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General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.

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Old May 12, 2015   #1
hollowpoint
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Default Earthtainer (SWC) and liquid fertilizers

I'm growing tomatoes in a Earthtainer this year for the first time and I had a question for those that run liquid fertilizers...

After adding in liquid fertilizers, do you guys ever flush all the water out of a SWC/Earthtainer as directed by many of the liquid fertilizer manufactures?

I just bought some Texas Tomato Food and the directions for use in containers says to "flush with pure water for 2-3 waterings". There's not really a easy way to empty out the whole water chamber on a Earthtainer, so I'm curious as to what others are doing when they apply liquid ferts.
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Old May 12, 2015   #2
rnewste
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I use TTF and do not flush out the water reservoir during the Season. I have found that the constant uptake by the plants "churns" the water sufficiently, and only at the end of the year do I flush out the EarthTainer. Others may have different recommendations, but TTF is not heavy in residual Salts, etc.

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Old May 12, 2015   #3
hollowpoint
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Thanks for the info Raybo!

On a separate note, approximately how much water do you think is in the Earthtainer reservoir (with a Earthbox AWS diaphragm if it makes a difference)? For the past few liquid fertilizer applications, I guesstimate the water to be about 7 gallons and measure accordingly, but I'm wondering how far off I am.
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Old May 12, 2015   #4
rnewste
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I think 6 to 7 gallons using an AWS is a pretty good estimate.

I do like the fact that the large reservoir tends to level out any "surges" in concentration of the liquid fertilizer additions.

Something you might want to consider for next year is to put an EZ-Flo in your AWS feed system:



You can use this to accurately set the fertilizer flow rate into your system:



Raybo

Last edited by rnewste; May 12, 2015 at 06:37 PM.
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Old May 12, 2015   #5
JamesL
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What Raybo said.
I don't flush my containers either. Mid August I do top water them occasionally. that might have a mild flushing effect.
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Old May 16, 2015   #6
Winemaker
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Ray, Are you using the liquid fertilizer in addition to the dry that is put in at the start of the season or have you switched to using only liquid fertilizer?
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Old May 16, 2015   #7
rnewste
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I am using a combination of both fertilizers. I also use the EZ-Flo to inject Calcium and a root stimulant (Bio-Cozyme):



Less than 6 weeks after plant out and they are loving it:



Raybo
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Old May 16, 2015   #8
Salsacharley
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What kind of Calcium do you inject Raybo?




Quote:
Originally Posted by rnewste View Post
I am using a combination of both fertilizers. I also use the EZ-Flo to inject Calcium and a root stimulant (Bio-Cozyme):



Less than 6 weeks after plant out and they are loving it:



Raybo
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Old May 16, 2015   #9
Winemaker
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Your picture prompts another question. It looks like you are pruning off the lower leaves in the on the plants. Can you give me some tips on that? Mine are really dense in that area with leaves. Some of the older leaves are starting to turn color.
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Old May 16, 2015   #10
rnewste
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The calcium is in powdered form which I dilute in the EZ-Flo.

I always prune the bottom 16 inches, as this promotes better airflow, etc.

Raybo
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Old May 16, 2015   #11
schill93
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Raybo, What size are those containers your using (gallons)? And I think you have two tomato plants in each one. Is that correct. Also, never saw containers that color (they look light green). Did you spray paint them or did you buy them that color. If you purchased them that light color, may I ask where you found them?
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Old May 17, 2015   #12
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The containers are the 31 gal Centrex Plastics, Rugged Tote containers with snap lid. You can get them at Lowes. They have lifetime guarantee. Color is Beige. They come in a couple colors but you want the light colored ones. The sticky on Earthtainers has a link to the construction details with all of the parts.

Item #: 314141 | Model #: 314141
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Old May 18, 2015   #13
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I used a Master blend 4-18-38 with 19-0-0 Calcium Nitrate with Magnesium Sulphate per 5 gallon of water 12 grams of the master blend 12 grams of Calcium Nitrate and 6 grams of magnesium sulphate and you can keep adding more when the water gets low, 2 weeks in the pot.
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Old May 19, 2015   #14
schill93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikie1856 View Post
I used a Master blend 4-18-38 with 19-0-0 Calcium Nitrate with Magnesium Sulphate per 5 gallon of water 12 grams of the master blend 12 grams of Calcium Nitrate and 6 grams of magnesium sulphate and you can keep adding more when the water gets low, 2 weeks in the pot.

Mike1856

I have that fertilizer as well. It is for hydroponics. It does have most of the essential micros in it, and I know you can boost the nitrogen with some calcium nitrate, but what about the potassium (K) It is quite high at 38. I don't know if that would have any negative effect on plants in containers (as opposed to water)

Also, are you not concerned with bringing up the nitrogen to 19 for fruiting tomatoes?You will undoubtedly get good growth, but possibly at sacrificing fruit production.

I don't know. I have limited experience. I was just asking as I have some and considered trying it on some tomatoes myself, but was hesitant for the above reasons.

Winemaker. Thanks for the response. I happened to be in Costco yesterday and saw they had some really tough well made containers in about that same size. I was tempted, but they were black, and here in Vegas, the last thing I want is black in the summer.

Last edited by schill93; May 19, 2015 at 08:57 PM.
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Old May 19, 2015   #15
mikie1856
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schill93 View Post
Mike1856

I have that fertilizer as well. It is for hydroponics. It does have most of the essential micros in it, and I know you can boost the nitrogen with some calcium nitrate, but what about the potassium (K) It is quite high at 38. I don't know if that would have any negative effect on plants in containers (as opposed to water)

Also, are you not concerned with bringing up the nitrogen to 19 for fruiting tomatoes?You will undoubtedly get good growth, but possibly at sacrificing fruit production.

I don't know. I have limited experience. I was just asking as I have some and considered trying it on some tomatoes myself, but was hesitant for the above reasons.

Winemaker. Thanks for the response. I happened to be in Costco yesterday and saw they had some really tough well made containers in about that same size. I was tempted, but they were black, and here in Vegas, the last thing I want is black in the summer.
well I was hoping someone would bring that up, this is why I am experimenting with this, see i was spoiled by a farmer out in Ohio, he showed my how to get 250 lbs of tomatoes per plant, when he came out here for a visit he looked at the soil, he told me i would never get it out here, no matter what i do, then I quit gardening for a long time, it was the past 2 years i started up again, and quite by accident I found out the better way for me was to garden was in pot's, now i found out the other day I am using horse manure witch is low in (K) and low in (P) and High in (N) but most of it is hay and straw, I needed to give the plant's a quick boost because of where I live, on top of a mountain and we are 10 deg's colder than down in town, I did add to the soil bone meal to boost the (P) by 0-18-0 now that my roots have a good foot hold I am taking out the calcium nitrate and i will be running the 4-18-38 only once a week, see the fertilizer master blend from what i see it is not a solid for hydroponics, you have to make it that way by adding the magnesium sulphate that makes it a good hydroponics because master blend is missing the root conditioner to prevent root rot as for the (K) being 38 now back to the manure you can read this link where i found out what is in manure http://www.homegrownfun.com/how-to-u...ken-horse-cow/ i am not to worried about the (k) yet and i will be posting my results.
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