Okra Cross

[AlittleSalt]

I started gardening back in 2010. Okra was one of the things I wanted to grow most. I planted Crimson Spineless and it was okay. In 2011, I planted Emerald Velvet and liked those too. 2012- 2014 featured both in the same garden. In 2012, both grew true with huge healthy plants - planted in two rows 3' from each other - and I saved seeds. In 2013, I started seeing plants not as tall with a few long skinny okra that were too hard to eat and others that tasted good, so I saved seeds from only the good okra and none from the long skinny pods. Well, in 2014, the cross really showed up. Plants half grown at-best, producing okra that was too hard to eat at any stage of growth. There were long skinny okra and some that grew really short but Silver Dollar size around - I didn't save seeds.

I bought okra seeds from a reputable seed company this year - that grew stunted plants and okra that was too hard to eat as soon as they started to grow. I let some grow out and they were huge (Around) and about 4 inches long. I'm thinking they were a cross. I have pods dried and ready to save seeds, but I'm not going to save them because going two years without fresh okra is just too long.

Have any of you experienced okra crosses?

[Worth1]

No I haven't had a crossed okra and from the sound of it I hope I dont.
I haven't been able to grow okra in years but maybe this next summer I can.

Worth

[Ken B]

Since okra's got such huge flowers, it's real attractive to bees, needs a mile's isolation distance to be sure of pure seed... so it'd be easy for a wholesaler to mess up a seed growout if they're not careful.

[joseph]

I presume that my okra are highly cross-pollinating.

I don't understand why a cross would necessarily lead to woody seed pods, or stunted plants. Aren't all domesticated varieties selected to have tender pods if picked young enough? So even if they crossed shouldn't they still be tender when young? My experience with hybrids is that they often grow better than either parent.

If several different varieties produced woody seed pods, I'd be more inclined to look to growing conditions as an explanation.

[AlittleSalt]

Joseph, I have no doubt that the growing conditions factored in. It rained multi-inch rains almost every day during a six week period back in late April - the first week of June here. I haven't harvested the seeds but they are no longer in our garden. I am undecided on what to do with them yet. I guess I could save some seeds and plant them on the other end of our 10 acres. In our garden, I want to grow a tried and true variety for our area next spring/summer (Emerald Velvet or Crimson Spineless) We also have three varieties that Worth sent to us that I want to attempt to grow. The seeds are from 2007. I'm sure that I can figure out some place/s to plant other varieties without them crossing. It would make me happy to be able to send Worth new seeds from those he sent to us.

[imp]

You can always bag the blossoms and be able to save seed that way.

Though I would not plant as close as 3 feet to each other- maybe have something tall between them such as corn or indeterminate tomatoes?

[Worth1]

I think if not know the reason for the hard pods is slow growth.
It is a well known fact that the faster the pod grows the bigger it will get and still be tender.
How do you get this?
Tons of water and nutrients like nitrogen.
Never let the soil dry out.
This is the reason for so many differing opinions on how big to let the pod get before picking.

Worth

[Starlight]

To keep from getting crosses, this year I only grew out one okra and that was Heavy Hitter so I could have pure seed. Seeing this thread reminds me that I need to see if they are still alive three plants of a white Okra from a think it is a TN heirloom that a friend had brought back and shared from there. I'm hoping maybe I can get the plants to grow fast enough before frost as I haven't seen a white Okra before.

Weather has paid a big role in Okra production here this year. About the time the flowers all started blooming the heat was on. My plants are no where as large as they should be this year. I've had alot of pods, but have let most all of them get hard to save seed from.

The one Okra that I grew that was a good producer, tasted great, produced the perfect size pods for eating and made only 2 1/2 to 3' plants and didn't make my arms itch was a hybrid called Baby Bubba.

I know I'll be getting more seed of it and planting them. Had firm, good flavored Okra from Baby Bubba.

[dahoss2002]

I really never noticed any crosses. I grow 3 varieties right beside one another. Emerald, Burgundy, and Beck's Bad Boy. Save seed every year by just throwing a few whole dry pods in different bags and so far, the seeds produce true to the pod they came from. I will keep alert to a cross from now on though.

[clkeiper]

Mine is worthless this year. I planted it the first of June... right before the monsoon started and now it is about 1' tall and finally flowering, but the pods are as woody as can be. We have had no rain since the end of June and everything.... even the weeds, is wilted. good thing my customer who has asked for it the last two years hasn't been here this Summer.

[AlittleSalt]

Originally Posted by clkeiper

Mine is worthless this year. I planted it the first of June... right before the monsoon started and now it is about 1' tall and finally flowering, but the pods are as woody as can be. We have had no rain since the end of June and everything.... even the weeds, is wilted. good thing my customer who has asked for it the last two years hasn't been here this Summer.

We had okra grow stunted like that, and it proved that once stunted - it never grew out of that stage. That's what happened here in May and June.