Planted in My First Earthbox Today - Where Now to Place the Fertilizer?

rnewste · February 11, 2008

Had a Cherokee Purple growing in the house over the Winter, and transplanted it today into one of my homemade Rubbermaid 'Tainers. As I made a dividing wall to isolate the 2 tomato plant root systems from each other, I now am debating where to place the fertilizer strip (or strips).

Should I just lay down a single fertilizer strip along the long edge of the 'Tainer - - or should I use 2 smaller strips along the short edges furthest away from the water basket?

Ray

MargeH · February 11, 2008

In the lecture on Saturday, Blake said there were three main places to put the fertilizer strip: the center, the long way; the long way on the side with the fill tube; and down the center the short way. There was a fourth way that he said was for a "salad garden" box: down the center the long way but as you approach the fill tube angle toward it. Plant one tomato plant opposite the tube on the short side and then you have 5 spots for peppers, lettuce, etc.

I had not seen a real Earth Box until Saturday. One thing that is different about them is that the areas where the earth and water meet are in the corners on the side opposite the fill hole. He called the way the fertilizer moved in the soil when the strip was on the fill side diffusion. He said that the water would come up from the holes and travel in the soil across the box. The fertilizer would only move so far against the direction of the water. The tomato roots would then grow toward the fertilizer but wouldn't get burned.

I didn't go back and look at the pictures to see where you placed your basket. I know that in the DIY directions I have seen, the basket is in the center. I also have two Gardeners Supply boxes and they have several strips the short way in the center of the box that reach down.

None of this probably helps you decide, but that was one of the most interesting parts of his lecture. After he filled the box, he pushed the soil down into the holes, looked up, smiled, and said, "Now this box is alive!"

___
Marjorie

rnewste · February 11, 2008

Hi Marge,

I kind of have 2 Earthboxes combined in one container, but rotated 90 degrees, if you know what I mean. If I used Blake's logic, I would put the (2) strips of fertilizer along the handle sides of the container, which is furthest away from the wicking basket.

I have read the Earthbox Company Patent on "diffusion" and I am sure they have experimented with many location options, so I guess they know best. My conventional logic would been to circle each plant with a ring strip of the fertilizer about 8" away from the tomato plant stem.

In fact, I am going to experiment with an "A/B" test with a couple of my 'Tainers using different fertilizer placements, and see which configuration gives me the best yield.

Ray

dcarch · February 12, 2008

Ray,

That plant looks a little leggy. It must be really happy to be outdoors enjoying full sun.

The boxes must be really heavy when they are full. How are you going to move them around?

dcarch

rnewste · February 12, 2008

dcarch,

Yes, the plant was raised indoors all Winter, so it is very leggy. Glad I didn't snap it off as I was lowering it into the cage system.

Regarding moving the EarthTainers around, I wanted to be able to spin them around 180 degrees every few months to balance out exposure to my Southern orientation, but when the boxes were filled with 5.5" of water in the reservoir, the darn things are VERY heavy. I calculate there is more than 3 cubic feet of water in the reservoir and potting mix, (so how much does a cubic foot of water weigh)?

Someone posted a while ago that the 'Tainers might easily tip over in a windstorm. Trust me - - it will take a full blown hurricane to tip these puppys over!!

I adapted the EarthBox Company's Automated Watering System (AWS) and had to modify the height of the fill tube to accommodate the 6" reservoir, but now I have the new water level set to automatically remain at a constant 5.5" depth. I will NEVER have to pick up a hose again and manually water tomatoes!!!

Having a constant 5.5" of water adds to the stability of the 'Tainer as well as keep the air gap at a constant half-inch, so in theory, the tomato plants should "like" this consistency, without the water level varying by several inches as in a manually watered 'Tainer.

I'll post some photos once I get them uploaded to Morgan's site.

Ray

Earl · February 12, 2008

Since I haven't messed with them in about a year my memory may be a bit fuzzy, but IIRC. I ended up using cut to size insulation Styrofoam [1/2 inch thick 4' by 8'] as the separator and septic tank drainage pipe [with holes type] to hold the wick and hold up the Styrofoam. I used a jig saw to do all the cutting and I don't remember what size drill I used to do the holes in the separator.

I found this to be the easiest way to do it. I used the large RubberMaid containers, a good bit larger than the bought EBs; holds more water and soil. To, I drilled two holes half way up container on each side and used telephone type rubberized wire to keep sides from expanding.

