Leaf disease? What is this?

OzoneNY · February 11, 2016

THe leaves feel slimy then they dry up and thats it. This plant looks like it may not make it, bit if there is a chance it spread then all my plants are done before the season even got started. Any one see this before?

IMG_20160211_222626426.jpg

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decherdt · February 12, 2016

If the yellow spots are raised like a gall or a wart, I would guess edema. Then I'd dry 'em out some and get them some sunlight, "Blue light and to a lesser extent green light have been shown to prevent edema development in plants such as tomatoes," http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/does_li...pment_of_edema

Worth1 · February 12, 2016

Looks like over water and over nitro to me.
What have you been doing and where has it been inside or out what kind of lights if inside?

Take the plant out of the container and wash off the roots soil and all and put it in new soil it might live.

Worth

OzoneNY · February 12, 2016

they been under the grow light for 2 weeks but we are having mild weather so I will set them out for the next day or two. I may have over fed them. I only used compost tea and kelp with a very small dab of MG.

guruofgardens · February 12, 2016

They look overwatered and overfed.

I like Worth's advice to wash and repot with new soil, preferably not MG or one with ferts.

Worth1 · February 12, 2016

It really would be best to wash the soil and roots off if that stuff is still in there it will continue to kill the plant.
It doesn't have much of a chance other wise.
I have had to do it before.
The ones I didn't do it to died even after I flushed water through the container.

Yesterday when I was potting up some of my Orange Russian that is what I did so I could get the plants lower in some of the smaller containers.
I washed the soil out of the root ball spread the roots out in the bottom of the container and used new soil.
Those plants never even knew it happened and are as happy as a clam today with no transplant shock what so ever.

Worth

February 13, 2016

They might need some extra phosphorus. At least one leaf looks a little purple underneath. If what other people say is true about overfertilization, if you add phosphorus, don't add any more nitrogen (just phosphorus). If the variety is supposed to have purple veins like that, you can probably ignore the idea that it might be phosphorus deficient. It should be noted that there may be sufficient phosphorus, but other nutrients might be making the phosphorus less available.

I was going to say the leaves in the first picture look like they were frozen, and those rumply bubble-like bumps look sort of like edema. But, if they weren't frozen, the condition in the first picture looks quite unfamiliar to me, unless this variety of tomato just looks different than others. What variety is it?

Repotting as suggested earlier will probably help whatever the problem is, if it's nutritional (so long as you have good soil in the new pot).

ginger2778 · February 13, 2016

I think it would be a safe thing to spray them with a half of lowest recommended(in other words weak) liquid copper fungicide because you did say the leaves were slimy, and the picture looks like grey mold. Have they been where it was cold and humid or wet? Even wet with morning dew?

Worth1 · February 13, 2016

I had one or two plants some time ago that the leaves damped off and got slimy I just pinched the leaves off and sprayed with Hydrogen peroxide.

This stuff can come out of nowhere.

Worth

February 13, 2016

@Worth

Did it work well? Be careful with hydrogen peroxide. I contacted the manufacturer of mine and found out it had organophosphates in it, as a stabilizer. The food grade kind wouldn't have that in, though, I'm pretty sure.

Worth1 · February 13, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by shule1

@Worth

Did it work well? Be careful with hydrogen peroxide. I contacted the manufacturer of mine and found out it had organophosphates in it, as a stabilizer. The food grade kind wouldn't have that in, though, I'm pretty sure.

I know just about everything a person would want to know about hydrogen peroxide.

Worked around some stuff that was almost 100% very dangerous.
It is an oxidizer that if you get on organics such as boot leather it will burst into flames.

Yest it works great what I do is put 1 to 2 parts household 3% hydrogen peroxide to 9 to 10 parts water Maybe a little more lately.
Am am now using a 12 ounce spray bottle and putting 2 ounces of the stuff in and filling it up with RO water to over the 12 ounce mark.

I have experimented and used it to the point the soil foamed a wee bit to no ill effect to the plant.
I start doing this as soon as the seedling emerges from the soil here are my steps.
Squirt or spray with water bottle with a 1/4 to 1/2 strength MG plant food.
Then go back and hit everything with the hydrogen peroxide.
I do this every time.
Also I bottom feed and water but I still go back and spray with some plants.

The concept of burning roots on small plants with fertilizer in my opinion is wrong.
If this is happening you are getting your concentrations too hot and or using to often.

