new tomato trellis idea

[Salsacharley]

My 2x3's are standard studs, screwed into the wood beds. They only cost a little over $2 each which was much cheaper than PVC. I used jute twine last year and spiraled the plants up the twine, but that was costly for 180 plants. This year I'm using poly twine and I'm going to use the Florida Weave with only 108 plants instead of pruning and spiraling. I got 3000 clips but they are labor intensive, too, so I plan on only using them in special situations. I got the link for the twine (10,000 ft spool) from Carolyn Phillips in her "Just Showing Off" thread.

http://hydro-gardens.com/growsup1.htm

Originally Posted by luigiwu

Love these pictures! I would think the bottom conduit would help with bracing?

Salsa Charley, How tall are your 2x3 (8ft or 10ft or?) and are they buried in the ground or only nailed/screwed to the wood beds? Also what kind of twine are you using? Are you just twirling the plant around the string or are you using clips?

but again, I'm shocked to hear that these conduits don't sag. I was thinking of using rebar coz I am that paranoid?

No issues with the wind just blowing everything over?

[Salsacharley]

That's a nice setup too Rob. It does look costly and labor intensive for larger scale growing. Those are some good looking fruit on your plants!

Originally Posted by wally mcgee

Here is my set up last year. You can see I had tomato cages incorporated in the mix. I decided it would be very costly to do the same as I am now growing more plants. That's why I am switching to the new system. It is also easier to set up.

[Worth1]

If a person were to use re-bar the weight of the re-bar would off-set any advantage over it being solid.
Tubing on the other hand is lite and would have almost no weight in the middle.
Also since there is a foot sticking out on both sides with tomatoes hanging from the ends.
This would counter the weight at the one foot mark on the other side of the up-rite..
Then in reality you would be supported up to the 4 foot mark.
If a person were worried they could always use 3/4 EMT conduit or run a cable from the end of the top cross bar to the inside of the bottom cross bar.
This is a cantilever and is used in construction of buildings and bridges.

Worth

[z_willus_d]

Quick, question/concern- My experience with the white PVC pipe like you're using is that it will break-down over a year or two under the sun's UV rays. I would be worried that your main PVC support posts will crack and grow brittle with time. If you paint or treat them in some way, you can probably provide some protection to delay that demise. Nice setup BTW!
-naysen

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by z_willus_d

Quick, question/concern- My experience with the white PVC pipe like you're using is that it will break-down over a year or two under the sun's UV rays. I would be worried that your main PVC support posts will crack and grow brittle with time. If you paint or treat them in some way, you can probably provide some protection to delay that demise. Nice setup BTW!
-naysen

I would think any paint would block UV rays completely.
Any exposed PVC I have at home is painted.
I also read a report by a PVC manufacture that the new pipe doesn't break down as quick as the old stuff.

Worth

[wally mcgee]

What kind of paint should I use? It may have to wait till winter as my tomatoes are in the ground .

[Worth1]

Originally Posted by wally mcgee

What kind of paint should I use? It may have to wait till winter as my tomatoes are in the ground .

I would suggest wiping the pipe down with alcohol to clean and remove any oils left over from the manufacturing process.
Then scuff them up with a scotch brite pad or 100 grit sand paper.
Then get some of the paint that is made for plastic like Krylon Fusion home depot sells one by another brand.

Worth

[luigiwu]

Thanks for all the helpful advice in this thread guys!

[wally mcgee]

Thank you kindly

[luigiwu]

Last year I did/tried the florida weave with some home made 1x2 wood posts and it was not good. All came tumbling down at the end. I found it not all that great - cumbersome and didn't support that well. Its probably the 1x2 not being strong enough or my tension being too tight but I used jute and it seemed to degrade over the months of summer and with the weight of the plant/fruits. Maybe I just have bad weaving technique. From what I can tell the single string actually looks more substantial, especially if you can twirl the plant around the twine instead of using clips, and if the frame can support the strings. I just need to figure out the twine situation. I only have 15 plants, maybe I'll just get some paracord.

Originally Posted by Salsacharley

My 2x3's are standard studs, screwed into the wood beds. They only cost a little over $2 each which was much cheaper than PVC. I used jute twine last year and spiraled the plants up the twine, but that was costly for 180 plants. This year I'm using poly twine and I'm going to use the Florida Weave with only 108 plants instead of pruning and spiraling. I got 3000 clips but they are labor intensive, too, so I plan on only using them in special situations. I got the link for the twine (10,000 ft spool) from Carolyn Phillips in her "Just Showing Off" thread.

http://hydro-gardens.com/growsup1.htm

[Stvrob]

Originally Posted by Worth1

If a person were to use re-bar the weight of the re-bar would off-set any advantage over it being solid.
Tubing on the other hand is lite and would have almost no weight in the middle.
Also since there is a foot sticking out on both sides with tomatoes hanging from the ends.
This would counter the weight at the one foot mark on the other side of the up-rite..
Then in reality you would be supported up to the 4 foot mark.
If a person were worried they could always use 3/4 EMT conduit or run a cable from the end of the top cross bar to the inside of the bottom cross bar.
This is a cantilever and is used in construction of buildings and bridges.

Worth

This is the start of a great idea! I'm thinking of a pole bean trellis

[b54red]

I used the 1/2 inch conduit trellis for the last few years using 3 horizontal bars and tying the plants with sisal twine. The problem was all the tying and with our long season I always ended up with a mess later in the season no matter how much I pruned. The first two pictures show this trellis system.

Currently I am trying using 3/4 inch conduit along the top rail and 1/2 inch along the ground and tying baling twine between them. I will be using clips and some wrapping of the line around the stems to support the vines which I am going to have to limit to no more than 3 stems. It is easiest with just one stem but some plants need more for foliage cover. Everything is held together with zip ties. I sure hope it works because it is sure easier. The last few pics show this setup.

Bill

[Salsacharley]

Bill

That's a great looking setup. I can't imagine why it wouldn't work. Your plants look strong and healthy.

[Worth1]

Looks great nice healthy plants.

Worth

[wally mcgee]

Originally Posted by b54red

I used the 1/2 inch conduit trellis for the last few years using 3 horizontal bars and tying the plants with sisal twine. The problem was all the tying and with our long season I always ended up with a mess later in the season no matter how much I pruned. The first two pictures show this trellis system.

Currently I am trying using 3/4 inch conduit along the top rail and 1/2 inch along the ground and tying baling twine between them. I will be using clips and some wrapping of the line around the stems to support the vines which I am going to have to limit to no more than 3 stems. It is easiest with just one stem but some plants need more for foliage cover. Everything is held together with zip ties. I sure hope it works because it is sure easier. The last few pics show this setup.

Wow, looks great. Very impressive
Bill