Talk to me about Drip Irrigation - Page 2

AKmark · May 1, 2014

For a tank use a shallow well pump that has a pressure switch right on the pump, it is nice though to have a pressure tank hooked into it also, I use a 20 gallon PT. I also use on demand pumps that are inline, after the tank valve, and work great. Aqua tech makes a good small pump that you can abuse for hours on end. I have 275 gallon tanks plumbed together, and have both of these system going in different greenhouse with no problems,

jflournoy · May 2, 2014

Well pumps and pressure tanks are way more complicated and set-up intensive than I am interested in doing. My sump pump definitely shoots the water out at a much faster/harder rate than it comes out of the rain barrel by gravity. Doesn't that mean it would create more pressure?

Maybe I should just go with regular soaker hose and put it against the ground, under the plastic, before I lay the plastic and plant my plants. Or a hard poly drip line with pre-set emitters and do the same thing, lay it under the plastic, that way I wouldn't have to worry about some of the water being wasted because the emitters weren't spaced exactly with my plant spacing?

taboule · May 2, 2014

Hi, you've already received lots of good advice, I'll add one last item.

You can find 2ft (or 3ft, which is what i use for toms) spaced tubing with emitters at dripworks. If you layout your properly dimensioned tubing (meaning same distance between emitters that you'd use for the plants) first, on top of the plastic, then cut through the plastic exactly where the emitters are, and plant there, then no water will go anywhere except in that hole.

heirloomtomaguy · May 2, 2014

The problem you may face putting water into a restricted flow system is the possibilty of burning up the sump pump. Sump pumps are not designed to create pressure they are only used to move volume of water. The only good way to use a sump pump is to water directly into the plant openings of the plastic with a hose that has no nozzle on the end.

jflournoy · May 2, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by taboule

Hi, you've already received lots of good advice, I'll add one last item.

You can find 2ft (or 3ft, which is what i use for toms) spaced tubing with emitters at dripworks. If you layout your properly dimensioned tubing (meaning same distance between emitters that you'd use for the plants) first, on top of the plastic, then cut through the plastic exactly where the emitters are, and plant there, then no water will go anywhere except in that hole.

I called Dripworks yesterday and asked about tubing with emitters pre-set at 2' intervals and the guy I talked to said they didn't have any at 2'. Maybe I didn't ask the right questions....

taboule · May 2, 2014

Maybe the guy didn't know his business.

Here you go, product code is DET241 (for 100' roll, they also have 500' rolls)

jflournoy · May 2, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by taboule

Maybe the guy didn't know his business.

Here you go, product code is DET241 (for 100' roll, they also have 500' rolls)

Thanks, that very well might be what I'm looking for. If I read correctly, I don't have to add any emitters, they're "built-in"? And it looks like they compensate for different pressures, also. Better and better. Do you have any idea how flexible that tubing is? I'm assuming I could cut it to whatever length my rows were and put a cap on the end?

taboule · May 2, 2014

Yes emitters are built-in, that's the main point of my advice of going that route. Tubing comes in a big roll (2' diam for 100') and is a bit stiff, more so than a rubber hose (it's PVC) but easy enough to unroll and pin down to the ground using U shaped clips/wires that you also purchase. Once they sit in the sun for a bit and warm up, they get softer and easier to handle, and stay put. You cut to whatever length, then fold the end over, putting a kink in the tube. Then use an "8" shaped plastic fitting to hold the end kinked shut. Works great.

Get the dripworks catalog and look through it. None of this stuff is complicated.

oldasrocks · May 3, 2014

To get even water distribution you'll have to use an emitter line. Otherwise there will not be even watering. I bought a system from Dripline with 2 ft spaced emitters very reasonable. Each emitter drips 1/2 gallon per hour. I run 1,000 ft of line on my fenceline for the blackberries.

