![]() |
#1 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Omaha Zone 5
Posts: 2,514
|
![]()
I've just started reading about isolation for peppers, and there is a lot of general information but I have still more questions. This is not for going the tulle route (which I will do in the city where space is limited), just spacing in a large garden.
I read 30 feet is suggested between hot and sweet, buildings in between help, and planting pollinator plants attract pollinators on their journey and they drop pollen by the flowers before continuing to a pepper. Before I even start on details, is 30 feet an adequate minimum? Should I grow my "hots' bed north and bells south garden end or vise versa? Grow all cayennes of one variety together , another variety yet isolate again, with flowers in between? What are good examples of that pollinator plants that would make a likely pollinaor get so excited that it would stop and get the old pepper pollen off (more sticky pollen?) As you can see I am a novice at large scale isolation, and I would prefer to overthink than bite into a hot marconi next year. - Lisa |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 3,194
|
![]()
I use organza bags to cover the flower buds.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Williamsburg VA Zone 7b
Posts: 1,110
|
![]()
Nan:
When you bag your blossoms (tomato or pepper) - does the bag ever damage the blossom? Seems like a good percentage of my blossoms fall off. Tips? Jeff |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 3,194
|
![]()
If the tomato plants are diseased, the bagged flowers might abort.
I tried bagging the first pepper blossoms this past summer and many did fall off. I don't know how much the bag contributed. Then I started putting the bag over the whole stem, trying to avoid any bag/flower contact. The less it touched the flower, the better it worked. Maybe later flowers are tougher or maybe all pepper flowers hate to be touched; I don't know. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Williamsburg VA Zone 7b
Posts: 1,110
|
![]()
Thank you. I'll give it a try.
Jeff |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Southeast Kansas
Posts: 878
|
![]()
Unless you can distance separate varieties by at least 1/4 mile bagging is the only way to get pure seed.
This may answer some of your questions - https://www.southernexposure.com/iso...rs-ezp-34.html |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 5,931
|
![]()
Sometimes it’s easier to bag the whole plant, depending on the plant.
A tomato cage and tulle or is other fine mesh will work KarenO |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Williamsburg VA Zone 7b
Posts: 1,110
|
![]()
Thanks KarenO - may try that too. I have some mosquito netting we used to use on missions trips -that should work.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Illinois, zone 6
Posts: 8,407
|
![]()
I would think that prevailing wind direction would be relevant as well. Pollen travels a lot farther with the wind than against it.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
BANNED FOR LIFE
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 13,333
|
![]()
This won't help, but every variety of every plant ever was a hybrid or the first of it's kind. How to isolate it is a mankind thing. Tossing a condom on it should work, but that's not how nature works.
Lisa, I apologize. I believe in nature more than mankind. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Williamsburg VA Zone 7b
Posts: 1,110
|
![]()
On the other hand, Salt, much of my work over the years has been to overcome or improve on "nature:"
disease is natural, poverty is natural, weeds are natural . . . I won't even get into raising a teen! ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Zone 5A, Poconos
Posts: 959
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Williamsburg VA Zone 7b
Posts: 1,110
|
![]()
Good thread on isolation of peppers - including gluing the blossoms closed.
I got the glue last year - but didn't find the time to try it. http://tomatoville.com/showthread.ph...ht=pepper+glue |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Virginia Bch, VA (7b)
Posts: 1,337
|
![]()
I may try bagging blossoms next year. I’ve bought these little muslin bags about 4 years ago for this purpose and never tried it once.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 313
|
![]()
I've been curious about the gluing method for years, but still have questions regarding the proper glue. The glue mentioned in the link is "pva", but the photo looks like Elmers or equivalent. If anyone here has used this method successfully, could you clarify what glue has proven to be effective?
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
|
|