white fly soap damage

encore · August 17, 2016

could this be from the soap solution i used for whitefiies or something else? it's on all the plants but peppere plants. ---thanks

ginger2778 · August 17, 2016

It could. Was the sun out when you sprayed?

encore · August 17, 2016

sprayed when sun went down, 2 nights in a row, was sunny both days after i sprayed. 2 1/2 tbsp. dawn---2 1/2 tbsp. vegetable oil to a gallon of water.

encore · August 17, 2016

should have maybe tried it on one plant first. lol

Cole_Robbie · August 17, 2016

I've never done well with soap sprays. I would guess that you got it too strong, and that dissolved the natural oils on the plant, which made it sun scald and burn the leaves, even though you didn't spray in full sun.

Met52 will take out your whiteflies, if you are looking for alternatives to Malathion, which is the chem rounte. Met52 is $60 a bottle, but I can get 2-3 years out of one bottle, and that is having a few hundred plants. Storing it in the refrigerator prolongs its shelf life.

The thing about spraying Malathion is that the protective equipment you should buy for yourself ends up costing ten times what the spray costs. So the cheap chemical spray is not that cheap if you factor in the costs of a respirator, gloves, glasses, and maybe a spray suit if you are extra careful.

creeker · August 17, 2016

Cole, when do you start spraying Met 52,i.e. at what size of plants, and at what intervals. It sounds like a possible solution to my TYLCV problem. Thanks in advance. Ron

Cole_Robbie · August 17, 2016

I try to wait until I see whiteflies first, but for the past two years, they have been out in early to mid June, So next year, I will just start spraying for them about that time.

I would really like to be able to wait until I see bugs before I spray, but at this point that looks like wishful thinking. I am starting to learn which bugs come out at what time. For me, from June through July, the order goes whiteflies, then stink bugs, then horn worms.

b54red · August 18, 2016

Since I spray a solution for all my problem pests that is basically the same and it has 2 TBS Dawn to the gallon of water I don't think it is the soap since I don't really measure that closely and I am sure I have used a higher amount. It could be the fact that you sprayed it two days in a row leaving a heavy buildup or it could be the oil mixed in the solution. I had trouble in the past with soap buildup causing some leaf damage due to buildup when I sprayed too often or too many times over the course of a few weeks.

I use a mix that has the Dawn but also Permethrin and food grade DE. The combination of the three has virtually eliminated whiteflies and aphids in my garden even though I was spraying for stinkbugs, leaf footed bugs or spider mites at the time. I think the residual of fine film of DE left on the leaves does a great job eliminating most of the newly hatched insects that come out after spraying while the Permethrin and Dawn get many of the adults within a short time after spraying.

Bill

Gerardo · August 18, 2016

DE/Neem/a few drops of soap has worked for me.
+/- permethrin depending on the tomato bugs' presence
(found a 34% racemic mixture at only 6 USD for 100 mL
down here, I add only a few mL to the mix and pow, right
in the kisser!)

Today for example, since I haven't used the above in
over a week, is a good day to spray Met52, as it is fungal spores.

I saw damage like the first post with a mix I made of
soap and mineral oil, sometimes they stay frozen for
a bit, and then decide to grow out of it. Sometimes they don't.

Let's not forget the sticky traps, they help too.

My two main enemies:

Die Die Die!

die die die2.jpg

Tomato Bug: you can see its long snout used to pierce
and suck the life out of new growth

death warrant 5.jpg

Shapshftr · August 20, 2016

Looks like some insect has been sucking the juices out of the leaves, leaving those pale spots. It also looks like they need a little nitrogen. Leaves are kind of pale.

creeker · August 20, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cole_Robbie

I've never done well with soap sprays. I would guess that you got it too strong, and that dissolved the natural oils on the plant, which made it sun scald and burn the leaves, even though you didn't spray in full sun.

Met52 will take out your whiteflies, if you are looking for alternatives to Malathion, which is the chem rounte. Met52 is $60 a bottle, but I can get 2-3 years out of one bottle, and that is having a few hundred plants. Storing it in the refrigerator prolongs its shelf life.

The thing about spraying Malathion is that the protective equipment you should buy for yourself ends up costing ten times what the spray costs. So the cheap chemical spray is not that cheap if you factor in the costs of a respirator, gloves, glasses, and maybe a spray suit if you are extra careful.

creeker · August 20, 2016

To anyone's knowledge will Met52 kill or control squash bugs?

