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Old August 7, 2017   #61
SharonRossy
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I do have daconil which I bought several years ago when I was visiting home. You can't get it here in Quebec anymore. Does it have a shelf life? It's been in my garage which we do heat in winter. I have just been reluctant to use it.
Bill, serenade has worked for me - however, I confess that I have not been that diligent with it. I have had good results with copper. Sulfur is another one I have stayed away from.
Ray, thanks for the article. So far only one plant, NAR is showing some disease but nothing serious and whatever it is has stayed only on NAR. I have sprayed the other plants with Serenade and will spray again with copper if necessary.
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Old August 8, 2017   #62
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I used sulfur in the past to control spider mites and it worked great but there was one big problem. Down here it is a rare thing to have spider mites when the temperatures are not over 90 and sulfur will definitely damage the foliage if it is used when it is too hot.

Sharron I'm surprised you can't get Daconil because it is so widely available down here. Why don't you spray the NAR plant having the disease issues with copper and then the next day spray it with the old Daconil you have. I have no idea what kind of disease you are dealing with on the plant. If you think it might be LB then you will need to spray all your plants with the diluted bleach spray and probably remove the NAR plant and hope you aren't too late.

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Old August 8, 2017   #63
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I used long ago sulfur against powdery mildew. It didn't really work but I swore I would never use the stuff again. The smells just stays for a long time. You get any on the tomatoes, you can forget about eating. No matter how much I washed them it still had a bit of taste.
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Old August 8, 2017   #64
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Sharon, is all chlorothalonil unavailable, or just the brand name Daconil? It can also go under the name of Ortho Max and Bravo down here. IIRC, it sometimes goes by Echo in Canada.
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Old August 11, 2017   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b54red View Post
If you keep worrying about your good bugs you won't have any live tomato plants to worry about. With mites it is an all or nothing deal in the heat we have down here. You have to stop them and you have to keep stopping them and that can result in killing some or all of the good bugs also but they will come back as will the mites.

Bill
I took me a while to get the 10% Perm and DE. To hold me over I sprayed with Spinosad last weekend. Yesterday evening I sprayed with DE-Permethrin mix.
The dawn really helped it stick as all plants looked to be covered in a white frost.

Sunday evening I am going to add Copper to the mix and reapply it again. I have destroyed several plants beyond help. I also sprayed a few cucumber plants that were infected. The bugs are definitely assassin long pipes (see pic) but unfortunately the mites were winning the war so all in the path may be casualties.

Bill when do these pests stop reproducing? October?
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Old August 11, 2017   #66
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Daconil is also marketed as Broad Spectrum Fungicide
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Old August 11, 2017   #67
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Quote:
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I took me a while to get the 10% Perm and DE. To hold me over I sprayed with Spinosad last weekend. Yesterday evening I sprayed with DE-Permethrin mix.
The dawn really helped it stick as all plants looked to be covered in a white frost.

Sunday evening I am going to add Copper to the mix and reapply it again. I have destroyed several plants beyond help. I also sprayed a few cucumber plants that were infected. The bugs are definitely assassin long pipes (see pic) but unfortunately the mites were winning the war so all in the path may be casualties.

Bill when do these pests stop reproducing? October?

I had one season of Assassin bugs galore and had a virtual pest free season that year and never had to spray but haven't seen more than an occasional one since then. I have no idea why I had so many of them that year but I would see hundreds of them some days. Now the only bug that looks similar that shows up in numbers are leaf footed bugs and stink bugs. I did have a couple of assassin bugs on my squash this year but that was all I have seen.

As to mites stopping in October it all depends on the heat and whether it stays hot and dry. Last year I was still having mites show up in October but not as bad as earlier but last year was extremely hot and dry right up until mid November here.
You should see a real decline in mite activity if the DE doesn't get rained off the plants.

I lost several plants last year because I allowed them to get too bad on the plants before spraying but most survived and thrived until they froze. Some of them looked pretty bad after I clipped all the badly damaged foliage off of them but with a big dose of TTF and good watering they recovered well.

I found a half dozen plants with mites a few days ago and sprayed everything with Permethrin, DE, Dawn and Copper. My plants are nice and hazy looking now but the mites seem to be stopped for now despite the 100 degree heat. I had to go out and water them all yesterday and there is a 50% chance of rain for the next few days.
I also give my plants a good feeding of TTF and pruned them just before watering and fertilizing.

Good luck.

Bill
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Old October 14, 2017   #68
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Hi Experts

I have a new one for you.

For fall I planted a few PL varieties. To be honest I lost track of what is what so these plants could be RL and I would not know for sure.

Anyway the leaves seem to have a yellow/green look but it's not due to watering issues.
Now some leaves are curled or stunted. Is this a disease or nutrient issues?
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Old October 14, 2017   #69
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Quote:
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Hi Experts

I have a new one for you.

For fall I planted a few PL varieties. To be honest I lost track of what is what so these plants could be RL and I would not know for sure.

Anyway the leaves seem to have a yellow/green look but it's not due to watering issues.
Now some leaves are curled or stunted. Is this a disease or nutrient issues?
These are PL leaves that you are showing and they have a nutrient deficiency. They need some magnesium which you can easily supply them by watering them with a solution of 1 tablespoon of Epsom salts to 1 gallon of water. You can also use this mixture as a spray. Your plants should perk up rather quickly after feeding them this.
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Old October 14, 2017   #70
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Thanks ... I will add epsom
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Old October 14, 2017   #71
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After research I am also concerned that it could be Mosaic Virus.

http://www.tulsamastergardeners.org/...atomosaic.html
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Old October 14, 2017   #72
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The two conditions can appear quite the same. I'm not saying that it is not Mosaic virus, but it sure is an easier fix to try using the Epsom Salts first. I will always try the curable way before I tell someone to pull out their plants. Most often is is the mg deficiency and not something for which there is not cure. Hopefully your plants will perk up within a few days after feeding them.
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Old October 16, 2017   #73
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Best to remove that plant. I don't think it's going to recover. Once the leaves stay straight like that, that tip will not become normal again, maybe cutting it and letting another one come up. Also being a virus is a pretty high possibility.
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Old October 16, 2017   #74
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Quote:
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After research I am also concerned that it could be Mosaic Virus.

http://www.tulsamastergardeners.org/...atomosaic.html
It's Tomato Yellow Leaf Curl Virus, it comes from whiteflies, I would know it anywhere. Your plant is hopeless, and worse, more whiteflies will feed from it and infect the next tomato to it. Pull it immediately!
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #75
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Thanks!!! I agree and the curl / blistering is the driver for me.
I actually have 2 of them and both are PL varieties.
Can this infect RL varieties also?
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