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General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.

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Old May 11, 2013   #61
EarlyStarter
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I start with my composted soil, which I'll mix some blood meal into, often along with some local duck manure. I use bone meal in the hole when I do my final transplant. Early on I will water with a light dose of fish emulsion. Once the plants have taken well to final transplant I water about once weekly with fish emulsion and straight water if needed in between. About once a month I will use a manure tea instead/as well, typically made from the same duck manure. I also use Green light super bloom 12-55-6 once they've been in the ground/containers for a couple of weeks. I use the super bloom fertilizer every 1-2 weeks. I think that's basically my bag...
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Old May 12, 2013   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EarlyStarter View Post
I start with my composted soil, which I'll mix some blood meal into, often along with some local duck manure. I use bone meal in the hole when I do my final transplant. Early on I will water with a light dose of fish emulsion. Once the plants have taken well to final transplant I water about once weekly with fish emulsion and straight water if needed in between. About once a month I will use a manure tea instead/as well, typically made from the same duck manure. I also use Green light super bloom 12-55-6 once they've been in the ground/containers for a couple of weeks. I use the super bloom fertilizer every 1-2 weeks. I think that's basically my bag...
("super bloom 12-55-6") I say this with all due respect: this ratio is great for indoor pot-growing, but is the opposite of what tomatoes require for optimum fruiting, at least in reference to the P and K. During fruiting, tomatoes want less P than N, by about half, or even less. They want as much as twice the amount of K than N. A large amount of potassium is fundamental in maturing tomatoes: it contributes greatly to sweetness, firmness, disease resistance, and many other metabolic processes. Only small amounts of P are needed. Calcium is needed at roughly 2/3's the amount of N.

I say this not to sound like an internet expert, which we're all familiar with, but from 30 years of greenhouse experience, and many thousands of dollars spent on lab analysis. Also, read the research from any ag university and it will say approximately the same thing.

It sounds like you are happy with your results. Perhaps if you switched to a ratio of 2-1-3 (or any multiple, such as: 6-3-9, 12-6-18, etc) you might even see better. However, since you already are adding bone meal to the hole, you might reduce that middle number even more.

Best regards,
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Old May 12, 2013   #63
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Originally Posted by Urbanfarmer View Post
("super bloom 12-55-6") I say this with all due respect: this ratio is great for indoor pot-growing, but is the opposite of what tomatoes require for optimum fruiting, at least in reference to the P and K. During fruiting, tomatoes want less P than N, by about half, or even less. They want as much as twice the amount of K than N. A large amount of potassium is fundamental in maturing tomatoes: it contributes greatly to sweetness, firmness, disease resistance, and many other metabolic processes. Only small amounts of P are needed. Calcium is needed at roughly 2/3's the amount of N.

I say this not to sound like an internet expert, which we're all familiar with, but from 30 years of greenhouse experience, and many thousands of dollars spent on lab analysis. Also, read the research from any ag university and it will say approximately the same thing.

It sounds like you are happy with your results. Perhaps if you switched to a ratio of 2-1-3 (or any multiple, such as: 6-3-9, 12-6-18, etc) you might even see better. However, since you already are adding bone meal to the hole, you might reduce that middle number even more.

Best regards,
I appreciate your input! I left out a few details that may or not matter, and I have indeed experimented with a more balanced sounding fertilizing program, however this is what is currently working best for me. I am always trying new things with several of my plants. I grow using mostly a single stem method for my tomatoes and grow in containers. I generally use the Super bloom at about half strength, as I feel like most products are simply looking to be re-purchased asap and I'm looking for less hills and valleys in regards to nutrient uptake. In general, I would say I am a bit of an extremist with some things, but it is generally experimental and with my current methods I have had great results. I have had to turn to craigslist to give away extra tomatoes since I ran out of neighboring doorsteps for mid-night drop offs. All joking aside, 16 container plants last year gave me more than enough to give away over 300 lbs of tomatoes and still have enough to jar sauce weekly. I pulled my last tomato on Christmas...though the last two months were quite slow.

