Biofertilizers and Mycorrhizae - Page 5

tessa · May 26, 2009

thanks ami. just needed the reassurance. it is almost NEVER that i can find the stuff you folks are discussing and have access to...so when i find it...i don't actually believe it. LOL.
off to place my order now!

tessa · September 1, 2009

tomorrow i'm planting out my very first maters. seedlings from bunnings (home depot equivalent). big beef...which i *have* to buy, vs. raise from my own seeds...and i'm going to do my first innoculations.
so excited.
probably won't sleep at all tonight.
*snicker*

amideutch · September 1, 2009

Good stuff tessa. Keep us posted how it goes. Ami

tessa · September 2, 2009

well i had some fun in the garden today.
i planted out two dwarf fruit trees between the standard fruit trees, sprinkled on some myco and watered it in.

would it be a good idea to sprinkle and water some myco into the mature trees as well do you think?

then i planted out the first of the season 2009/10 tomatoes...

black krim

and big beef

i added about a teaspoon of myco to the hole.
hope that's the right thing to do.

now it's sit back time...and we'll see what happens!

dice · September 2, 2009

A teaspoon of mycorrhizal spores? I think that would be enough
for about 100 plants. I usually go for "smidgen" sprinkled over
the root ball before transplanting (half a pea or so by volume).

I actually add it at the first potting up, and I expect it to
already be growing in/on the roots by the time I transplant
into the garden or a container. (Since I grow winter cover
crops whose roots are mycorhizzal-friendly, it should still
be there in the in-ground beds next spring, but container
plants could still benefit from a fresh application.)

amideutch · September 2, 2009

Tessa, looking good. Dice is correct about the amount you need for your seedlings. For my tomato seedlings I use less than 1/8 of a teaspoon. Just sprinkle on the root ball making sure it comes in contact with the roots and sprinkle the rest in the hole. Heres a link on applying micorrhizae to fruit trees on plant out and established ones as well. Click on the link below and then click on "How to apply BioVam". BioVam is a mycorrhizae product sold by T&J Enterprises and this is their site. Ami

http://www.tandjenterprises.com/brochurelinks.htm

dice · September 2, 2009

The "mycorrhizae in containers" gives me an idea. If you have
trees that you have not treated by the end of the
tomato/vegetable season, you can dump out the container mix
from containers that had a mycorrhizae treatment around under
the trees, and the mycorrhizae should spread from the container
mix into the soil around the tree roots, thus recycling the
mycorrhizae that you used for the vegetables to treat the trees
in your yard. (Some trees are not colonized by mycorrhizae,
but that would be no different whether you watered in the
spores directly or let it spread into the soil from colonized
container mix.)

tessa · September 2, 2009

actually, it was more like a half teaspoon...but i see even that is too much.
good! means i've got enough to do the entire crop this year then.

jolj · September 7, 2009

Duane,
You are the tomato man, have you used worm casting or any home grow micro-organisms. Do you have a link.
thanks Jolj

~Duane~ · September 22, 2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthCoast

I was looking for mycorrhizal applications labels to see how much mycorrhizae they had per cc. I couldn't find a lable. Most if not all of the other myco products have the numbers in CFU's or CC's. During the search I noticed that they were ordered to stop selling in the state of oregon because they misslabeled one of thier products.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthCoast

http://www.oregon.gov/ODA/PEST/docs/pdf/2004rpt_1.pdf

When I searched for giant pumpkins I found that the picture of that guy, Joe Jutras uses a product called Pumpkin Pro. Joe and another world record holder put out a video on how they use mycorrhizae in thier giant pumpkin growing. Check it out its very informative about how giant vegetable growers use mycorrhizae.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HcagSv-V1zg

oh and here is the website of the company that makes the stuff. It looks like they have many giant pumpkin records under their belt! BTW that video is pretty commical.

http://www.reforest.com/extreme_gardening.php

They have always advertised how many colony forming units are in each of their products on this page: http://www.mycorrhizae.com/index.php?cid=555

I've been using their Microfine endo which has 100,000 CFU or propagules per pound.

