Various Irrigation Techniques

[Worth1]

Some time ago I tarted a thread and all of the pictures came up missing.
So I am starting it here again hopefully with the same pictures and and some new ones.
The first one here is a homemade water hammer arrester.
Water Hammer 2.jpg

If you have a lot of flow and pressure going to you garden the simple use of pipe and fittings will stop the hammer.
This hammer effect can cause problems such as fittings coming apart.
Since air compresses the pressure is absorbed by the air pocket in the chamber.



Worth

[Worth1]

I was going to start putting up drawings and such here but couldn't find the stuff on the computer.
So please stand by while I look for some again.

Here is a balanced soaker hose design it should be self explanatory.
This way you get the same pressure on long runs of soaker hose instead of it dropping out at the end.
Soaker hose loop.jpg

[Worth1]

More stuff.
Balanced drip Line.jpg

Flower pot set up.jpg

line through bottom of pot.jpg

[Worth1]

This is a test and only a test.
Something is whacked out with my paint program.


Drip set up2.jpg

[AlittleSalt]

Originally Posted by Worth1

This is a test and only a test.
Something is whacked out with my paint program.


Attachment 47479

This is what I have done so far.

[AlittleSalt]

After looking at the picture above, I realized I put it in facing the wrong direction. Here it is fixed.

[Worth1]

Drip line set up for garden.

Drip Line for garden 2.jpg

[zeuspaul]

Worth1, why the valve at the end of the drip line run? Looks like a ball valve? Is it to flush the line? Do you use auto flush end caps?

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by zeuspaul

Worth1, why the valve at the end of the drip line run? Looks like a ball valve? Is it to flush the line? Do you use auto flush end caps?

It is a flush valve and for a few other things like maybe something growing on a fence.
It gives you a little more flexibility.
The particular place this is at puts out only 6 gallons a minute and the combined system uses 3.6 gallons a minute total.
So I figured why not the valves instead of a plug cap or so forth.
This way a person can run a line to a fence and water that while they cut off one of the other lines.
This 1/2 barb valves are pretty cheap and they work good.

Besides I dont like the cheap #%$& things they sell where you bend the line back into its self.
Worth

[AlittleSalt]

I like the idea of a valve at the end. Besides a way to flush the line, it would also promote expansion if needed. = valve for future. Things change in a garden.

[peppero]

Thanks for the post Worth; this will save some time for a lot of us.

jon

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by peppero

Thanks for the post Worth; this will save some time for a lot of us.

jon

Some of this stuff will make you pull your hair out.
They make two different barb valves one is for 16MM and the other is for 17MM.
I had to go to the manufacturers web site to find out which one to use.

I think that is why the drip kits are so popular, people dont have to go through all of the research.
The tees are the universal tees that will fit both the drip line and drip tubing.
Drip tubing has no holes and drip line does.

Here is the 200 mesh drip filter with flush valve.
You can hook a hose up to the end of the valve so you dont flood the area if you dont want to.
I highly recommend using the 200 mesh filter in any type of irrigation system.


These are the barbed valves.

This is the adjustable regulator.

Faucet vacuum breaker to prevent contaminating the water supply.

Needs to be at least around 16 inches above the highest drip point.
A water hose can go from here to the hose adapter so the filter regulator assembly could be mounted on a post or fence.
It all doesn't have to hang off of the faucet.


Pipe to hose adapter.

Pipe coupling to go from male hose adapter to filter.

Adapter to go from regulator to drip tubing.
The tubing fits inside the adapter.



Yes I know there are a thousand ways to do this.
But lets say a person wanted to make up a kit to sell and the buyer didn't want to have to go out and buy a hose clamp or rig it in some other way this would be a way to do it.

Jon your welcome.

Worth

[EBCIII]

Originally Posted by Worth1

Some of this stuff will make you pull your hair out.
They make two different barb valves one is for 16MM and the other is for 17MM.
I had to go to the manufacturers web site to find out which one to use.

I think that is why the drip kits are so popular, people dont have to go through all of the research.
The tees are the universal tees that will fit both the drip line and drip tubing.
Drip tubing has no holes and drip line does.

Here is the 200 mesh drip filter with flush valve.
You can hook a hose up to the end of the valve so you dont flood the area if you dont want to.
I highly recommend using the 200 mesh filter in any type of .


These are the barbed valves.

This is the adjustable regulator.

Faucet vacuum breaker to prevent contaminating the water supply.

Needs to be at least around 16 inches above the highest drip point.
A water hose can go from here to the hose adapter so the filter regulator assembly could be mounted on a post or fence.
It all doesn't have to hang off of the faucet.


Pipe to hose adapter.

Pipe coupling to go from male hose adapter to filter.

Adapter to go from regulator to drip tubing.
The tubing fits inside the adapter.



Yes I know there are a thousand ways to do this.
But lets say a person wanted to make up a kit to sell and the buyer didn't want to have to go out and buy a hose clamp or rig it in some other way this would be a way to do it.

Jon your welcome.

Worth

Worth Why do you recommend a Mesh Filter on any kind of irrigation system that you will use? I have well water, I am curious? Beale.

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by EBCIII

Worth Why do you recommend a Mesh Filter on any kind of irrigation system that you will use? I have well water, I am curious? Beale.

Because you dont know what is coming down the pipe.

If it isnt lilted out you can stop up the drip system and with drip lines they are preety much done for when the little holes stop up.

If you have purchased an expensive reduced pressure assembly like I have it will also help save it.
Here is one.

This just isn't a back flow device it is required if you are going to use any fertilizer injection in your system.
What it does if the pressure on the inlet side get below the presuer on the outlets side water will drip out the bottom.
You see these all of the time in town and this is what the big ones look like.
http://www.co.lake.ca.us/Assets/Spec...Images/CC4.jpg

Since you are on well water I would suggest you get at least a vacuum breaker for the supply to your garden.
This will keep anything from siphoning back into your well.
Once that stuff gets in your well it is done for.
If it is on an an aquifer everyone's water is contaminated.
Vacuum breaker.
A simple hose bib one at least.
They are only like 5 dollars


Worth

[kellymc]

Originally Posted by Worth1

The tees are the universal tees that will fit both the drip line and drip tubing.
Drip tubing has no holes and drip line does.

These universal compression fittings are the best -- not just for tubing to drip line, but because different brands of drip systems have slightly different inner and outer diameters in their 1/2-inch tubing. So the barb connectors from one may not hold onto the tubing from another. These fittings hold onto everything, so you can mix and match.