Coir, fiber or plastic pots

[Farmette]

In past years, our church garden group has held a plant sale fundraiser to support food pantry gardens. We have sold our organically started tomato and pepper plants in plastic pots and solo cups. This year we are thinking of using natural pots: coir or fiber (such as Fertilpots). I'd appreciate opinions on these options; feel free to recommend brands and best sources. We are looking for something relatively durable that will freely break down once planted.
Thanks in advance

[MarineCorps]

If your looking for something that breaks down then avoid coir. I just pulled a bunch of them out of the ground today that were from last year.

[Durgan]

Originally Posted by Farmette

In past years, our church garden group has held a plant sale fundraiser to support food pantry gardens. We have sold our organically started tomato and pepper plants in plastic pots and solo cups. This year we are thinking of using natural pots: coir or fiber (such as Fertilpots). I'd appreciate opinions on these options; feel free to recommend brands and best sources. We are looking for something relatively durable that will freely break down once planted.
Thanks in advance

My experience indicates that nothing breaks down adequately. Plastic cups with drain holes are probably the best. The fiber pots draw moisture form the soil and deprive the plants. What you are doing now is probably the best method with minor modifications. Here is how I handle small plants.

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?VMMSQ 30 May 2012 Germinating Seeds
Here is how I germinate all my seeds. The overall objective is to have high germination rates, and to have little or no root disturbance until planted in the final growing spot.
The reasoning behind this method is: The pots are of adequate size. The coffee filters tend to keep the roots contained when transplanting and prevent soil from leaking out of the drain holes. The plastic bags keep the humidity high and they need no further water or care until germination. The bags are removed immediately upon the first sign of germination, and the pot placed in bright as possible SUNLIGHT. Most seeds only need moisture and the proper temperature to germinate. Most do not need any light. There are one or two exceptions. I have absolutely no confidence in any artificial light and consider them to be a waste of money. My germination rate approaches 100%.

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?SLZQE 24 June 2012 Tomato seedlings growing well
The healthy tomato seedlings are almost ready to move to a larger pot.They have been in full Sun for about nine days.

[FarmerShawn]

How about no pot at all? I have used soil blocks for a couple of years, and the advantages are convincing to me. I just "potted up" almost 1500 tomato plants into 2" blocks. There is no way I would have room for them all if I had used pots of any kind. Once I have the blocker, the cost is zero. I can get 50 blocks in a standard tray. Bottom watering is easy. I have some plants I started early (for me) that are about 12" tall, and looking great, ready for planting in my greenhouse. Transplant shock is zero, with no root disturbance; just drop the block int a hole, pack it in, and water. I use a compost based blocking mix, so no extra fertilizers are needed until plantout. I love soil blocks!


There are more things in heaven and earth than are dreamt of in your philosophy.

[Durgan]

Originally Posted by FarmerShawn

How about no pot at all? I have used soil blocks for a couple of years, and the advantages are convincing to me. I just "potted up" almost 1500 tomato plants into 2" blocks. There is no way I would have room for them all if I had used pots of any kind. Once I have the blocker, the cost is zero. I can get 50 blocks in a standard tray. Bottom watering is easy. I have some plants I started early (for me) that are about 12" tall, and looking great, ready for planting in my greenhouse. Transplant shock is zero, with no root disturbance; just drop the block int a hole, pack it in, and water. I use a compost based blocking mix, so no extra fertilizers are needed until plantout. I love soil blocks!

Please post some links and some photos.

[KarenO]

how would you transport plants in soil blocks to a plant sale?
I agree that for a number of reasons I am not a fan of coir or paper pots as I do not find they break down as they are supposed to unless they are in a wet ,not moist, but a wet place. The paper fiber pots often get moldy on the outside which is not going to be good for your sales as it is unattractive even if it is harmless. Plastic is likely easier for your group, sturdier for transportation and while not biodegradable, it is recyclable and so not the environmental monster it is made out to be sometimes.
Good luck with your fundraiser, I hope you are very successful.
KarenO

[FarmerShawn]

Ok. Never posted pictures before, but here goes:
First, a picture of the inside of my small seedling greenhouse - 12X12. Next is a photo of the big plants started weeks ago, ready to transplant into the greenhouse, still in the 2" blocks. The camera flash washed them out a bit, but trust me: they look great!
The tray half-filled is the last tray I transplanted yesterday from the dense-planting germinating flats, a la Craig's method. You can see the 3/4" hole in the blocks. I just cram the seedling roots into that hole and grab a wad of wet potting soil and stuff the rest of the little hole full. I admit that I treat the little seedlings rather ungently, and these guys are sulking just a bit. They'll get over it just fine.
The next tray is the smaller 1 1/2" blocks I also use with lettuce and some sprouting bunching onions.
Following that is the tray of tomatoes I started potting up on Tuesday, already fully recovered from the rude treatment of being stuffed into a small hole, and now standing proud.
Next is my blocking setup: a tub with potting soil (I use Vermont Compost's Fort Vee - an amended compost-and-peat-based mix that contains pretty much all the nutrients they will need until plant-out.), and along the back are the sizes of block-makers I currently use - 2" (with a 3/4" hole-maker), 1 1/2" with seed divots, and a 3/4" block maker.
The mix must be pretty wet - mud-pie wet - and I keep pushing the blocker into the soil until water comes out the top of the block-maker, as shown.
Next is shown the three sizes of blocks, and you can see that the small 3/4" blocks fit right into the 2" blocks. That lets me make best use of my heating mats to germinate a bunch of seeds, and easily plop them right into the larger blocks when germination has happened. You can see the special tray inserts from Johnny's made specially for soil blocks with a wide web, but open enough that is is easy to bottom water by momentarily dropping the whole tray into a solid tray with water in it.
Then there's a few homemade tools I find useful - a 3/4 inch stick to reshape the 3/4" holes if they get deformed, a dollar-store set of tongs with the bottoms cut off square and pounded flat for moving blocks around, and a 3/4" mini-tong fashioned from a bit of aluminum flashing to allow me to easily move the 3/4" blocks into the 2" blocks.
And just for kicks, a shot of my little greenhouse from the outside, taken this morning. No real green around here yet.
Hope this works, and someone finds it informative.

