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Old April 29, 2018   #241
Worth1
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Your test light lit up because the hot/(better be black's) breaker is on.
This does not mean the neutral is connected all the way back to the panel.

You need to show a pictuer because what you say is flabbergasting me.

What do you mean by white black and neutral?
White is neutral.

This is how a wall outlet is wired.
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Old April 29, 2018   #242
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The pic on the right is how i wired it. But when i opened it up, the outlet that looked original had a black and a white on each side.
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Old April 29, 2018   #243
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I have no idea what is going on.
There is a buss between the screws was it cut?
You really need a real meter to check this stuff.
something that shows volts.
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Old April 29, 2018   #244
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Someone could have also just swapped white for hot someplace in the circuit.
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Old April 29, 2018   #245
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I guess i will try it like i found it? I can swap the wires around tomorrow
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Old April 29, 2018   #246
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A cheap voltmeter would make it much easier to diagnose and comes in handy more often than you’d think.


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Old April 30, 2018   #247
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Originally Posted by Cole_Robbie View Post
I guess i will try it like i found it? I can swap the wires around tomorrow
Cole you really need to be careful just swapping wires around on this stuff and you should find a reliable volt meter.
Even then always check them with a reliable source before you put your life or others life in it's hands.
DO NOT buy that green piece of crap Home Depot sells, I have seen them not work right out of the box.

Yes leave it like you found it but be safe.
The last thing I want is my friends here to get hurt or worse because of this thread.

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Old April 30, 2018   #248
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I'd try to trace the wires from the panel and check the connections at each step along the circuit. Be aware of the dangers of working with electricity. Sometimes you will uncover important things that need attention or were done poorly that you can fix. Other times understanding that was done can be more complicated to unravel (particularly if there are inaccessible junction boxes), but you can at least be aware of the possible consequences. Switches that don't work properly, or wires that are not the correct polarity, are an indication that something needs to be addressed.

Last edited by PhilaGardener; April 30, 2018 at 06:53 AM. Reason: Worth and I were writing at the same time - yes, be safe!
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Old April 30, 2018   #249
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilaGardener View Post
I'd try to trace the wires from the panel and check the connections at each step along the circuit. Be aware of the dangers of working with electricity. Sometimes you will uncover important things that need attention or were done poorly that you can fix. Other times understanding that was done can be more complicated to unravel (particularly if there are inaccessible junction boxes), but you can at least be aware of the possible consequences. Switches that don't work properly, or wires that are not the correct polarity, are an indication that something needs to be addressed.
We went into the MDF room the other day and the lights were off and they wouldn't come on.
The young 20 year old whippersnapper working with us was looking in the breaker to find the breaker that was off.
ME.
What the %^$# are you doing stay out of that breaker panel.
I was looking for the breaker to turn back on.
YOU NEVER flip a breaker back on at a job site.
What if the electrician is working on the circuit and you kill him.

I know there are OSHA job site rules about lock out tag out but you just dont do it.
Later we saw the guy and we told him the lights were out in the MDF room.
He said he was working on the circuit and at that time he had wires in his hands.
It was his responsibility to lock and tag that breaker out but it still doesn't make it right to flip a breaker on if it isn't tagged out.

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Old May 1, 2018   #250
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I switched the wires back to as I found them, and of course it still does not work.

I think I have an old meter. I could buy one if I had to. To be honest, though, I have to idea how to use it, especially in this regard.
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Old May 1, 2018   #251
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When you say on it,do you mean the tails of previous cut wire.A most of our homes are wired in a continuous run of that ac current.A lot of homes enjoyed the top outlet as a standard,then incorporating the three way option for the wife’s favorite Mickey Mouse lamp,on the bottom,so when you hit the switch for lighting ,or fan,the milky mouse lights up,and if you don’t want it, a hammer or use the Hubble pull brass chain ( first invention by Hubble I think) Both worked for me,hated that lamp.Some lazy electricians and hardball electricians,could,would,should and can run a hot wire thru anything going up as the high rise travels skyward also.99 percent of the time they,as by common practice,and code must remove the whole line,out of the box,pulled out completely.That last percent got lucky like me when getting my first” charge” while those hardball union nuts laughed there butts off when me top hat went north,just kiddin.Thats why we follow the posts above,safety always.Or we just use a drywall screw gun,if it runs,hang drywall,if it frys,oops,84lumber it is.I do not miss those days.Yeah kinda
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Old May 1, 2018   #252
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It's hard for me to be able to tell when past modifications have been made. I'm not that good. I do know what you mean about a switch controlling outlets. I have that in my own trailer. But I have three switches - room light, porch light, and outlets. The trailer I am working on only has two switches, and one controls the porch light, which I just replaced. The other seems like it should control the room light, but does not, nor does it control the outlets. I can't imagine that a trailer was built with a switch to nowhere, so someone must have changed something. I don't really care about the switch, since I just put up a ceiling fan, but it would be nice to be able to make these two outlets work.
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Old May 1, 2018   #253
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What is it you dont understand about reading a meter?
This is a question to help you, not a jackass remark.

Worth
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Old May 1, 2018   #254
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I thought everything was just hot or not. Is there maybe weak current from a bad connection, which is why the outlets makes my tester pen glow, yet not actually work? Is that the point of the meter?
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Old May 1, 2018   #255
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To detect,shorts,when the meter reads below tha allowed or engineered ac for that device.zA motor will run real slow with a cord 200 foot long.Close to source runs like a champ.Resistance is a term used a lot.A 220 amp welder requires that,if not it will not work at is optimal use and performance.A meter will tell you what is getting there,and then through the process of eliminatin,you can pinpoint,you resistant,loose wire nut,a good bond will transmit e current mo better than just wrapping a wire around those set screws and not clamping.The worst encounter I have had was a drywall screw too long go through a metal
L stud then embed itself into a Romex non shielded .The 110 lights would dim at switching.Run a device at that location,it dims.The metal studs received enough current to dissapate the current energy value.Or fly Worth and I in,we will sort it out,need good money. Flight limo girlies done in two weeks,hotel included.ok
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