If you look closely at the reason why their product was stopped in the state of Oregon you will see that it was due to changes in labeling requirements in the state of which hundreds of other reputable producers of these products were also included.

I own the videos, I talk with Joe Jutras, Ron Wallace and Don young who are the top contenders in the Giant Pumpkin growing community. Joe and Don are both growing seed this year from my state record tomato.
There are a few MONSTER pumpkins out there right now that are taping near or over the current world record.

The results have spoken for themselves for me this year being the second year I have used these products.
Last season was my best year with breaking the state record tomato and growing a pumpkin personal best of 823 pounds. I was also #4 in the GPC worldwide competition for giant tomatoes.

This season was even better.

I topped the state record weighing in at 4.83 pounds. .35 pounds heavier than the current Ohio State Record. Off of the 5.58 Timm. Brant Timm's 5.58 Timm 08 was grown off of the 3.9 Catapano 07 which was originally grown from a Lyon's seed which was a Big Zac.

I also grew a tomato which weighed in at 4.14 pounds off of a variety called "BelMonte" which had a perfect classic tomato shape"pics attached". The BelMonte seeds were given to me by Tomatoville member "TomatoAddict" who is the same person who gave me the "church" seeds with which I grew last years state record.

This season, I grew 6 tomatoes over three pounds and 8 over 2.5 pounds. I have two pumpkins in the patch, one weighing just over 900 pounds and one just under 850 pounds and growing.

jolj

I did use what small amount of worm castings I had from my worm bins, not nearly as much as I would like. Each fall I put about a 4 inch layer of compost/manure on the garden and till it in.

What I am using is a blend of :

Organica Plant Growth Activator "found this at TSC of all places" Bacillus subtilis 10,000,000 CFU per gram. Bacillus licheniformis 10,000,000 CFU per gram, Bacillus megaterium 10,000,000 CFU per gram, Paenibacillus polymyxa 10,000,000 CFU per gram, Streptomyces lydicus 2,000,000 CFU per gram, 30% natural sugars, 10% hydrolyzed soy meal 4% humic acid (derived from leonardite), and 3% seaweed extract (derived from Ecklonia maxima

Micronized endomycorrhizal fungi, 4 species of endo, 100,000 propagules per lb.

Microflora restore which contians: Arthrobacter agilis, Arthrobacter citreus, Arthrobacter globiformis, Arthrobacter leuteus, Arthrobacter simplex, Azotobacter chroococcum, Azotobacter paspali, Azospirillum brasiliencise, Azospirillum lipoferum, Bacillus brevis, Bacillus macerans, Bacillus pumilus, Bacillus polymyxa, Bacillus subtilis, Bacteroides lipolyticum, Bacteroides succinogenes, Brevibacterium lipolyticum, Brevibacterium stationis, Kurtha zopfil, Myrothecium verrucaria, Pseudomonas calcis, Pseudomonas dentrificans, Pseudomonas flourescens, Pseudomonas glathei, Phanerochaete chrysosporium, Streptomyces fradiae, Streptomyces cellulosae, ... and... Streptomyces griseoflavus

Azospirillum brasilense purchased at www.extremepumpkinstore.com the ONLY place I could find it.

I do keep a complete diary of my gardens on my website. I hope a link is permitted here if not the moderators here are more than welcome to remove it. www.perrysgreenhouse.com
I do allow my members to link to tomatoville.

~Duane~ · September 22, 2009

Regarding how much to use discussed above.

I do not use it sparingly and neither do the Record pumpkin holders.
I use the mixture above at every transplant. I mix it in the soil before seeds are planted, at transplant into cell packs, at transplant into larger containers and then again at transplant into the garden. I completely dust the root ball at each transplant and then add some to the hole prior to placing the plant. More than a teaspoon when transplanting into the garden.

For Giant pumpkins I also use liberal ammounts of these products at transplant and then throughout the time I allow vines to grow. During vine growth I place a large pinch of it at all nodes which are buried throughout the season.

