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General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.

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Old February 15, 2014   #16
Ken4230
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Default I have two "redneck" versions now

Mine are made from a 55 gal. plastic barrel cut in half. The center tube is made from 1/4" hardware cloth set inside a child's sandbox pail. I have used 3 lb. plastic coffee cans before.
I grow mostly lettuce, carrots, green onions.. ect in them. I started out just putting kitchen trimmings, coffee grounds and compost directly in the bottom of the pail. That was a huge mistake, it smelled to high heaven.
Now i fill the pail with 3/4" rock and cover it with weed barrier cloth. That seems to work really well.

I spent several months in a hospital in Japan in the late 60's and got to see some of the ways they garden. They practiced this concept but didn't use a container.
Most of the ones that weren't round usually had a short stone wall holding the soil in. The round ones were built by piling soil up in a big mound around a large pipe. 6" wide x 6" tall was about normal, if i remember right.
There wasn't a bare spot anywhere on the mounds. When they harvested something, they replanted right then.

I use bottomless coffee cans in my raised beds now. Vegie peelings, old cornbread and just about any dry scraps go in the cans and the lids go back on.

Ken
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Old February 15, 2014   #17
pondgardener
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Worth,

What would the drawbacks be of using all 3/4" PVC Sch40 for everything? Would the 3/4" bend enough? Or glue a bushing and then use 1/2" PVC Sch40 pipe for the outside wall circumference and 3/4" for the vertical bracing? The PVC is quite a bit cheaper than the EMT pipe.

George
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Old February 15, 2014   #18
bobberman
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Compost in a barrel work best if you add a shovel of garden soil once a week to cover the kitchen scraps. That will stop the smell! I also like to throw in a little hand full every 2 weeks of urea which you can buy cheap from Agway for less than a $1 a pound! It works just like manure!
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Old February 15, 2014   #19
Doug9345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pondgardener View Post
Worth,

What would the drawbacks be of using all 3/4" PVC Sch40 for everything? Would the 3/4" bend enough? Or glue a bushing and then use 1/2" PVC Sch40 pipe for the outside wall circumference and 3/4" for the vertical bracing? The PVC is quite a bit cheaper than the EMT pipe.

George
In Lowes 1/2" PVC pipe is $1.80 per 10' and EMT is $2.34. Given that EMT is stiffer, stronger and can be bent into a circle that doesn't straighten out when you let go of it, I think EMT is the way to go.

If I was building them, I'd be very tempted to build a jug so that I could use a hole saw to put a fish mouth on the vertical pieces and braze the whole thing together.
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Old February 15, 2014   #20
Worth1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pondgardener View Post
Worth,

What would the drawbacks be of using all 3/4" PVC Sch40 for everything? Would the 3/4" bend enough? Or glue a bushing and then use 1/2" PVC Sch40 pipe for the outside wall circumference and 3/4" for the vertical bracing? The PVC is quite a bit cheaper than the EMT pipe.

George
The only drawback would be the straight pieces.

If a person were to build one of the smaller round ones without the key slot it would be fine.
But the idea of bending the PVC to that small of a radius would be problematic.

What you can do is build a PVC heat box.
Expensive if you buy them.

Or get a heat gun.
What I do.


You would then be better off buying a sheet of plywood and building a jig that is curved to the radius you want.
If you cant do this or dont have the equipment you can get a cabinet shop to cut it out for you.

Once you have the right jig you would take the PVC cut at the right lengths and slowly heat it up you will want to cap off both ends, this will keep it from collapsing.
Move the heat gun up and down the pipe till it becomes flexible.
Don't scorch the pipe.
Bend the pipe around the jig/mandrel and spray some cold water on it so it will cool.

Once you have all of your bends and all of it put together you can then clean it up good with a scotch bright pad.
Buy some of that fancy paint that sticks to plastic and go to town painting the frame.

I wouldn't even bother with drilling all of those holes for tie wraps.
I would get some short self tapping screws to attach the frame to the roofing material.

Worth
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Old February 15, 2014   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug9345 View Post
In Lowes 1/2" PVC pipe is $1.80 per 10' and EMT is $2.34. Given that EMT is stiffer, stronger and can be bent into a circle that doesn't straighten out when you let go of it, I think EMT is the way to go.

If I was building them, I'd be very tempted to build a jug so that I could use a hole saw to put a fish mouth on the vertical pieces and braze the whole thing together.
I was thinking the same thing, with a drill press you could use the right hole saw and notch the vertical ends to fit the horizontal ends.
With my TIG welder this would be a breeze.
I want one of these so bad, I could and would do so much with it.
I already have all of the conduit benders for the small radius stuff.
Worth

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Old February 15, 2014   #22
pondgardener
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Doug9345,
You are right, the conduit would be sturdier. When I went to Lowes, I was pricing the rigid conduit and not the thin wall, so like you mentioned, the cost difference is not that great.

Worth,
Thank you for your help and descriptive post. I have used Sch40 pipe previously building a small protective framework for putting out early plants and as a cover for early season hailstorms, although we don't get those Texas-sixed hailstones here where I am at. And I should have done what you suggested instead of just assembling the whole structure and letting the sun decide how the shape would turn out.

George
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Old February 15, 2014   #23
bobberman
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The key hole garden can also be used as a cold frame and I thing the compost in the middle will warm up the early cold frame especially if some manure or urea was added in the middle container!
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Old February 15, 2014   #24
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Just a suggestion and I dont know how well it would work but electrical grade PVC conduit is sunlight resistant and can be used above ground.
It is a little floppier than water pipe.
It is also rated for heat bending.

The outside diameter is the same as PVC for water pipe and they have some oddball fittings that may be useful.

Worth
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Old February 15, 2014   #25
pondgardener
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Worth,

We are thinking along the same lines. I was rummaging through a pile of odds and ends in my shed and found a piece of Sch80 3/4" electrical conduit and inserted a piece of 1/2" EMT and it fit perfectly. Now to see if I can find tees to fit which shouldn't be a problem.

George
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Old February 15, 2014   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pondgardener View Post
Worth,

We are thinking along the same lines. I was rummaging through a pile of odds and ends in my shed and found a piece of Sch80 3/4" electrical conduit and inserted a piece of 1/2" EMT and it fit perfectly. Now to see if I can find tees to fit which shouldn't be a problem.

George

I need someone to come and rummage through my stuff and take it away.

I dont even want to see what they got.

Worth
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