Lawn Mower ~

[Tomstrees]

I think my gardens ready for its "winter-slumber" ...
but a quick question ...

My neighbors trees (an Oak & a Maple) litter my yard with leaves every fall ... instead of bagging them up and having the town haul them away ...

A quick question:

Could I rake these leaves into piles ; mow them ; and use as a mulch on the top of the garden to "protect" my soil during winter ?

Would the decomposing leaves change the PH of my soil ?

Would I rake them off come spring ?

Any help would be great ~

~ Tom

[akgardengirl]

Yes, that would be an ideal use of the mulched leaves. The garden guru here recommends that for winter protection and for composting. Certain leaves are better than others but I don't know all of those details.
Sue B.

[dcarch]

I wish that there would be a "Compost Forum" for this kind of questions/topics so that the next time you are in need, it would a lot easier.

dcarch

[Tomstrees]

So it wouldn't matter if
the leaves were from an Oak tree ?

I thought they were make soil
higher in PH ?

~ Tom

Dcarch ,,,
Its TVille , not GW-Ville !
~ lol ~
I don't mind digging around !
My question's good for a
"General Question" thread ~ I'm cou ~ 8)

[PaulF]

Oak leaves are the best leaves for soil ammendment. I would till them in and let them break down over the winter and next year. Maple is also good; stay away from Walnut leaves as they have a natural oil that is a herbicide and will stunt growth in plants where the leaves and the resulting compost is present.

[landarc]

I am with everyone else on this. Grind away. I would caution, that if you have any undesirable grass (crab, chick et al, or weeds) to wash the mower deck before doing this to avoid spreading weeds. I am sure that the lawn in perfect and shiny, but, just a mention.

[dcarch]

Tom,

You can check out HD if they have a Mulching Blade replacement for your lawn mower, if you don't have one already.

dcarch

[bluelytes]

I have a yard blower/vac, and it has an attachment on it so what I vac up, (leaves, small twigs, etc., get chopped up into mulch.

[Gimme3]

Tom...there is some truth...w/regard to oak leaves being acidic. But there are many more Truths...that once you add em all up...should make ya Smile...)))

first off...Appreciate this, about an oak tree. There are basicly 3 types of rooting systems...that all trees exhibit one of. an oak tree exhibits the very deepest , it resides or is categorized into being whats termed a "spear -point" rooting tree. It roots mighty deep into the Earth...as deep as just about any other other tree on this Planet. It brings up, thru it's Life systems...trace elements and nutrients, that only...IT..and other "Spear-rooted " trees like it...can do. I wish Martin was here, because he can tell you Sooooo Much, about the Beauty...of usin leaves...in your soil. Nevertheless...i'm tryin...Oaks...bring up...from great depths in the Earth...nutrients, that are distributed, and present..in their leaves. Oaks...fertilize...their ownself.....Ponder that...)))


Second off...but more related to the original Question...the Native Americans used, an taught, or aided,,,our Settlers about tannic acid. Oak trees are the Source...of tannic acid. The Native Americans would use an acorn derivative, or a natural hollow that held rainwater, from an oak tree...to employ in tanning deerskins. It was not too far of a fetch, for settlers, because they already knew the same...it was simply a matter of adapting to this Continent's species.It's true...that the by-product from an oak tree...is acidic.

Thirdly...ponder..a mature Forest. Within it..decomposition continuously is occuring. Nature...neautralizes....All...thru Time. Whether acidic...or alkalinic events occur...decomposition...feeds, and neautralizes it ALL. Organic soil...is neutral.

Ponder the extreme potassium input of a forest fire...the alkaline effects...temporarily.

Nature, decomposes organic materials, an places them right back...in Perfect order, for Soils.

Oak an Maple leaves, offer Wonderful trace element benefits, as well as available nitrogen, phoshporous,potassium ...these amounts are not great ..compared to a synthetic fertilizer, but that is not all....

Humus...and humic acid, play a wonderful role in Soil Fertility...and as the leaves decompose, thru their multiple stages...its like somebody pattin you on the back....every other day...))) Humus is created, for it's short Life...eventually....an thats why an organic grower never stops tryin...to Give back...to the Soil. Its a life-long....Obligation/Treaty....)))

To try an summarize, yet not be assumptive....because too much of ANYTHING...aint natural...