[FarmerShawn]

For my farmer's market enterprise, I stumbled on a workable solution for customer transporting of a few of the blocked plants. My boss used to stop at Dunkin Donuts every day, and always had those handled cardboard trays for carrying up to six cups of coffee. He would save them for me, and I would recycle them happily. But he retired, so last year I invested in a box of them myself, and they work great for transporting several blocked plants. For bringing them to market, I just bring the flats as they are.
For sources of soil-blocking paraphernalia and information, just google "soil blocks." I got most of my tools and materials from either Johnny's or Fedco, but I know there are other sources out there.

[Durgan]

Originally Posted by FarmerShawn

Ok. Never posted pictures before, but here goes:
First, a picture of the inside of my small seedling greenhouse - 12X12. Next is a photo of the big plants started weeks ago, ready to transplant into the greenhouse, still in the 2" blocks. The camera flash washed them out a bit, but trust me: they look great!
The tray half-filled is the last tray I transplanted yesterday from the dense-planting germinating flats, a la Craig's method. You can see the 3/4" hole in the blocks. I just cram the seedling roots into that hole and grab a wad of wet potting soil and stuff the rest of the little hole full. I admit that I treat the little seedlings rather ungently, and these guys are sulking just a bit. They'll get over it just fine.
The next tray is the smaller 1 1/2" blocks I also use with lettuce and some sprouting bunching onions.
Following that is the tray of tomatoes I started potting up on Tuesday, already fully recovered from the rude treatment of being stuffed into a small hole, and now standing proud.
Next is my blocking setup: a tub with potting soil (I use Vermont Compost's Fort Vee - an amended compost-and-peat-based mix that contains pretty much all the nutrients they will need until plant-out.), and along the back are the sizes of block-makers I currently use - 2" (with a 3/4" hole-maker), 1 1/2" with seed divots, and a 3/4" block maker.
The mix must be pretty wet - mud-pie wet - and I keep pushing it into the soil until water comes out the top of the block-maker, as shown.
Next is shown the three sizes of blocks, and you can see that the small 3/4" blocks fit right into the 2" blocks. That lets me make best use of my heating mats to germinate a bunch of seeds, and easily plop them right into the larger blocks when germination has happened. You can see the special tray inserts from Johnny's made specially for soil blocks with a wide web, but open enough that is is easy to bottom water by momentarily dropping the whole tray into a solid tray with water in it.
Then there's a few homemade tools I find useful - a 3/4 inch stick to reshape the 3/4" holes if they get deformed, a dollar-store set of tongs with the bottoms cut off square and pounded flat for moving blocks around, and a 3/4" mini-tong fashioned from a bit of aluminum flashing to allow me to easily move the 3/4" blocks into the 2" blocks.
And just for kicks, a shot of my little greenhouse from the outside, taken this morning. No real green around here yet.
Hope this works, and someone finds it informative.

Beautifully done. You have a relatively severe climate. Do you heat the greenhouse? I just purchased the block soil maker today, the small one and the two inch maker. Your photos add a lot of encouragement.

[FarmerShawn]

I have just a small cheap electric heater on a thermostat set to 45 degrees F. just for protection on those low-dipping nights. I mostly only use this greenhouse for seedlings, although after it cleans out later in the spring I use it for microgreens.

[Farmette]

Thanks for all your replies and suggestions. I have alot to think about. I do know that the fiber pots are prone to mold, so that is a consideration. The soil blocks are something to mull over for next year; we are too far along I think at this point. FarmerShawn, you seem to be very successful with the soil blocks. I, too, use Craig's dense planting method due to the number of seedlings needed. When transplanting I try to put the seedling deep into the soil so that the majority of the stem is below the surface and use the canopy of leaves is visible. I imagine that works well with the soil blocks too. Don't the soil blocks fall apart when watering, even from the bottom?

One thing is that people tend to value a plant that is in a larger container, such as 3 or 4 inches. However, this is a free will donation and as such, seems to result in better results. This is the fifth year I think and each year has been better. We use the proceeds for the two gardens that provide food for the food pantry. Both gardens are listed as Master Gardener sites and we have been able to set up a drip irrigation system. Our produce is the very first to go at the food pantry and none of this would be possible without people's generosity at the plant sale.

So, again thanks for all your input. For this year, we may have to stick with the colorful solo cups and look into alternatives for next year.

[FarmerShawn]

Regarding the blocks holding together - the combination of the mix of peat and compost, plus the compression from making the blocks, knits the stuff together remarkably well so that once the original moisture has evaporated a bit, the blocks are remarkably stable, even more so once the roots tie everything together.
I know what you're saying about people's valuing larger containers more than smaller ones. I sell my blocked tomatoes for a dollar less than ones in a 3.5" pots, but I also have less invested, in pot and soil costs as well as in time and space costs. At least, that's how I justify it.


There are more things in heaven and earth than are dreamt of in your philosophy.