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Old July 13, 2019   #16
Guavatone
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Thanks.. Wow! Everyone’s saying bleach. Tspn/gallon? Bleach scares me... it really works?

I thought too much water was slightly yellow? Are you sure it’s #4?

They seem happy with last nights Foliar aspirin.

Last edited by Guavatone; July 13, 2019 at 08:55 AM.
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Old July 13, 2019   #17
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Yep, picture #4 shows bumps on the stem. They are called 'root initials'. If the stem was to touch soil/mix, those bumps would grow roots. It's an easy way to see overwatering.
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Old July 13, 2019   #18
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Great tip. Thanks salt. I thought you were going by the shriveled up leaves. I guess I need to let the containers get dry to the verge of wilting.

Do hairs on the stems also mean too much water?
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Old July 13, 2019   #19
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Fungal?
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File Type: jpg IMG_4743.jpg (197.1 KB, 77 views)
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Old July 14, 2019   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b54red View Post
That is probably just some gray mold. Either spray with a copper spray or the bleach spray and it shouldn't be a problem if it is just starting. Is that a black tomato variety?
If it is it is almost certainly gray mold. Late Blight usually starts much higher up the plant at least it always has when I have been hit by it. If I had that few yellow leaves each year I would be very happy. Just remove them along with any other damaged or diseased leaves when you first spot them and apply a fungicide to lessen the severity of new diseases coming along.

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Thanks Bill. It’s not black. I think it may be moskvich or cosmonaut volkov

I have a plant 3-4 feet away having similar wilt. And still getting yellow/orange on middle branches on 1-2 and haven’t watered since Thursday rain
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Old July 14, 2019   #21
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Early blight and/or septoria - happens every year in humid, warm areas. Best to just remove blemished foliage, space plants appropriately. If you keep up with it, it doesn't kill plants. But the spores are on the backside of the foliage and can spread.
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Old July 14, 2019   #22
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Thanks NC! I think i’m Going to follow Bill’s advice on Clorox and try it on one plant.
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Old July 14, 2019   #23
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I find that the very best thing to do is just remove any lower foliage with blemishes. If you can keep ahead of it, there is no need to spray - but that is just my approach (I've never really sprayed anything on my plants ever, but I have the time to attend to them)
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Old July 15, 2019   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nctomatoman View Post
I find that the very best thing to do is just remove any lower foliage with blemishes. If you can keep ahead of it, there is no need to spray - but that is just my approach (I've never really sprayed anything on my plants ever, but I have the time to attend to them)
Thank you Craig. For whatever it might be worth, I agree with you. I did buy and read your Epic Tomatoes book.
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Old July 15, 2019   #25
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I guess this is you Craig/NC?

https://www.growingagreenerworld.com...epic-tomatoes/

I’m such a noob, but i’m trying to learn

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Old July 15, 2019   #26
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He's a mentor.
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Old July 15, 2019   #27
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Some plants are spaced 1 foot, some 2 feet. I just saw the video from the link I posted and it seems I have some similarities to Craig’s set up. I’m growing on a cement patio in square foot milk crates with landscape fabric lining the containers. 2 crates stacked on top of each other. The top crate has no fabric on the bottom so that the roots can make their way through to the bottom crate.
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Old July 15, 2019   #28
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Now that I can see the leaves clearly it looks like Early Blight to me. I agree about removing the leaves but would also apply Daconil. It seems to work the best of any of the fungicides I have tried on Early Blight. If it is Septoria I would use a copper spray.

I had a fairly bad outbreak of Early Blight and lost some fruit to sun scald because I had to remove so many leaves. It sometimes seems extreme but it sure helps in the long run.

Bill
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Old July 15, 2019   #29
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That nasty picture above was just one plant. The rest are yellow and orange, but some in the middle of the plant not bottom. I wonder if it makes sense to toss out the 2 worst out of 12 plants?

Yes it seems extreme with plants with not many healthy leaves. But I guess the risk of spreading is worse...

Do the spores stay in the soil after the plants’ roots are removed?

I sprayed Serenade bc that’s what I have and pulled 2 weak plants

Thanks Bill
-Charlie

Last edited by Guavatone; July 15, 2019 at 07:23 PM.
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Old July 15, 2019   #30
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One more question. It may be coincidence, but right before the fungal outbreak I had diatomaceous earth on the mid to lower leaves, that sat on the plant for 2-4 days until it rained. This was to target flea beetles that were chomping holes through my plants leaves.

Could diatomaceous earth cause some of these problems by smothering the leaves?
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