Many leaves are initially acidic upon fallen...Nature...decomposes them...an thats how Nature...feeds...Beautiful Forests. Leaves will mat and become an anerobic mess (no air) if layered wholely .,, an truly be a detriment...in a Garden, but when shred, this worry dont exist. And if you are truly seekin their best input, utilize cold times of the year to till shredded leaves into the Soil, because at this time...your Friends...the Earthworms.....wont be up near the surface, an they'll jump on an rapidly gorge upon and fertilize your Garden, when they feel the Spring Warmth.

Wood ashes are a rapidly leaching soil amendment, and dolomitic limestone, is close.
That quality is nice to remember, because it's also...a Quick fix, for soil acidity. But in a mature organicly-amended soil....ph is never a problem, because Nature naturally neutralizes and optimizes Soil, and Leaves are always welcome...)))

I personally prefer to simply always give back to Soil...anything i can of it's organic nature, and over Time...ponder the needs, in individual cultivars, for more special help.

Theres so much more....to understand...re: Organic contents of Soil.....im glad...this question was posed....Tom...)))

An jus to try an say it plainer....if you put them leaves into your soil..now....you wont even see a shred....come next spring...but you Will...wonder...how the soil got so Tilthy....Friable....an thats jus the Beginnin...)))

An we still aint even touched upon....the Carbon Cycle...)))

[Tomstrees]

Great info Gimme3 and then some ~

I've literally been dumping my entire
compost bin into my garden every fall
for about 4 seasons ; plus mulching with seaweed
during the season ...

The soil is getting better and better as it used to be
more clay like ...

Whats unique about my garden is that just 15+ inches below the soil in the middle of my garden, is a 100+ year old stump that measures about 4ft wide ...
I've been axe picking at it, shoveling it, adding composted matter to it, and just this year its finally starting to break down ...
I've been utilizing that spot as a walk way into the garden and sort of planting around it ...

I pulled out a large number of big roots this fall ... Opening up all kinds of room under the bed for tomato/pepper roots ~

This year though, I've really been wondering about mulching the top to ease the harshness of winter on my soil - and to possibly get the "heat-up" in the off season to attract more worms, micro-activity etc. ~

Do I have to wait alittle longer come spring for the soil to warm up ?
Do you take the cover off and then place back on once it does warm up ?

Sorry for so many quesions ...
I'm really trying to "fine-tune" what I've got ...

~ Tom

[jenn_sc]

I have a compost bin that I've been adding to for about 3 years now. We don't have all that many good leaves in the fall to add to it.

What should I do? I've considered asking around and offering to rake someone's yard in exchange for some bags of good maple or oak leaves. (I could use the exercise too) I'm afraid they'll think I'm a TOTAL NUT though

I've considered picking up bagged leaves beside the road in the dark of night to avoid embarrassment, but I'd be REALLY embarrassed to get caught swiping "trash"!!!

[landarc]

Tom,
Everything that Gimme says!

As for waiting for warm up, I would think that the mulch would not make a difference in heating up in the spring. As long as you keep the mulch airified in the spring (fluff that mulch!) you should be able to get the soil heated up in the same time as an un-mulched yard. The ambient air temperature and solar gain is going to be what creates warmth in the soil. I have been taught that well airified mulch will actually hold the warmed air of the day slightly more effectively than no mulch.

Some people swear by the placement of 'hot' mulch in the spring that will add some warmth due to ongoing decay in the compost. Sort of like a 'hot hole' planting method. I am not sure this works in terms of mulch.

I suppose if I was particularly interested in getting more heat early, in early spring I would till the soil and make sure there is plenty of air and porosity. I would then erect hoop house or some other way of trapping warm air over the planting beds. After transplant, continuing to keep the grow tunnels etc...over the plants would allow you more growing time.

[Tomstrees]

ok - so I should "fluff"
whatever mulch is still on the soils
surface come spring ... right ?

~ Tom

[landarc]

Actually, I would fluff the soil surface also, as long as the heavy rains have stopped. The air is what is going to help you get more warmth into the top layers of soil. The longer the soil stays wet, the harder it is going to be to get the temperature up. Typically, there is a lag between the air temperature and soil temperature that can be minimized if the soil is dry. Water tends to be more stable than air in terms of holding onto a certain temperature. Encourging dryer soil and better tilth will give you the best chance of your soil temps increasing faster.

[Tomstrees]

Looking out onto the lawn after
all this rain last night and today and more to
come, I'm going to have SOOOO many leaves ~

Sounds like a plan John ~
I'm just going to cover the garden with 2 - 4
inches of shredded leaves and turn them over in the spring ...

Hopefully come spring,
it will "warm up" as usual ~

Toim