How Soon before they turn red? - Page 2

angelique · June 13, 2006

Okay, I took the measurements on both peppers. It seems they are too small to eat per the plant tag.

My Corno di Toro is 5"
Per tag pick at 8-10"

My Jimmy Nardello is 6"
Per tag pick at 8"

Oh well, I guess I'll measure them again in another week.

barkeater · June 13, 2006

It was a fifteen year "study" in my farm fields where I grew about 2000 pepper plants per year (bell, fryer and hot). LOL. Not only that, I was "tutored" by 2 Italian farming families from the time I was 18, whose families had been tomato, eggplant, and pepper farmers since the 1800's. They also saved their own hot and frying pepper seeds. Their fryers were a foot long and the long hots (Hot Portugal types) were over a foot. No studies necessary after over a 100 years experience.

Don't piick that first set of peppers in the middle of the plant and you stunt the plant. Not only that, especially with Bells, they can all get caught up in the "crotch" of the plant where it branches out. Besides deforming the fruit, it can also cause a stem to crack off.

barkeater · June 13, 2006

angelique, the best way to tell if the pepper is ready is by squeezing it slightly. If it gives at all it is immature. It is usually a slightly lighter color than when mature, also.

angelique · June 13, 2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by barkeater

Their fryers were a foot long and the long hots (Hot Portugal types) were over a foot..

Do you have any seeds available?

Super pretty please with your favorite tomato on top!

barkeater · June 13, 2006

Unfortunately, no. The brothers with the hot peppers sold to developers the same year I quit farming in 2000.

The other farmers who raise the awesome frying peppers, Cresci Brothers, have a retail greenhouse business in Hazlet, NJ, near where Tomstrees lives. Now if he could get a six pack of fryers and grow them out we'd be set. (hint,hint) However, with peppers, you HAVE to either bag blossoms or isolate them as they cross so easy.

cmpman1974 · June 18, 2006

Thanks for the post about pulling pods off the plant. I will try that this year. Very interesting concept. I'll let everyone know my results. 100 years of experience is concrete enough for me!

Chris

June 18, 2006	#21
cmpman1974 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Michigan - Zone 6B Posts: 136	Interesting Thanks for the post about pulling pods off the plant. I will try that this year. Very interesting concept. I'll let everyone know my results. 100 years of experience is concrete enough for me! Chris

June 13, 2006	#16
angelique Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Rocklin, California Posts: 501	Okay, I took the measurements on both peppers. It seems they are too small to eat per the plant tag. My Corno di Toro is 5" Per tag pick at 8-10" My Jimmy Nardello is 6" Per tag pick at 8" Oh well, I guess I'll measure them again in another week.

June 13, 2006	#17
barkeater Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: NE Kingdom, VT - Zone 3b Posts: 1,439	It was a fifteen year "study" in my farm fields where I grew about 2000 pepper plants per year (bell, fryer and hot). LOL. Not only that, I was "tutored" by 2 Italian farming families from the time I was 18, whose families had been tomato, eggplant, and pepper farmers since the 1800's. They also saved their own hot and frying pepper seeds. Their fryers were a foot long and the long hots (Hot Portugal types) were over a foot. No studies necessary after over a 100 years experience. Don't piick that first set of peppers in the middle of the plant and you stunt the plant. Not only that, especially with Bells, they can all get caught up in the "crotch" of the plant where it branches out. Besides deforming the fruit, it can also cause a stem to crack off.