Indoor-then-outdoor containers for earlier tomatoes?

[Crouch]

I’m new to the tomato game but like many others, would like ripe tomatoes before nature otherwise would normally allow.

I’m wondering if doing my final transplant into Tomato Success Kits 2-3 weeks before the last frost date and keeping the kits indoors in a high sun area for those 2-3 weeks would let the root systems, etc. get a jump start. I then could move the entire kits outside (without needing to re-transplant) after the last frost date passes.

Would doing so move up the time for ripening, or will all those efforts go for naught due to outside temperatures prohibiting flower set or some other limiting factor kicking in?

I’m in central NJ. The last three years, I’ve transplanted outside in very early May but have not had any ripe tomatoes until the last week of July using Cherokee Purple, Black Krim, Brandywine, and Ramapo F1.

I realize I can use earlier varieties but I’d prefer to use the mainstays like the above, esp. if there’s a workaround such as the indoor/outdoor concept. This year, I’ll be planting Sungold (which will come in sooner) but also Amazon Chocolate and Ramapo.

[rhines81]

Why not. Some of those varieties get pretty big, but my guess is you could start most types and grow them indoors without bringing them out at all as long as they get plenty of sun and the temperature remains above 55-60F. A small fan will help with pollination when they have flowers.

[Goodloe]

@ Crouch...
Hmmm...that's an interesting approach. Seems like it oughta work. Please keep us updated. Good luck!

Jon

[bower]

Crouch, I don't know about your climate but I have many times used my greenhouse to grow up tomatoes in pots, then put them outdoors when the plants are already well established. It does give them a head start, no question.
We have cool temperatures here that slow down growth and especially ripening. That is doubtless not a problem for your zone. Give it a try, you should get earlier fruit.

[oakley]

I do that every year now. I have a South facing big slider kitchen door that gets great sun before
the leaves fill out on the forest trees. Just some early starts and last year some Winter grown micros. Not the
entire garden of toms but I do start an early tray. *that tray is often just a germination test
and if all goes well and healthy I pot some up.

Once the tree leaves fill out, the sun is high enough I still have good sun at that window and a part
of my deck. I use the basic easily moved around transparent crates. (not sure what a 'success
kit' is)

Once the weather has warmed and the plants are outside, they take off. I had a heap of cherries by mid June.
A few small slicers by the 4th of July. Not all Spring weather is so kind.

Some go to great lengths for early tomatoes...neighborhood bragging rights. Doesn't interest me.
But an easy half dozen plants without much effort is win-win.

[Al@NC]

Some people use wall of water (below), others use cold frames or hot frames (below) or even those cheap plastic greenhouses would allow you to get a week or two jump on the season. It just depends on your budget, situation including real estate and ingenuity... Then sometimes it does come down to varieties.

It's hard to get earlier blacks/purples without changing to smaller tomatoes. This is why I grow cherries, saladetes and smaller tomatoes so that I get them earlier while waiting on the 80 - 90 day beefsteaks.

Al

[greenthumbomaha]

I supplement my inground garden with a bucket garden, early varieties though. I start the plants late Jan and transplant about now. On a sunny 45 or higher degree day they go outside, returning to the garage at night. During extended cold periods they are allowed indoors and spend the night near the grow lights with their young siblings.

-Lisa

[Crouch]

Thanks to all. I’ll give it a shot with seed starting this weekend and will report back later in the season.

[edweather]

Yes, definitely get the seeds started. I used to live in Z5 in northern NY, and always started seeds on 3/15, and put them out 5/1 under protection. I grew in containers also. My plan was to get a June tomato, and 4 of 5 years it happened, but the variety was Stupice. Keep us posted.

[Nan_PA_6b]

I always suspected this would work, it's logical that a more developed plant would fruit sooner. But other people insist that putting out a larger plant doesn't get earlier fruit because "the small ones catch up quickly and there's no advantage" to putting out large ones. But y'all are disproving that.

Nan

[GrowingCoastal]

Not to discourage anyone from trying but...
Last year I started early and had to hold plants in the cold for a while. They had lots of fused blossoms and much fruit but still had to wait on the weather for them to ripen. None of them ripened early. They were planted into their final containers early on and kept protected but that seemed not to make any diff.
Other years I have had early ripening fruit. Depends on the weather here and that is not always the same from one year to the next.

[bower]

Too true there are downsides to starting early. I've learned to never judge a plant by its first fruit!

[jmsieglaff]

I've employed this technique with micro dwarf tomatoes with success. I start them early, then they go by a bright south facing patio door, going outside when the weather permits, back inside when it doesn't before they go out for good at some point in May.

[oakley]

Originally Posted by Nan_PA_6b

I always suspected this would work, it's logical that a more developed plant would fruit sooner. But other people insist that putting out a larger plant doesn't get earlier fruit because. "the small ones catch up quickly and there's no advantage" to putting out large onesBut y'all are disproving that.

Nan

You are correct but only a part of that, "the small ones catch up quickly and there's no advantage"
That is true for colder climates and garden planting when the soil is still very cold. A much
younger plant will often do much better than methods attempting to get ahead by a few
weeks using wall-o-waters, cold frames etc. I've tried them all but that was years ago. Too
much baby sitting for me.
Last season I was held up by bad weather and did not put in my indeterminate until mid June.

Like Jmsieglaff, I've been growing early and all Winter... micros, a few dwarfs, starting a tray
about every other month. Important to not be emotionally attached to success. Expect some
failures. Embrace the successes.

I just potted up 9 out of a full tray. Some dwarf and micro hunting as I have so many saved
seeds. I would not do any of this if it was a chore. Just survived a Nor'easter and another on
the way.
Not itching to plant as I already have multiple trays going....

Here are some last season pics. The crate of toms went out on the deck in a heap mid April on
the bench. I just let them cascade. Lots of cherry and saladettes a month/6 weeks before my
indeterminates went in the ground.....a cold week?, as we get in the NEast,...pull them back
in 5 ft away. Not a chore. Fortunately that never happened.

[Nan_PA_6b]

I'll bet having the larger ones in a full-size pot helps, so they can get their root development.

Nan