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Old May 2, 2016   #16
barefootgardener
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Ted, that is a nice looking truckload bed of tomatoes you have!

Keep doing what you are doing, cause it works beautifully for you!



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Old May 2, 2016   #17
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Great looking plants, Ted. Your use of MG crystals early is evidently beneficial. Do you know why?

Steve
The real truth of it is that I don't know for sure why it makes a difference. I can only think that because I deal with a lot of seed sources, the plants come with traits that reflect the varied growing conditions and availability of nutrients. I expect that some will have problems during germination due to those deficiencies. I expect that there are some folks with whom I trade seeds who do not keep fertilizers on their plants for the entire growing season. When the fruit forms the seeds, the germplasm probably reflects those deficiencies.

My theory is that the little bit of fertilizer may be balancing out the differences that might be there because of the different environments of those different sources. If seed from one of the sources has a slight deficiency in one of the chemicals in its germplasm, I feel like the presence of a balanced fertilizer might make a difference and allow the plant to even things out. Basically, I try to provide a nutrient rich environment for the seedlings to grow up in. I keep the fertilizer levels way down so as to not create toxicity. The plants can have all they want, and I trust them to take it as they need it. As my signature says, I am convinced that my plants possess an intelligence that can communicate with we humans. The trick is for us humans to learn how to listen to them.

The experts can tell me I am just dreaming and that my theory is just a lot of smoke up the chimney. But I know that something that I'm doing is making a significant difference - a good difference. So, I ain't gonna stop.

I'm just gonna ride this pony all the way to a great harvest.
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Old May 2, 2016   #18
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Thanks, folks. I think they look healthy, strong, and ready for the production phase. But not everyone has had kind words for my techniques. Back when I posted my germination pictures, some folks didn't like the idea that I was using a weak fertilizer in my seed starter mix and also in the water I use.

I've been criticized for using a 1/30th solution of MG crystals to do my watering of the trays where germination starts. All I have to answer to the "nay sayers" is "Well, here's the poor, mange infested, horrible, moldy, burned up, wilted plants that I'll have to deal with this year."
Poor Ted. I feel so sorry for him having to plant out all those mangy tomato plants okay I'm laughing too much to type anymore
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Old May 2, 2016   #19
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The real truth of it is that I don't know for sure why it makes a difference. I can only think that because I deal with a lot of seed sources, the plants come with traits that reflect the varied growing conditions and availability of nutrients. I expect that some will have problems during germination due to those deficiencies. I expect that there are some folks with whom I trade seeds who do not keep fertilizers on their plants for the entire growing season. When the fruit forms the seeds, the germplasm probably reflects those deficiencies.

My theory is that the little bit of fertilizer may be balancing out the differences that might be there because of the different environments of those different sources. If seed from one of the sources has a slight deficiency in one of the chemicals in its germplasm, I feel like the presence of a balanced fertilizer might make a difference and allow the plant to even things out. Basically, I try to provide a nutrient rich environment for the seedlings to grow up in. I keep the fertilizer levels way down so as to not create toxicity. The plants can have all they want, and I trust them to take it as they need it. As my signature says, I am convinced that my plants possess an intelligence that can communicate with we humans. The trick is for us humans to learn how to listen to them.

The experts can tell me I am just dreaming and that my theory is just a lot of smoke up the chimney. But I know that something that I'm doing is making a significant difference - a good difference. So, I ain't gonna stop.

I'm just gonna ride this pony all the way to a great harvest.
Makes alot of sense since the seeds reflect all areas of conditions the plants are grown under. Plus seed is saved so many different ways, it kinda gives them all an extra boost. If there wasn't something to the use of MG early then we would not have the success of waking up 20 year old seeds by using it.

When is transplant or plant out time?
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Old May 2, 2016   #20
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I've got one more storm system today, and I have to make a decision on Thursday's low of mid to upper 30's. I will probably start late tomorrow with some that I have backups for. And I'll probably include two of my four mature plants.

When I first moved here in 2010, we had a hard frost on May 19th. I'm still a bit hesitant due to that.

Gotta get back to my sick, scraggly, badly cared for, diseased, hopeless plants. I'll need to see how many I can abuse to death by sundown.
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Old May 2, 2016   #21
sjamesNorway
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Originally Posted by ContainerTed View Post
The real truth of it is that I don't know for sure why it makes a difference. I can only think that because I deal with a lot of seed sources, the plants come with traits that reflect the varied growing conditions and availability of nutrients. I expect that some will have problems during germination due to those deficiencies. I expect that there are some folks with whom I trade seeds who do not keep fertilizers on their plants for the entire growing season. When the fruit forms the seeds, the germplasm probably reflects those deficiencies.

My theory is that the little bit of fertilizer may be balancing out the differences that might be there because of the different environments of those different sources. If seed from one of the sources has a slight deficiency in one of the chemicals in its germplasm, I feel like the presence of a balanced fertilizer might make a difference and allow the plant to even things out. Basically, I try to provide a nutrient rich environment for the seedlings to grow up in. I keep the fertilizer levels way down so as to not create toxicity. The plants can have all they want, and I trust them to take it as they need it. As my signature says, I am convinced that my plants possess an intelligence that can communicate with we humans. The trick is for us humans to learn how to listen to them.

The experts can tell me I am just dreaming and that my theory is just a lot of smoke up the chimney. But I know that something that I'm doing is making a significant difference - a good difference. So, I ain't gonna stop.

I'm just gonna ride this pony all the way to a great harvest.
Thanks, Ted. Your explanation makes good sense to me.
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Old May 2, 2016   #22
PureHarvest
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Nutrients early makes sense to me.
I start feeding a 1/2 strength solution 3 days after seedlings emerge. They do great and are beautiful to behold. No yellow tint, no streaks, no purpling.

Frost possible in TN? Wow, I though you guys were considered the south? I guess you are at a higher elevation?
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Old May 2, 2016   #23
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Nutrients early makes sense to me.
I start feeding a 1/2 strength solution 3 days after seedlings emerge. They do great and are beautiful to behold. No yellow tint, no streaks, no purpling.

Frost possible in TN? Wow, I though you guys were considered the south? I guess you are at a higher elevation?
When I retired from the U.S. Air Force in 1984, I came back to this location just north of Knoxville. That December, we had a "cold snap" and the temperature got down to -24 degrees Fahrenheit. while we are definitely in the south, we have all four seasons to varying extremes.

Most years, we get into the teens a few times. Right here in my location, the average last frost date is the third week of April. But many times, we can still have frost as late as the third week of May. First frost can be as early as mid September, but is usually in late October. So, May to June to July to August to September to October is a nice long growing season, especially for tomatoes.
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Old May 2, 2016   #24
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My garden located in the NC mountains about 50 miles from Bristol. Calling for a "Blackberry Winter" later this week. Regional weather forecaster located at Appalachian State Univ. in Boone puts out a daily forecast...Today's forecast for later this week says in part:

"Yes, there's a mention of snow showers Thursday as cold Canadian air arrives."
raysweather.com

I am planning to plant out sometime next week but if conditions are not right, will wait another week. Will keep an eye on extended forecast. Our average last frost date is first week of May but there have been isolated incidents when it went into early June.
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Old May 2, 2016   #25
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Ted your frost dates mirror mine.
Typical last frost mid April but I can recall 28 degrees on May 21 about 8 hrs ago.
Killing frost can be October but lately has been early November.
Weather is somewhat moderated because i am 15 miles from the coast.
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