The two early tomatoes I grew in one container did rather well, as did most all the stuff I grew in the other ones; herbs, lettuce and etc.

robin303 · February 12, 2008

As handy as you are I would make my own little furniture dollies out of 2x4s and swivel casters and I would rotate my plants every other day. A gallon of JP-4 jet fuel was 6.7 per gallon but have no idea what water weighs but I know it is heavier.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94354

rnewste · February 12, 2008

Just looked up the numbers on the web and water weighs 63 lbs. per cubic ft. As I have 1.65 cubic ft. of water in the reservoir (104 lbs) and I estimate the potting mix with moisture control is absorbing another 20 lbs. or more of water, anyone who has a concern about these things tipping over in a windstorm has little to worry about. The vines with their tomatoes will wind up with Dorothy in OZ before the containers will ever move..

Ray

rnewste · February 13, 2008

Robin,

Thanks for the link to the dollies, but 12 of them on the redwood deck would NOT meet the W.A.F.

What I would really like to find is a thin piece of Teflon coated material to put underneath each box, so that I could (more easily) rotate the 'Tainers 180 degrees every so often. Anyone know of such a material and source?

BTW, in the above post, I forgot to add in the weight of the dry Potting Mix itself, which adds another 40 lbs., so each of these 'Tainers when filled, weigh approx 165 lbs.!!

Ray

dcarch · February 13, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by rnewste

Robin,

Thanks for the link to the dollies, but 12 of them on the redwood deck would NOT meet the W.A.F.

What I would really like to find is a thin piece of Teflon coated material to put underneath each box, so that I could (more easily) rotate the 'Tainers 180 degrees every so often. Anyone know of such a material and source?

BTW, in the above post, I forgot to add in the weight of the dry Potting Mix itself, which adds another 40 lbs., so each of these 'Tainers when filled, weigh approx 165 lbs.!!

Ray

I have used adhesive backed Teflon sheets on my table saw. It's been a while, so I don't remember where i got them from.

dcarch

robin303 · February 13, 2008

Well what I do Ray is I use a real good dolly and move my 5 gal containers around [tomato] on my porch just to follow the sun. $30 at Homer a while back.

rnewste · February 13, 2008

Robin,

At 165 lbs, these things are just too heavy to pick up and put on a dolly. dcarch is on target with what I am trying to accomplish - a thin Teflon coated surface (about the size of a door mat) to permanently put under each 'Tainer to make the swivel process something that Dear Wife could even do...

Ray

dcarch · February 13, 2008

Take a look at this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95353

dcarch

rnewste · February 13, 2008

dcarch,

Thanks for the link. For 9 bucks, that is a worthwhile product for those who want to move their containers around to different locations.

What I am really looking for is a "passive", slippery, fixed, door mat sized product that can sit under each 'Tainer. I don't want to move them across the deck from one spot to another - - just (easily) swivel them on their axis.

Ray

dice · February 14, 2008

(This site is in the UK, but once you know what industry
generally uses this sort of thing, ....)

http://www.silvalea.com/accessories.html

February 11, 2008	#3
rnewste Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Campbell, CA Posts: 4,064	Hi Marge, I kind of have 2 Earthboxes combined in one container, but rotated 90 degrees, if you know what I mean. If I used Blake's logic, I would put the (2) strips of fertilizer along the handle sides of the container, which is furthest away from the wicking basket. I have read the Earthbox Company Patent on "diffusion" and I am sure they have experimented with many location options, so I guess they know best. My conventional logic would been to circle each plant with a ring strip of the fertilizer about 8" away from the tomato plant stem. In fact, I am going to experiment with an "A/B" test with a couple of my 'Tainers using different fertilizer placements, and see which configuration gives me the best yield. Ray Last edited by rnewste; February 12, 2008 at 12:13 AM.

February 12, 2008	#4
dcarch Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: NY Posts: 2,618	Ray, That plant looks a little leggy. It must be really happy to be outdoors enjoying full sun. The boxes must be really heavy when they are full. How are you going to move them around? dcarch __________________ tomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomato matomato tomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomato matomato tomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomatomato matomato

