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General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.

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Old August 16, 2016   #16
l_madu
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Originally Posted by PhilaGardener View Post
You might want to look into self-watering planters for next year. They would be great for your balcony. They can be purchased, but there are excellent threads on here that describe how to make them for little cost too.

You are off to a great start!
thanks for the encouragement! will definitely check out those threads and look into self watering planters next year...
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Old August 16, 2016   #17
l_madu
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Agree with Nematode. I am not familiar with liquid tomato tone. If you were to use a complete, powdered and soluble fertilizer, I think you would see immediate results. It is up to you to decide whether or not your ferts need to come from organic sources or not. That is a subject that is like asking which political party you should join, and I will not sidetrack this thread with my opinion, other than to say I like both types of fertilizer for different purposes and that used correctly and at the correct rates, both are good.
You are doing fine. Remember that the damage (yellow leaves, brown edges, curling) that you are seeing is something that has already happened in the past, whether a couple of days or week ago. The newest growth will tell you what is happening now. Is the newest growth green?
I see saucers under your pots. So, there might be things that are not getting flushed out the bottom when you water. Would be good to see water running out of the bottom now and again to make sure you are getting a flush. This could explain the burning edges. Salt build-up from not flushing out during watering would burn leaf edges.
Do not up-pot at this stage in the season. You could do 2 plants per pot if you are removing side/lateral shoots (suckers) to keep the plants from getting bushy/large.
I do not see any really bad signs of disease. Most disease for a container grower using potting mix is gonna be airborne, not from the soil, so do not worry too much from not having pruned off your lower leaves.
As far as watering, I would imagine this time of the year, daily watering in the morning is not over doing it. Water until it runs out the bottom (maybe a gallon per 5 gallon pot). Once it stops dripping out the bottom, pick the pot up a bit or tip one over a bit to the side and feel how heavy it is. Now you know what a fully watered plant feels like.
You can do this as a spot check after you water or in the afternoon to see if they might need a second watering on a hot or windy day. Sounds like you get afternoon shade, so that might not be necessary.
oops i realize that i gave bad information in my original post... the product i was using is NOT liquid tomatone, it's called "great big tomatoes - liquid compost", my bad! it's a concentrate that i've been diluting with water as per instructions on the bottle, but upon closer inspection you guys are totally right that it doesn't contain the nutrients i need at all! i think i've been starving my poor plants. i have granular miracle gro fertilizer which i switched to immediately after reading your posts. thanks for the wake up call!!
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Old August 16, 2016   #18
Nematode
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Gona send another wake up call.
Miracle gro isnt the best for tomatoes.
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Old August 16, 2016   #19
l_madu
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I think 2-3 plants in one 5 gallon pot may be way to much. You might check up in the General Forum under the growing laterals thread to se if you could do such a thing. You could try and separate, but at this late stage it would set your plants way back.
i think you're right... next year, i'm sticking with one per pot. i got waaaay too ambitious trying to grow too many seedlings in the little space i had.

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What kind of soil do you have in your pots? Soil type makes a big difference in what you may or may not need to feed.
i'm using espoma organic potting mix... it's pretty pricey, but once i started using it and it seemed to be doing ok, i felt reluctant to switch it up especially after reading negative experiences some folks have had with miracle gro (mostly just lots of gnats)

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A way to tell if you plants are getting enough water is to get a bamboo skewer, like for chine food or a very skinny wooden dowel and stick it down inside you pot. Let sit for 15-20 minutes and pull out. If you don't see any kind of darker discoloration on the stick from where water was absorbed you need more water. In this heat and humidity alot of us are having to water twice a day. I can water at 7 am and by 1 or 2 in the afternoon I need to water again a small drink or everything wilts and leaves will start to burn.
wow --- twice daily, i would have thought that would be over-watering. good to know that watering multiple times a day is not uncommon this time of year... i'll try the skewer tip as well!

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I know it not very pretty, but you might try hanging a piece of shade cloth up to help shade your plants a bit. There plenty of suggestions from folks here about adding mulch or painting, or other ways to help keep moisture in your pots.
i added a layer of peat moss to my containers to try to help retain moisture...is that advisable?

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Just don't give up on seed growing. Takes years sometimes to learn the correct way, but once you start getting a handle on it, you'll be so happy and proud of yourself. : ) Hang in there. Even if you only get one tomato, it a major success. : )
thank you soooo much for all the advice! this is super helpful!
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Old August 16, 2016   #20
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Gona send another wake up call.
Miracle gro isnt the best for tomatoes.
that's what i've heard, hence the reason why i didn't use in the first place... but i'm just trying to salvage my plants in the short term. what fertilizer do you suggest?
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Old August 16, 2016   #21
Nematode
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There are plenty here that could suggest something appropriate, if they get engaged.
I use a 4 part hydroponic mix, it would work for you but unless you are willing to store 25-40lb bags of powder in a dry place and use a scale to mix your nutrient its not a good choice.

Chem gro tomato formula
Magnesium sulphate
Potassium nitrate
Calcium nitrate.
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Old August 16, 2016   #22
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that's what i've heard, hence the reason why i didn't use in the first place... but i'm just trying to salvage my plants in the short term. what fertilizer do you suggest?
Texas Tomato Food!!! Website is www.theurbanfarm.com

Free shipping, and you can have it by the end of the week.