My reasoning behind this is if a seed sprouts in the soil with the right amount of nutrients it wont die it will grow.
You dont want seedlings sitting around for days on end starved of food you want them to grow as fast as they can.

Worth

OzoneNY · February 14, 2016

So I took about half of my plants and washed the soil from the roots and then re-pot them in clean pot mix, no additives and slightly larger pot. They were all nearly root bound in the small pots and in the last 48 hours since doing this, the plants all look significantly better. With this, the problem is going to be space since they are growing so fast and my first plant out data is not for another 4 weeks. Last year I started too late, this year I started too early. Next year I should about get it right

Worth1 · February 14, 2016

Quote:

Originally Posted by OzoneNY

So I took about half of my plants and washed the soil from the roots and then re-pot them in clean pot mix, no additives and slightly larger pot. They were all nearly root bound in the small pots and in the last 48 hours since doing this, the plants all look significantly better. With this, the problem is going to be space since they are growing so fast and my first plant out data is not for another 4 weeks. Last year I started too late, this year I started too early. Next year I should about get it right

I am so glad to hear this I have been sitting on pins and needles waiting for the outcome.
Maybe just maybe this year you can plant out sooner.
You are in a raised bed the soil warms up faster you should have spares and you only have 12 to worry about.
Pour the coals to them and get them in one gallon pots soon.
There isn't another freeze predicted for your are for the rest of the season.
You cannot set dates you have to go year by year in Texas,

Worth

OzoneNY · February 14, 2016

I think your right. Looks like I will potentially set them out Feb 20 weekend. And as of today, they are all in 1 gallon pots

February 11, 2016	#1
OzoneNY Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Frisco Texas Posts: 390	Leaf disease? What is this? THe leaves feel slimy then they dry up and thats it. This plant looks like it may not make it, bit if there is a chance it spread then all my plants are done before the season even got started. Any one see this before? IMG_20160211_222626426.jpg IMG_20160211_222450890.jpg

February 12, 2016	#2
decherdt Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Fort Worth, TX Posts: 329	If the yellow spots are raised like a gall or a wart, I would guess edema. Then I'd dry 'em out some and get them some sunlight, "Blue light and to a lesser extent green light have been shown to prevent edema development in plants such as tomatoes," http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/does_li...pment_of_edema Last edited by decherdt; February 12, 2016 at 09:37 AM.

February 13, 2016	#7
shule1 Guest Posts: n/a	They might need some extra phosphorus. At least one leaf looks a little purple underneath. If what other people say is true about overfertilization, if you add phosphorus, don't add any more nitrogen (just phosphorus). If the variety is supposed to have purple veins like that, you can probably ignore the idea that it might be phosphorus deficient. It should be noted that there may be sufficient phosphorus, but other nutrients might be making the phosphorus less available. I was going to say the leaves in the first picture look like they were frozen, and those rumply bubble-like bumps look sort of like edema. But, if they weren't frozen, the condition in the first picture looks quite unfamiliar to me, unless this variety of tomato just looks different than others. What variety is it? Repotting as suggested earlier will probably help whatever the problem is, if it's nutritional (so long as you have good soil in the new pot). Last edited by shule1; February 13, 2016 at 02:11 AM.

February 12, 2016	#3
Worth1 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Den of Drunken Fools Posts: 38,539	Looks like over water and over nitro to me. What have you been doing and where has it been inside or out what kind of lights if inside? Take the plant out of the container and wash off the roots soil and all and put it in new soil it might live. Worth

February 12, 2016	#5
guruofgardens Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2008 Location: zone 5 Colorado Posts: 942	They look overwatered and overfed. I like Worth's advice to wash and repot with new soil, preferably not MG or one with ferts.

February 13, 2016	#8
ginger2778 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10 Posts: 9,283	I think it would be a safe thing to spray them with a half of lowest recommended(in other words weak) liquid copper fungicide because you did say the leaves were slimy, and the picture looks like grey mold. Have they been where it was cold and humid or wet? Even wet with morning dew?

February 14, 2016	#12
OzoneNY Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Frisco Texas Posts: 390	So I took about half of my plants and washed the soil from the roots and then re-pot them in clean pot mix, no additives and slightly larger pot. They were all nearly root bound in the small pots and in the last 48 hours since doing this, the plants all look significantly better. With this, the problem is going to be space since they are growing so fast and my first plant out data is not for another 4 weeks. Last year I started too late, this year I started too early. Next year I should about get it right