Member discussion regarding the methods, varieties and merits of growing tomatoes.
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March 23, 2016 | #16 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Newfoundland, Canada
Posts: 6,793
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Removing the affected leaves and burning or destroying them is a good idea. The life cycle of the pest is to drop to the ground after the leaf burrowing stage and then emerge as a mother fly. Plastic or other barrier mulch can help too, but probably not as good as sticky traps outdoors, they can come from everywhere.
The adults are easy to recognize. They look like a small housefly but with prominent yellow spots on the face. |
March 23, 2016 | #17 | |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Plantation, Florida zone 10
Posts: 9,283
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March 23, 2016 | #18 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: San Diego-Tijuana
Posts: 2,594
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The way I understand it, Spinosad is a selection of two compounds ( Spynosyn A and D) that while derived from fungal isolates, are not infectious agents. It acts directly on the nervous system of the bugs, also playing with neurotransmitters the way conventional insecticides do, although on a different receptor.
BT Is also a compound isolated from a microbe that acts as an endotoxin inside the bugs and eventually causes them to die from their gut derangement. Met52 is an infectious agent (spore) and does start to propagate inside them. As long as they work, it doesn't really matter. Last edited by Gerardo; March 23, 2016 at 06:57 PM. |
March 23, 2016 | #19 |
Tomatovillian™
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: south texas
Posts: 114
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Your right Gerardo, When I started using Spinosad I didn't see the need for BT. Spinsoad keeps the tomato plants clean from worm damage. It will last about 2 weeks. Where I live I have heavy worm problems and had trouble getting control of the worms with BT. Now if we could find a way to keep the Stink Bugs from damaging the tomatoes .
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