You'll never get enough water to 300 tomatoes with 2 rain barrels. I assume you have to run hose to the garden anyway so why not hook it to a faucet?

jflournoy · May 3, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by taboule

Yes emitters are built-in, that's the main point of my advice of going that route. Tubing comes in a big roll (2' diam for 100') and is a bit stiff, more so than a rubber hose (it's PVC) but easy enough to unroll and pin down to the ground using U shaped clips/wires that you also purchase. Once they sit in the sun for a bit and warm up, they get softer and easier to handle, and stay put. You cut to whatever length, then fold the end over, putting a kink in the tube. Then use an "8" shaped plastic fitting to hold the end kinked shut. Works great.

Get the dripworks catalog and look through it. None of this stuff is complicated.

Thanks, great info. And I just requested their catalog, can't wait to get it and have a good look through.

jflournoy · May 3, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldasrocks

To get even water distribution you'll have to use an emitter line. Otherwise there will not be even watering. I bought a system from Dripline with 2 ft spaced emitters very reasonable. Each emitter drips 1/2 gallon per hour. I run 1,000 ft of line on my fenceline for the blackberries.

You'll never get enough water to 300 tomatoes with 2 rain barrels. I assume you have to run hose to the garden anyway so why not hook it to a faucet?

I could run a hose there from my house, although it's a big pain as it's 400 feet away and across my driveway. The bigger issue is that we're on well water and we have a very low-output well. We don't have enough water to water the garden with our home water supply. I'm not sure if I'm going to do the rain barrels or just use my 100 gallon portable tank that I put in the back of my truck. I go to town several times per week and can fill my tank up for $1.25 at the water plant. Use a sump pump to get the water out, or at least started, then can let the siphon take care of it from there. Where we live in Ohio we get over 40" of rain a year, so in the past we really haven't watered the garden but a few times per year, and then generally only when it's really dry. I use black plastic in the garden and it holds moisture amazingly well. In the past, the garden has been just for our own personal use, with the big tomato planting project with my son to sell some tomatoes, though, I want to make sure I have an efficient water delivery system in case it is a really dry summer.

Urbanfarmer · May 4, 2014

Before hydroponics we had many years with drip. It's a great way to go, but most of them will plug over time. Be aware of that and have replacements. Tape works very well but needs good pressure to stay unplugged. Eventually we found the best emitters for not plugging were the ones on stakes that had screw tops on them. They were nice drippers, and you could loosen the top if they got plugged.

Coming out of a tank is perfect for fertigation. Mix your nutrient in the tank and give them shots on a regular basis.....say every 3-4 waterings. You can really get some results that way.

What worked well for us was using a submersible pond pump like this one http://www.sumppumpsusa.com/little-g...ower-cord.html.

For such long lines as you plan you might need a larger pump, but the idea is the same. Use this to pressure up your lines and give them a feed.

When using rain water, remember that it has no ph buffering. Therefore, for best results, adjust the ph in the reservoir before applying. 5.6-6.5 is plenty good.

Good luck.....

oldasrocks · May 4, 2014

With emitters you can figure out the exact water usage per hour for your well. You had mentioned 300 plants? That figures to 150 gallons per hr or 2 1/2 gallon a minute.

Forget using a sump pump as its not made for continuous use or even use often. I've burnt several out. They're made to sit in the basement and maybe get used once in a great while.

jflournoy · May 5, 2014

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldasrocks

With emitters you can figure out the exact water usage per hour for your well. You had mentioned 300 plants? That figures to 150 gallons per hr or 2 1/2 gallon a minute.

Forget using a sump pump as its not made for continuous use or even use often. I've burnt several out. They're made to sit in the basement and maybe get used once in a great while.

I've said sump pump several times but what I actually meant was utility pump. I have several of those and use them all the time. Only ever burnt a single one out in almost 10 years of use.

Cole_Robbie · May 5, 2014

Since sump pumps are such a common item, there is a wide variation in quality.

