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Old February 15, 2009   #31
lumierefrere
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I just haven't had much success in the last two years. I can swap out all the bulbs for new ones but I have swapped bulbs and have a spare waiting. Everything just gets so leggy while down at the farmer's market where they have a rudimentary greenhouse and no lights, everything is stocky and beautiful. That convinced me I had to try something else/try harder. Maybe using mylar to reflect more of the light will help, that was an element I wasn't aware of. The last 2 years have been such crummy growing seasons that I want the seedlings as great as they can be when I plant out because the weather sure isn't going to cooperate! Maybe I should start knitting coats for all the plants, too, what with the cool nights!
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Old February 15, 2009   #32
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Cool whites are around 4400k. During the grow phase you want ideally anything from 4400k up to 6400k with lights in the 5500k to 6400k (Blue) range preferred. For blooming your warm whites which are in the 2600k (Red) range are preferred. I'm looking for strong stocky seedlings hence my choice of the 5500k/6400k lights. Ami
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Old February 15, 2009   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lumierefrere View Post
I just haven't had much success in the last two years. I can swap out all the bulbs for new ones but I have swapped bulbs and have a spare waiting. Everything just gets so leggy while down at the farmer's market where they have a rudimentary greenhouse and no lights, everything is stocky and beautiful. That convinced me I had to try something else/try harder. Maybe using mylar to reflect more of the light will help, that was an element I wasn't aware of. The last 2 years have been such crummy growing seasons that I want the seedlings as great as they can be when I plant out because the weather sure isn't going to cooperate! Maybe I should start knitting coats for all the plants, too, what with the cool nights!
lol, I'm glad I'm not the only one that had less than mediocre growing seasons the past 2 years. I've learned more each time, but it is frustrating. I had gotten some tomatoes, eggplant, and canteloupes from a nursery, and even they were pretty much failures.

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Old February 15, 2009   #34
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Never used anything but cool white tubes
Just paid close attention to the height of the fixture and when I find seedlings getting too leggy, it's time for a transplant to the next size of cell/container/garden.
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Old February 16, 2009   #35
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Plant Lights are exorbitant.

You're perfectly fine to use 1 Cool White and 1 Daylight Deluxe.
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Old February 16, 2009   #36
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Everything just gets so leggy while down at the farmer's market where they have a rudimentary greenhouse and no lights, everything is stocky and beautiful.
Those stocky seedlings are grown in 50-60 degrees which makes them grow slower. Also, I found out that they are sprayed with growth inhibitors.

I just keep the light bulbs within 1 inch of the tops of the plants. Do you have a fan running on your plants to force them to grow stronger stems?

Keep in mind I've never had a problem with getting tomatoes even out of leggy plants.
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Old February 16, 2009   #37
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Another vote for plain cool white tubes. I've never had a problem getting stocky seedlings. I do pay close attention to keeping them very close to the tubes and my plants are in a cool room (55 - 62). Good luck.
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Old February 16, 2009   #38
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One cool, one warm...VERY close to the seedlings gets my vote as well!
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Old March 3, 2009   #39
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I have taken all the advice into account. Some tasks are more easily achieved than others--some are non-starters. I'll check the bulbs to make sure what I have. The mylar sheet suggestion really appealed to me so I decided to do that when I read it and just now acted upon it. You can get the mylar space blankets on ebay for $1.25. For the size of my set-up that's perfect and I don't mind cutting them up at that price.

Thanks for all the help.

Barb
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Old March 3, 2009   #40
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Finally got my lights wired up and here's what they look like lit up. Ami
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Old March 4, 2009   #41
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of the 25 types of tomatoes I have started this year I can not get the KBX to germinate. I purchased the seed in feb.and they been on heat mats for at least 10 days. It's getting to late to order more as I plant out in early April. Is this typical of KBX? dave
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Old March 4, 2009   #42
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I know Ray had some late germination with KBX seeds I sent him. I found one of my batches was slow to germinate but the others were up and running in a week. Don't give up the ship just yet, give them another 10. Ami
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Old March 4, 2009   #43
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Try placing the KBX mix/seeds in your oven with the oven light turned on and the oven door wedged open 1/4 inch. See if that will provide addition heat for the mix and assist in germination.

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