It is the BOMB!
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Old August 16, 2016   #23
Ed of Somis
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Definitely get your watering schedule dialed in. The way you have crowded plants into one container...it is very likely you are under-watering. Many people will have ideas on your plight...but, start with water. That moisture meter may be accurate (I have never had one that didn't work perfectly)...and under-shooting water will cause your problems. It is an easy correction....but, it will take awhile to correct the stressed plants.
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Old August 16, 2016   #24
Starlight
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I'd ask the pros here, but I wonder if you won't have some major problems when your plants get bigger having so many in a small pot. I wonder if you couldn't cut a couple out down to a single plant and take the cut ones and replant them. Usually doesn't take long for them to develop new roots, since your plants are in a small stage right now. That's what I'd do, but ask a few other folks about doing it.

I prune the bottom leaves of my containers. Water splashes up even with them and things float on the air you don't see to land on your soil. I do the bottom leaves go up a bit and as the plant gets taller then I cut off more and more bottom leaves til I have a foot or better of just stem showing.

I agree with Ed. Those meters are usually pretty accurate. Haven't had one go wrong myself either. You might want to water. Wait and hour or two and then check your soil. That will give the soil plenty of time to absorb moisture and if it still dry when you re-check then add some more water and re-check again after a few hours.

One thing to remember too is that while the tops of your pot may dry out fast, the bottoms can be very wet. You don't want to over water or you'll rot your roots. Not sure if you can check or not, but I check bottom holes too to feel if bottom of pot is wet.

Takes a little practice to get the hang of container watering and it changes as the weather does. Me, I have learned to count seconds for each pot for watering. It works for me and I finally had learned to quit drowning or starving the plants. You'll find your rhythm.

The answer to all your problems are on this site and with the pros. Don't be afraid to ask. Little questions, big questions, they have the answers. Looking forward to when you post your first tomato pic. : )
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Old August 16, 2016   #25
l_madu
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Texas Tomato Food!!! Website is www.theurbanfarm.com

Free shipping, and you can have it by the end of the week.

It is the BOMB!
sweet, i'll check that out! thanks!
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Old August 16, 2016   #26
l_madu
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I'd ask the pros here, but I wonder if you won't have some major problems when your plants get bigger having so many in a small pot. I wonder if you couldn't cut a couple out down to a single plant and take the cut ones and replant them. Usually doesn't take long for them to develop new roots, since your plants are in a small stage right now. That's what I'd do, but ask a few other folks about doing it.
hmmm this is an intriguing idea. if cutting out some of the competition will allow the other plant to take up more nutrients, might be worth a shot. anyone else care to weigh in? and can someone provide a step-by-step on doing this with minimal damage to the plants?

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Looking forward to when you post your first tomato pic. : )
oh! despite my poor feeding/watering techniques, some of my plants already have a few. they are quite adorable! except the one with the BER... that one is... not cute lol. will share some pics when i get home.
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Old August 17, 2016   #27
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Have any of you, tomato vets, made a "compost tea" with blackstrap molasses?

http://thegrownetwork.com/15-simple-...e-fertilizers/
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Old August 17, 2016   #28
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hmmm this is an intriguing idea. if cutting out some of the competition will allow the other plant to take up more nutrients, might be worth a shot. anyone else care to weigh in? and can someone provide a step-by-step on doing this with minimal damage to the plants?
It is a bit late in the season for you to attempt rooting a new plant and expect to be getting fruit from your new start, but if you would like to try it there are a few different ways to go about it.

First, you could just take some laterals or suckers off of the plant to start your new plant(s). You would cut them on the diagonal and place them in sterile potting mix with one node buried or in the ground if you are a in bed gardener. Remove all fruit and blossoms. Keep them out of direct sun for 5-7 days while also keeping them moist but not drenched. After seven days increase the amount of light. If the plants wilt then reduce the light until the plants can accept full sun. Once they can tolerate the light, you have yourself a new tomato plant. The rooting will take about 3 weeks.

Second, you could carefully take a knife and cut down below the soil line to remove the main stem with just some of the roots. You would then plant this deeper than it was growing before. You would have to prune off most of the top growth because there will not be enough roots to support the top of the plant. Once again, remove all of the fruit and the blossoms.

At this point in the season I do not think that you will have time to root a plant for 2-3 weeks. Then allow it to blossom and hopefully have time for the fruit to ripen. I think that your best bet for these container grown plants is to just go ahead and cut off a few plants so that you have no more than two plants to a container. It would even be better if you did this and left only one plant to remain in your container.

It is no wonder that you are having troubles with these plants. They are just overcrowded and can not find enough room or nutrients with so much competition. Remove a few and give the rest some room to flourish.
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Old August 18, 2016   #29
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Seems like everyone has chipped in. Only thing I can add is that I grew Tiny Tim last year. It would set a bunch of fruit and then look like all the leaves were drying. Then it would branch out new leaves from the main stem and fruit again and repeat. So those leaves with the dry edges might just be is natural course. If it's doing it with the other varieties then probably not though.


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Old August 18, 2016   #30
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Mine apparently had a nutritional deficiency. I fed them 10-10-10, Miracle Gro Bloom, Miracle Gro Shake and Feed Tomato since I started the thread in the Diseases subforum. The weather cooled off some. We had torrential rain and t-storms, strong winds, and even hail. But the plants are bouncing back. See thread for before / after pics.
http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=42497

WalMart had all their fertilizers on sale 1/2 price and then 1/2 off of 1/2 at some stores last week. But some other Walmarts didn't reduce their stuff at all. The 10-10-10 is granules, and might still be in stock. It's cheap even if it's still regular price. Walmart has 10# bags for only $1 at some stores now! I tried to stay "organic" but, y'know, I've got so many big containers of heavy feeders that I added "any fertilizers that were 1/2 price" to my approved list after realizing how much growing season remains and how bad my plants were starving. lol

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