My best luck with pumps in general has been to keep them primed all the time. I like plumbing them into the threaded fitting at the bottom of livestock troughs. Plastic utility sinks also have a nice fitting at the bottom if one needs a smaller tub. When the pump contains water all the time, it never has to run dry for a moment every time it starts to run.

May 4, 2014	#27
Urbanfarmer Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Freeport, Texas Posts: 134	Before hydroponics we had many years with drip. It's a great way to go, but most of them will plug over time. Be aware of that and have replacements. Tape works very well but needs good pressure to stay unplugged. Eventually we found the best emitters for not plugging were the ones on stakes that had screw tops on them. They were nice drippers, and you could loosen the top if they got plugged. Coming out of a tank is perfect for fertigation. Mix your nutrient in the tank and give them shots on a regular basis.....say every 3-4 waterings. You can really get some results that way. What worked well for us was using a submersible pond pump like this one http://www.sumppumpsusa.com/little-g...ower-cord.html. For such long lines as you plan you might need a larger pump, but the idea is the same. Use this to pressure up your lines and give them a feed. When using rain water, remember that it has no ph buffering. Therefore, for best results, adjust the ph in the reservoir before applying. 5.6-6.5 is plenty good. Good luck..... __________________ theurbanfarm.com

May 1, 2014	#16
AKmark Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Wasilla Alaska Posts: 2,010	For a tank use a shallow well pump that has a pressure switch right on the pump, it is nice though to have a pressure tank hooked into it also, I use a 20 gallon PT. I also use on demand pumps that are inline, after the tank valve, and work great. Aqua tech makes a good small pump that you can abuse for hours on end. I have 275 gallon tanks plumbed together, and have both of these system going in different greenhouse with no problems,

May 2, 2014	#17
jflournoy Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Ohio Posts: 118	Well pumps and pressure tanks are way more complicated and set-up intensive than I am interested in doing. My sump pump definitely shoots the water out at a much faster/harder rate than it comes out of the rain barrel by gravity. Doesn't that mean it would create more pressure? Maybe I should just go with regular soaker hose and put it against the ground, under the plastic, before I lay the plastic and plant my plants. Or a hard poly drip line with pre-set emitters and do the same thing, lay it under the plastic, that way I wouldn't have to worry about some of the water being wasted because the emitters weren't spaced exactly with my plant spacing?

May 2, 2014	#18
taboule Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: MA Posts: 903	Hi, you've already received lots of good advice, I'll add one last item. You can find 2ft (or 3ft, which is what i use for toms) spaced tubing with emitters at dripworks. If you layout your properly dimensioned tubing (meaning same distance between emitters that you'd use for the plants) first, on top of the plastic, then cut through the plastic exactly where the emitters are, and plant there, then no water will go anywhere except in that hole.

May 2, 2014	#19
heirloomtomaguy Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2013 Location: glendora ca Posts: 2,560	The problem you may face putting water into a restricted flow system is the possibilty of burning up the sump pump. Sump pumps are not designed to create pressure they are only used to move volume of water. The only good way to use a sump pump is to water directly into the plant openings of the plastic with a hose that has no nozzle on the end.

May 3, 2014	#24
oldasrocks Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Lebanon, Mo Posts: 59	To get even water distribution you'll have to use an emitter line. Otherwise there will not be even watering. I bought a system from Dripline with 2 ft spaced emitters very reasonable. Each emitter drips 1/2 gallon per hour. I run 1,000 ft of line on my fenceline for the blackberries. You'll never get enough water to 300 tomatoes with 2 rain barrels. I assume you have to run hose to the garden anyway so why not hook it to a faucet?

May 5, 2014	#30
Cole_Robbie Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Illinois, zone 6 Posts: 8,407	Since sump pumps are such a common item, there is a wide variation in quality. My best luck with pumps in general has been to keep them primed all the time. I like plumbing them into the threaded fitting at the bottom of livestock troughs. Plastic utility sinks also have a nice fitting at the bottom if one needs a smaller tub. When the pump contains water all the time, it never has to run dry for a moment every time it starts to run.