100% blight resistant tomato

[amideutch]

Crimson Crush seed will be available for the 2016 growing season and will feature in the Suttons Seed catalogue due out in September 2015.

[carolyn137]

What I've found over the years at many message sites is that lots of foks refer to blight as a generic way of indicating they have a sick plant. The don't distinguish between foliage diseases and systemic soilborne diseases such as Vert, Fusarium, RKN's, etc.

Yes, mulch can help prevent splashback infection when usually plants in a previous year have dropped fungal spores to the soil surface and the next year those spores can be bounced back to the foliage by rain or irrigation. All NEW foliage infections are acquired via wind and embedded in rain drops.

But mulch cannot help when the soil is infested, if you will, by the soilborne pathogens, however they got there in the first place and can remain there forever.

Carolyn

[Worth1]

I have found that when you mow dont allow dust to settle on your plants.
I always wait till the wind is in the right direction or only mow on the leeward not the windward side of the garden.
With all of the dust we have in the summer this helps tremendously.


Worth

[Redbaron]

Originally Posted by carolyn137

But mulch cannot help when the soil is infested, if you will, by the soilborne pathogens, however they got there in the first place and can remain there forever.

Carolyn

I wouldn't go quite that far Carolyn. Soilborne pathogens can be removed by a process called competitive exclusion. Mulch actually helps one do this.

[redonionite]

I sent an email to a person at Cornell Univ with an excel sheet and photo showing my plants and my comments; no response back
I live in Western Pa and we did have a wet summer. I show that I sprayed all plants with daconil 4 times and may have done 1 additional spraying of daconil

All my tomatoes were started from seed-early girl, best boy, better boy, ace, iron lady, goliath, rose de berne, oxheart, beefsteak. Some were planted in black plastic and others in new soil with mulch.

Bottom line is I was not pleased with Iron lady and as with other plants had blight. I really didn't see a significant difference for blight with iron lady.
My best results were with Best Boy

[Greatgardens]

Last summer in Indiana was relatively cool and wet, wet, wet. Septoria ate all my plants, but interestingly, Burpee's Orange Wellington fared the best and kept on producing new foliage and fruit. Mulch? Yes! I started growing my tomatoes in soil on plastic several years ago, and I could not believe the difference in reducing foliage diseases. But this year I'm going to use more resistant varieties, including Iron Lady and Mountain Spring Plus, and likely I'll spray Daconil a couple of times. The way this usually works, I'm "fighting last year's war," and this will be just a normal summer. :-) As for Crimson Crush, when seeds are available, it's probably worth a try.
-GG

[Linette]

Hi,

I'm not sure alternaria or septoria are as bad as late blight. It can destroy a whole crop in only a week.

Late blight can be a terrible problem for tomato growers in some areas, and with the rain we had this summer in western Europe and the virulent new mutations of phytophtora I wish we could have some good tasting resistant varieties.
I hope Crimson crush will prove as late blight resistant as they say, and that we will be able to get some seeds and test it in our gardens, if it isn't a hybrid.

I had nearly given up growing potatoes when I discovered sarpo mira. It is amazing, I just hope it will prove resistant to new mutations of phytophtora.

If only we could have an equivalent with tomatoes.
I've heard of a few varieties but I've been told they're very bland in taste. So if Crimson crush has resistance AND flavour, wonderful!
I know Tom Wagner is working on a few strains too.

Maybe in a few years we'll have interesting varieties for cold damp climates, and we'll be able to grow tomatoes outdoors and not only in greenhouses.

[nicollas]

It seems to me that Crimson Crush is an F1, look at the 'F1' icon on the right

http://www.suttons.co.uk/Gardening/V...971.htm#242971

[maf]

Hmm, that is new information. I hope this does not mean that Crimson Crush is not homozygous for both ph genes. I may skip on buying the very expensive plug plants this first year and work on my own segregating potentially LB resistant populations instead, while waiting for reports from the early adopters.

If someone needs some 100% late blight resistance seed to work with I have a few seeds of Magic Trick; and Skykomish from Tom Wagner. Probably only enough for one person. PM me if you would like some. One request has been filled. Offer fullfilled.

[snugglekitten]

From the website:

it has the PH2 and PH3 genes which make it resistant to all common British blight strains including what are known as “Pink 6” and “Blue 13”, the strains which have decimated outdoor tomato crops in recent years.

The key words here are "common" and "british."

This surely does not account for most blight strains you would see in the US.

[maf]

Originally Posted by snugglekitten

From the website:

"it has the PH2 and PH3 genes which make it resistant to all common British blight strains including what are known as “Pink 6” and “Blue 13”, the strains which have decimated outdoor tomato crops in recent years. "

The key words here are "common" and "british."

This surely does not account for most blight strains you would see in the US.

The best and most resistant strains in the US also have PH2 and PH3. See the work by Dr Randy Gardner for examples.

[crmauch]

I would have to politely disagree. All my tomato beds were mulched. All my beds were devastated by late blight.

Originally Posted by Cole_Robbie

Mulch is what prevents blight. The spores are in dirt, which splashes up on the lower part of the plant in a hard rain if you don't have mulch. The problem is so easy to fix with mulch -at least in my experience and location - that it seems a waste of breeders' talents to even attempt to address.

[Dutch]

Originally Posted by KarenO

Late blight spores can be carried by wind for miles which is what makes it such a huge problem and one that can wipe out entire crops within days.
Seems to me that the Royal Horticultural Society might have some know-how in their midst and I wouldn't be so hasty to nay say this new tomato without a fair try. Blight is not a huge problem in general where I live because the spores cannot survive the deep cold winters here. We do, on occasion have an outbreak caused by poor quality imported potato tubers, tomato pepper plants from warmer areas ( a big reason to grow our own imo and also to avoid buying anything from big (American) box stores like wallmart up here and to buy from local growers where possible. Even here it can be a big problem every few years. Mulch will not save plants from wind blown late blight spores I'm afraid.

KarenO

Thanks, Karen. I do agree and Carolyn has stated the same many times.
Thanks again.
Dutch

[Worth1]

All it takes is some infected dust in the air to land on your plants and your doomed.

Worth