley
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Here is a tray with late germination. Surprised to see these this morning. 16 days from
sowing. I always sow 3-5 per cell and just getting some now. Not great gemination rate
from this variety, Kelso from BunnyHop. Rest of the tray is up. three cells of Kelso, one is
still empty. This tray has been under light for a week now. I have kept those empty cells
misted.
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Old April 13, 2019   #28
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I have a few varieties that are still coming up. But my problem was that some of my crosses and my seasoning pepper fell over as a group. They looked totally limp, like pepperomia does it it goes a few days without water. But they aren't dry so I don't think they're going to snap back with a misting.
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Old April 13, 2019   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hovermother22 View Post
I start my tomato and pepper seeds on a heated seed mat. I was under the impression that they do not need light until they break through the surface and begin to sprout
. I use a plastic 72-cell seed-starting tray. This is my dilemma: Seeds germinate at a different rate. At what point do I put them under the lights? Will I do damage to the seeds that have not broken the surface yet if I put them under the lights so that the seeds that have popped can benefit from light and to avoid legginess in those that have popped?
I put mine under lights the minute I see the"elbow" of the seedling breaking the soil. Tomato seeds don't need light, but don't mind light either. I have a gentle fan on them at that moment also. Fan stays on 24/7. Light is on during waking hours, off at bedtime.
Leggy seedlings are weak seedlings, and they will get leggy stretching for light.
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Old April 13, 2019   #30
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My lowly advice is to plant seeds, put the trays under the lights and start the cycle at that time.
What have you possibly got to lose?
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