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Forum area for discussing hybridizing tomatoes in technical terms and information pertinent to trait/variety specific long-term (1+ years) growout projects.

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Old 4 Days Ago   #31
Koala Doug
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I appreciate everyone's comments in this thread. It is nice to get a 'Noob Breeding 101' course here at Tomatoville!


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Old 4 Days Ago   #32
Fred Hempel
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Another person also mentioned Garnet, and they seem to look similar. We will definitely be growing Garnet this year!

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Originally Posted by jmsieglaff View Post
Hi Fred,

The Madera tomato is sure a nice looking tomato.

I reminded me of a tomato I grew in 2017, Garnet cherry. Have you ever grown Garnet? If so, how do the two compare?

We really liked Garnet in 2017--foliage health, extremely vigorous, very high production and excellent flavor and are growing it again in 2018.

Justin
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Old 4 Days Ago   #33
Fusion_power
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Quote:
It also delays for another generation the process of developing a true-breeding line.
Strictly speaking, this is not entirely true. If the parent used for the backcross contains most of the desired genes and only one or two genes are being introgressed, a backcross can significantly speed up (or reduce the number of plants that have to be grown) the process of stabilizing a true breeding line. In other words, you are correct, but there are times when different logic is needed.
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Old 4 Days Ago   #34
tpeltan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crmauch View Post
The list someone already posted is good, but can be overwhelming as there are a tremendous number of 'genes' found, but most of them are minor or useless except for scientific study. Also note that a number of genes and there 'allelles' recessive forms used to be noted by capitalization for the dominate genes and lower case for the recessive and early genes were named for the their dominate type (like R for Red-flesh). I've notice that in some cases the way things are noted have changed. Now genes are usually named for the recessive form and the dominate form of the gene is noted with a plus symbol (+). So the gene that controls determinate growth versus indeterminate is labeled as sp (for self-pruning) and the dominate form of the gene (which is the indeterminate form) is sp+.

Two good books to start with:

"Breed Your Own Vegetable Varieties: The Gardener's and Farmer's Guide to Plant Breeding and Seed Saving", 2nd edition by Carol Deppe (although I liked the 1st edition better)

"Plant Breeding for the Home Gardener: How to Create Unique Vegetables and Flowers" by Joseph Tychonievich

Neither is solely about tomatoes.

Chris
I am not sure, but I think Carol Deppe has some notes about tomato breeding (and de-hybridizing F1 varieties) in her book The Tao of Vegetable Gardening (but I don´t have the book to check it).

Another easy-to-understand book about plant breeding (in general, no tomatoes) is HAYES, Herbert Kendall a Forrest Rhinehart IMMER. Methods of plant breeding. New York: McGraw-Hill, 1942. McGraw-Hill publications in the agricultural science.

I know, it is veeeeeery old, but it includes basic principles you need for basic breeding (combinatory breeding) explained in clear way.
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Old 3 Days Ago   #35
Fred Hempel
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I agree. Introgressing 1 or 2 genes into a line clearly is one example.

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Originally Posted by Fusion_power View Post
Strictly speaking, this is not entirely true. If the parent used for the backcross contains most of the desired genes and only one or two genes are being introgressed, a backcross can significantly speed up (or reduce the number of plants that have to be grown) the process of stabilizing a true breeding line. In other words, you are correct, but there are times when different logic is needed.
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Old 3 Days Ago   #36
Rajun Gardener
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This thread is right on time!!

Last year I crossed a Compari X George Detsikas. I have a plant growing now in a friends greenhouse and just picked a lower fruit off the plant because it looks terrible and is the smallest, the others aren't blushing yet and I'll get better fruit later to keep seeds.

It has the ribbing from GD and is growing tall like the Compari. This isn't ripe yet but you can see the shape. The other ripe tomato is a cross from Compari X Rebell Yell F-1 fruit.

My question is, will I be able to get plants that are bigger than Compari with the ribbing and cherry type growth?
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Old 16 Hours Ago   #37
crmauch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajun Gardener View Post
This thread is right on time!!

Last year I crossed a Compari X George Detsikas. I have a plant growing now in a friends greenhouse and just picked a lower fruit off the plant because it looks terrible and is the smallest, the others aren't blushing yet and I'll get better fruit later to keep seeds.

It has the ribbing from GD and is growing tall like the Compari. This isn't ripe yet but you can see the shape. The other ripe tomato is a cross from Compari X Rebell Yell F-1 fruit.

My question is, will I be able to get plants that are bigger than Compari with the ribbing and cherry type growth?
.
<My question is, will I be able to get plants that are bigger than Compari with the ribbing and cherry type growth?>

Do you mean 'fruits that are bigger that Compari' and what are you specifying re: 'cherry type growth'.

1) Generally (there are definite exceptions) you won't be able to get fruit larger than the largest parent.

2) Ribbing should be fairly easy to retain. Ironically, in the history of tomato breeding ribbing was something bred away frum.

3) Getting size back in a cross (I believe) is one of the harder things to do, as there are many genes that have minor affects on size. You might want to consider a backcross to get size (this is just an opinion).
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Old 14 Hours Ago   #38
Rajun Gardener
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Yes, I meant tomatoes bigger than Compari and still maintain the growth habit of a cherry plant. I guess it really doesn't matter as long as it clusters with 7-10 tomatoes and the clusters are close to each other on the plant.

How would I go about selecting for this without having to grow many plants out?
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