Gerardo · August 20, 2016

Root aphids, thrips, whiteflies, vine weevils, aphids, russet mites, two-spotted spider mites, broad mites, and blemisia is what Novozymes claims.

It can be a little rough on the flowers.

0 post harvest interval is the cool part

Cole_Robbie · August 20, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by creeker

To anyone's knowledge will Met52 kill or control squash bugs?

Squash and stink bugs are some of the hardest to kill. Met52 will kill them if you hit them directly with the spray. It still takes about three days for them to die. I would guess there are more cost-effective ways to control squash bugs.

Met52 really shines with use on bugs whose population spirals exponentially out of control, like whiteflies and mites. Met52 is biological warfare. It's a bug disease. The dense population gives the disease a chance to spread.

creeker · August 20, 2016

Thanks Gerardo and Cole. Good information. Thats why I love this forum, I'm learning so much I wish I knew years ago.

August 17, 2016	#2
ginger2778 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10 Posts: 9,283	It could. Was the sun out when you sprayed?

August 17, 2016	#3
encore Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2015 Location: wisconsin Posts: 536	sprayed when sun went down, 2 nights in a row, was sunny both days after i sprayed. 2 1/2 tbsp. dawn---2 1/2 tbsp. vegetable oil to a gallon of water.

August 17, 2016	#5
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	I've never done well with soap sprays. I would guess that you got it too strong, and that dissolved the natural oils on the plant, which made it sun scald and burn the leaves, even though you didn't spray in full sun. Met52 will take out your whiteflies, if you are looking for alternatives to Malathion, which is the chem rounte. Met52 is $60 a bottle, but I can get 2-3 years out of one bottle, and that is having a few hundred plants. Storing it in the refrigerator prolongs its shelf life. The thing about spraying Malathion is that the protective equipment you should buy for yourself ends up costing ten times what the spray costs. So the cheap chemical spray is not that cheap if you factor in the costs of a respirator, gloves, glasses, and maybe a spray suit if you are extra careful.

August 17, 2016	#6
creeker Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Dec 2015 Location: Southern New Mexico Posts: 106	Cole, when do you start spraying Met 52,i.e. at what size of plants, and at what intervals. It sounds like a possible solution to my TYLCV problem. Thanks in advance. Ron

August 18, 2016	#8
b54red Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Alabama Posts: 7,068	Since I spray a solution for all my problem pests that is basically the same and it has 2 TBS Dawn to the gallon of water I don't think it is the soap since I don't really measure that closely and I am sure I have used a higher amount. It could be the fact that you sprayed it two days in a row leaving a heavy buildup or it could be the oil mixed in the solution. I had trouble in the past with soap buildup causing some leaf damage due to buildup when I sprayed too often or too many times over the course of a few weeks. I use a mix that has the Dawn but also Permethrin and food grade DE. The combination of the three has virtually eliminated whiteflies and aphids in my garden even though I was spraying for stinkbugs, leaf footed bugs or spider mites at the time. I think the residual of fine film of DE left on the leaves does a great job eliminating most of the newly hatched insects that come out after spraying while the Permethrin and Dawn get many of the adults within a short time after spraying. Bill

August 18, 2016	#9
Gerardo Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: San Diego-Tijuana Posts: 2,594	DE/Neem/a few drops of soap has worked for me. +/- permethrin depending on the tomato bugs' presence (found a 34% racemic mixture at only 6 USD for 100 mL down here, I add only a few mL to the mix and pow, right in the kisser!) Today for example, since I haven't used the above in over a week, is a good day to spray Met52, as it is fungal spores. I saw damage like the first post with a mix I made of soap and mineral oil, sometimes they stay frozen for a bit, and then decide to grow out of it. Sometimes they don't. Let's not forget the sticky traps, they help too. My two main enemies: Die Die Die! die die die2.jpg Tomato Bug: you can see its long snout used to pierce and suck the life out of new growth death warrant 5.jpg

August 20, 2016	#10
Shapshftr Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Illinois Posts: 162	Looks like some insect has been sucking the juices out of the leaves, leaving those pale spots. It also looks like they need a little nitrogen. Leaves are kind of pale.