Again , I appreciate the input greatly, even if it sounds like I am defending my methods I am always trying to experiment with new ways and ideas, so if you have a specific suggestion or several I will gladly run a side by side comparison grow. Thanks again for the previous and any further input!
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Old May 12, 2013   #64
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I might also say that, even before I begin much pruning (and of course plenty thereafter), I have an abundance of new green growth....typical, I know. I would need to do a current soil test, as I haven't in a couple of years since I found a mix and method I that worked well for me, but I always felt I had an abundance of nitrogen, as I did a few years ago last time I sent in a sample for test. My in-ground soil is heavy in adobe-soil however, and I have had best results adding almost only Nitrogen...any suggestions or thoughts here? I just assumed that my nitrogen level is up to par in my containers due to the composted material, blood meal, fish emulsion with about every watering....etc. The half strength (I realize I should have mentioned this, as I only adjusted last year) bloom fertilizing, etc...I would still figure on having a greater N to P ratio. Really, I would be greatly interested in a suggestion, regardless of my past results. I already end up with waaaaay more than I need and give away lots to the food bank next door, neighbors, etc. I see no harm in making an attempt at further progress, ever, so I look forward to any suggestions, specific products as a replacement, get rid of, etc. I am quite an experimental gardener and am always looking expand my horizons.


Thanks!


~Ken

Last edited by EarlyStarter; May 12, 2013 at 01:27 PM.
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Old May 12, 2013   #65
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I wonder if this thread could be made a sticky?
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Old May 12, 2013   #66
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Phooey. I just put in fert strips of Tomato Tone and Garden Tone in my SWCs. I also mixed in some MG shakenfeed slow release for vegetable that has calcium and other elements but not a lot.

Lilly Miller 10 10 10. Hmmmmm. Need to check that out if I can find some. Haven't seen it locally here in southern VA.

OR go Foliage Pro. I have that now for non SWC.

Well it seems a Lowes not far from where I work has it. So now to make a side trip after work and get the "tones" out and the Lilly Miller in.

I also saw where a guy did a fert test on the earthbox forum. He used to orgaincs and what I think was the Lilly Miller. The LM was the winner and the pictures showed it.

Last edited by Jaysan; May 12, 2013 at 09:51 PM. Reason: added info
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Old May 13, 2013   #67
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I am a golf course superintendent and was wondering if adding this fertilizer to my tomato plants would work?

http://soilfirst.com/replenish-5-4-5/

Thanks!
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Old May 14, 2013   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urbanfarmer View Post
("super bloom 12-55-6") I say this with all due respect: this ratio is great for indoor pot-growing, but is the opposite of what tomatoes require for optimum fruiting, at least in reference to the P and K. During fruiting, tomatoes want less P than N, by about half, or even less. They want as much as twice the amount of K than N. A large amount of potassium is fundamental in maturing tomatoes: it contributes greatly to sweetness, firmness, disease resistance, and many other metabolic processes. Only small amounts of P are needed. Calcium is needed at roughly 2/3's the amount of N.

I say this not to sound like an internet expert, which we're all familiar with, but from 30 years of greenhouse experience, and many thousands of dollars spent on lab analysis. Also, read the research from any ag university and it will say approximately the same thing.

It sounds like you are happy with your results. Perhaps if you switched to a ratio of 2-1-3 (or any multiple, such as: 6-3-9, 12-6-18, etc) you might even see better. However, since you already are adding bone meal to the hole, you might reduce that middle number even more.

Best regards,
Tomato Tone is 3-4-6 - that seems like it would do the job.
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Old May 14, 2013   #69
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The P is a little high, but not terrible. However, if you're referring to all-organic TT, then it's not simply the numbers.....the release rates come into play. This is the disadvantage of trying to get quick or consistent results from organics. The various elements don't release at the same time. The stated ratio is for totals, not what's available. This is just one of the reasons organics don't work in hydroponics, for instance.
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Old May 17, 2013   #70
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Well I'm planning to use Fish emulsion about every 3-4 weeks thru August as an addition to my regular fert program. I'm gonna use FF Buddhagrow at the beginning (just gettin them out this weekend) and then start using the Buddhabloom too.
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