February 12, 2008	#5
rnewste Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Campbell, CA Posts: 4,064	dcarch, Yes, the plant was raised indoors all Winter, so it is very leggy. Glad I didn't snap it off as I was lowering it into the cage system. Regarding moving the EarthTainers around, I wanted to be able to spin them around 180 degrees every few months to balance out exposure to my Southern orientation, but when the boxes were filled with 5.5" of water in the reservoir, the darn things are VERY heavy. I calculate there is more than 3 cubic feet of water in the reservoir and potting mix, (so how much does a cubic foot of water weigh)? Someone posted a while ago that the 'Tainers might easily tip over in a windstorm. Trust me - - it will take a full blown hurricane to tip these puppys over!! I adapted the EarthBox Company's Automated Watering System (AWS) and had to modify the height of the fill tube to accommodate the 6" reservoir, but now I have the new water level set to automatically remain at a constant 5.5" depth. I will NEVER have to pick up a hose again and manually water tomatoes!!! Having a constant 5.5" of water adds to the stability of the 'Tainer as well as keep the air gap at a constant half-inch, so in theory, the tomato plants should "like" this consistency, without the water level varying by several inches as in a manually watered 'Tainer. I'll post some photos once I get them uploaded to Morgan's site. Ray Last edited by rnewste; February 12, 2008 at 05:09 PM.

February 12, 2008	#6
Earl Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: SW Ohio Posts: 1,278	Since I haven't messed with them in about a year my memory may be a bit fuzzy, but IIRC. I ended up using cut to size insulation Styrofoam [1/2 inch thick 4' by 8'] as the separator and septic tank drainage pipe [with holes type] to hold the wick and hold up the Styrofoam. I used a jig saw to do all the cutting and I don't remember what size drill I used to do the holes in the separator. I found this to be the easiest way to do it. I used the large RubberMaid containers, a good bit larger than the bought EBs; holds more water and soil. To, I drilled two holes half way up container on each side and used telephone type rubberized wire to keep sides from expanding. The two early tomatoes I grew in one container did rather well, as did most all the stuff I grew in the other ones; herbs, lettuce and etc. __________________ "Seriously think about what you're about to do/say before you do it and the outcome will always be better." Earl

February 12, 2008	#8
rnewste Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Campbell, CA Posts: 4,064	Just looked up the numbers on the web and water weighs 63 lbs. per cubic ft. As I have 1.65 cubic ft. of water in the reservoir (104 lbs) and I estimate the potting mix with moisture control is absorbing another 20 lbs. or more of water, anyone who has a concern about these things tipping over in a windstorm has little to worry about. The vines with their tomatoes will wind up with Dorothy in OZ before the containers will ever move.. Ray Last edited by rnewste; February 12, 2008 at 08:33 PM.

February 11, 2008	#2
MargeH Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2006 Location: Sarasota, FL Posts: 224	In the lecture on Saturday, Blake said there were three main places to put the fertilizer strip: the center, the long way; the long way on the side with the fill tube; and down the center the short way. There was a fourth way that he said was for a "salad garden" box: down the center the long way but as you approach the fill tube angle toward it. Plant one tomato plant opposite the tube on the short side and then you have 5 spots for peppers, lettuce, etc. I had not seen a real Earth Box until Saturday. One thing that is different about them is that the areas where the earth and water meet are in the corners on the side opposite the fill hole. He called the way the fertilizer moved in the soil when the strip was on the fill side diffusion. He said that the water would come up from the holes and travel in the soil across the box. The fertilizer would only move so far against the direction of the water. The tomato roots would then grow toward the fertilizer but wouldn't get burned. I didn't go back and look at the pictures to see where you placed your basket. I know that in the DIY directions I have seen, the basket is in the center. I also have two Gardeners Supply boxes and they have several strips the short way in the center of the box that reach down. None of this probably helps you decide, but that was one of the most interesting parts of his lecture. After he filled the box, he pushed the soil down into the holes, looked up, smiled, and said, "Now this box is alive!" ___ Marjorie

February 12, 2008	#7
robin303 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Austin, TX Zone 8b Posts: 531	As handy as you are I would make my own little furniture dollies out of 2x4s and swivel casters and I would rotate my plants every other day. A gallon of JP-4 jet fuel was 6.7 per gallon but have no idea what water weighs but I know it is heavier. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94354

February 13, 2008	#9
rnewste Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Campbell, CA Posts: 4,064	Robin, Thanks for the link to the dollies, but 12 of them on the redwood deck would NOT meet the W.A.F. What I would really like to find is a thin piece of Teflon coated material to put underneath each box, so that I could (more easily) rotate the 'Tainers 180 degrees every so often. Anyone know of such a material and source? BTW, in the above post, I forgot to add in the weight of the dry Potting Mix itself, which adds another 40 lbs., so each of these 'Tainers when filled, weigh approx 165 lbs.!! Ray

February 14, 2008	#15
dice Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: PNW Posts: 4,743	(This site is in the UK, but once you know what industry generally uses this sort of thing, ....) http://www.silvalea.com/accessories.html __________________ -- alias