I get AMAZING root growth. During peak growth you can see the roots everywhere under the canopy of the pumpkin plant.
I do not walk in my garden without something down to distribute my weight so that a minimal amount of roots are harmed. last year I pulled one root up from a pumpkin which I followed sixteen feet before I broke it off at about the diameter of a pencil. I also pulled up a root from last years record tomato which I followed for twelve feet.

tessa · September 23, 2009

wow duane...thanks for all that.
dare i ask?...
did you eat that tomato?...and what did it taste like?

September 1, 2009	#63
amideutch Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E Posts: 5,041	Good stuff tessa. Keep us posted how it goes. Ami __________________ Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘...Holy Crap .....What a ride!'

September 2, 2009	#65
dice Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: PNW Posts: 4,743	A teaspoon of mycorrhizal spores? I think that would be enough for about 100 plants. I usually go for "smidgen" sprinkled over the root ball before transplanting (half a pea or so by volume). I actually add it at the first potting up, and I expect it to already be growing in/on the roots by the time I transplant into the garden or a container. (Since I grow winter cover crops whose roots are mycorhizzal-friendly, it should still be there in the in-ground beds next spring, but container plants could still benefit from a fresh application.) __________________ -- alias

September 2, 2009	#66
amideutch Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E Posts: 5,041	Tessa, looking good. Dice is correct about the amount you need for your seedlings. For my tomato seedlings I use less than 1/8 of a teaspoon. Just sprinkle on the root ball making sure it comes in contact with the roots and sprinkle the rest in the hole. Heres a link on applying micorrhizae to fruit trees on plant out and established ones as well. Click on the link below and then click on "How to apply BioVam". BioVam is a mycorrhizae product sold by T&J Enterprises and this is their site. Ami http://www.tandjenterprises.com/brochurelinks.htm __________________ Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘...Holy Crap .....What a ride!'

September 2, 2009	#67
dice Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: PNW Posts: 4,743	The "mycorrhizae in containers" gives me an idea. If you have trees that you have not treated by the end of the tomato/vegetable season, you can dump out the container mix from containers that had a mycorrhizae treatment around under the trees, and the mycorrhizae should spread from the container mix into the soil around the tree roots, thus recycling the mycorrhizae that you used for the vegetables to treat the trees in your yard. (Some trees are not colonized by mycorrhizae, but that would be no different whether you watered in the spores directly or let it spread into the soil from colonized container mix.) __________________ -- alias

September 22, 2009	#71
~Duane~ Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Ohio Posts: 6	Regarding how much to use discussed above. I do not use it sparingly and neither do the Record pumpkin holders. I use the mixture above at every transplant. I mix it in the soil before seeds are planted, at transplant into cell packs, at transplant into larger containers and then again at transplant into the garden. I completely dust the root ball at each transplant and then add some to the hole prior to placing the plant. More than a teaspoon when transplanting into the garden. For Giant pumpkins I also use liberal ammounts of these products at transplant and then throughout the time I allow vines to grow. During vine growth I place a large pinch of it at all nodes which are buried throughout the season. I get AMAZING root growth. During peak growth you can see the roots everywhere under the canopy of the pumpkin plant. I do not walk in my garden without something down to distribute my weight so that a minimal amount of roots are harmed. last year I pulled one root up from a pumpkin which I followed sixteen feet before I broke it off at about the diameter of a pencil. I also pulled up a root from last years record tomato which I followed for twelve feet. __________________ *2008 Ohio State Record holder for heaviest tomato grown in the Buckeye State. 4.48 pounds!* *2009 Personal Best Giant Tomato: 4.83 pounds!* *2009 Personal Best Giant Pumpkin 1013 Pounds!*

May 26, 2009	#61
tessa Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: perth, western australia Posts: 1,031	thanks ami. just needed the reassurance. it is almost NEVER that i can find the stuff you folks are discussing and have access to...so when i find it...i don't actually believe it. LOL. off to place my order now!

September 7, 2009	#69
jolj Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: S.C.-U.S.A. Posts: 6	Duane, You are the tomato man, have you used worm casting or any home grow micro-organisms. Do you have a link. thanks Jolj

September 23, 2009	#72
tessa Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: perth, western australia Posts: 1,031	wow duane...thanks for all that. dare i ask?... did you eat that tomato?...and what did it taste like?