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Old July 9, 2013   #1
Tom A To
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Default Fix Your Pocket Hose

My wife and I like the Pocket Hose so much, we don't want to give them up even though two of the four we own have developed leaks at or near the fittings on both ends. After a number of attempts I think I have a solution that works, at least for a while. Long term is yet to be tested.

After cutting the leaky part of the rubber hose and fabric from the fitting on the end that leaks, you slide a hose clamp over the hose loosely, slide the rubber part back onto the fitting and slip the fabric up over that. Now, what makes this particular method work (theoretically) is good ol' duct tape. Wrap a few layers around the fitting a few times before you slide the hose clamp up into place and tighten. Clamps by themselves will not fix the problem because the metal is not malleable and pinches and tears the fabric and the rubber hose itself, so that fix only lasts for a couple of uses. The duct tape also serves to minimize the bending of the hose right at the fitting.

The fitting at the end of the hose which attaches to your faucet has an aluminum collar which must be removed. This is easily done with a dremel device or similar.

Perhaps the manufacturer will eventually get around to modifying their process. I think many folks will pay a few extra bucks not to have to drag a big, heavy hose around.

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Old July 9, 2013   #2
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I wish someone would do a hydro test on the various hoses and see what PSI they rupture at.
I have never seen a PSI rating on any of the hoses.
I see the X hose has one with brass fittings, and it has the DAP name so it has to be good.

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Old July 9, 2013   #3
Rockporter
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My husband has fixed my pocket hose in much the same way, twice. In the trash it went because it still leaked the minute the water was turned on low. It leaked in both placed possible.
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Old July 9, 2013   #4
Tom A To
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My husband has fixed my pocket hose in much the same way, twice. In the trash it went because it still leaked the minute the water was turned on low. It leaked in both placed possible.
Did he use the duct tape? I think that is the secret.
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Old July 9, 2013   #5
MikeInCypress
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Worth,
I had two of the Greenies but they only lasted about 30 days. I saw the DAP Product and have ordered 2 on line. I will keep the warranty and receipt where I know they are so if they blow I will ask for my money back. I had both of the Greenies on restricted flow lines and they still blew. The concept is great but the execution has left something to be desired,

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Old July 10, 2013   #6
Rockporter
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Did he use the duct tape? I think that is the secret.
Oh yeah, he used the duct tape but the thing blew right out the front and then the back again. Trash is all they are and it was a waste of money to begin with. I like the lightweight design and it helped my arthritic hands but it is a very bad design on the connectors.
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Old July 10, 2013   #7
Redbaron
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I wish I had one of those hoses to get a good look at it up close, inside and out. What kind of hose barb? material of the inner hose? etc.. But if the problem is connectors, I am 100% certain there is a relatively easy solution. I spent many years working in the marine industry working on all types of hoses and fittings. Everything from jet skis to mega yachts of the rich and famous to mud boats (OSV) in the gulf to off shore ocean going tugs. Generally simply cutting a sleeve made from hose to cover the stressed area and both hose clamping and sealing with a proper marine grade caulk like 5200 will solve it. In some cases you may need 2 sleeves, one inside and one outside. Several possible clamps could be used. In any case I am sure there is a relatively easy and quick solution. I like the duct tape idea, but tommy tape would be better as tapes go, a hose sleeve better yet probably. There are even a few marine grade glued shrink wraps that might work depending on what you have going on inside there with materials etc... The key of course is to remove the stress to the hose at the point of the connection.
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Old July 12, 2013   #8
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Yeah, my husband spent 29 years in the Navy so I am sure he knows exactly what you are speaking of regarding fittings and glues, etc. I will have to ask him what he did to fix mine. He has done it twice-two different ways and it has failed both times. The second time it leaked at both ends after the pressure was put on.
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Old July 20, 2013   #9
rwsacto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redbaron View Post
I wish I had one of those hoses to get a good look at it up close, inside and out. What kind of hose barb? material of the inner hose? etc.. But if the problem is connectors, I am 100% certain there is a relatively easy solution. I spent many years working in the marine industry working on all types of hoses and fittings. Everything from jet skis to mega yachts of the rich and famous to mud boats (OSV) in the gulf to off shore ocean going tugs. Generally simply cutting a sleeve made from hose to cover the stressed area and both hose clamping and sealing with a proper marine grade caulk like 5200 will solve it. In some cases you may need 2 sleeves, one inside and one outside. Several possible clamps could be used. In any case I am sure there is a relatively easy and quick solution. I like the duct tape idea, but tommy tape would be better as tapes go, a hose sleeve better yet probably. There are even a few marine grade glued shrink wraps that might work depending on what you have going on inside there with materials etc... The key of course is to remove the stress to the hose at the point of the connection.
For your fixing pleasure. Of course this is the one I gave to a relative (thanks for nothing!). I think the best fix is to find the receipt.

Rick
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Old July 20, 2013   #10
Tom A To
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For your fixing pleasure. Of course this is the one I gave to a relative (thanks for nothing!). I think the best fix is to find the receipt.

Rick
Perhaps, but I will mention that the fix with the Duct tape continues to hold strong on both hoses I repaired. So-o-o, while some have thrown their hoses away or taken them back to the store, my wife and I continue to use ours daily, enjoying the benefits of not having to lug around an Anaconda. Sometimes it pays not to give up so easily.
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Old July 20, 2013   #11
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I'm going to make some swags here, or maybe they are just plain wags.

I suspect water pressure varies from one place to the next and higher pressure most likely beats the hose up more. More pressure and higher flow rates most likely snap the hose out quicker and harder thus tearing the end. Solution. Put a pressure regulator before the hose and turn it down as low as you can deal with.

It looks like it is easy to twist on the hose when attaching it to a hose bib and a nozzle. Solution make or but short pigtails that you leave attached to the hose.
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Old July 20, 2013   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwsacto View Post
For your fixing pleasure. Of course this is the one I gave to a relative (thanks for nothing!). I think the best fix is to find the receipt.

Rick

Hose sleeve This is what it needs, cut about 3" at least. If you can find it in the right size. But without a crimping tool and the right size band it would be difficult for an average customer to remake the original connection. So you would need to eliminate the cheap sleeve it came with & replace it with a proper hose sleeve and clamp it similar to Tom A To's duct tape fix. I might go with a completely new fitting too, if I had a good marine hardware store in the area. A lot of work to fix a crap hose though.
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Old July 20, 2013   #13
Tom A To
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redbaron View Post
Hose sleeve This is what it needs, cut about 3" at least. If you can find it in the right size. But without a crimping tool and the right size band it would be difficult for an average customer to remake the original connection. So you would need to eliminate the cheap sleeve it came with & replace it with a proper hose sleeve and clamp it similar to Tom A To's duct tape fix. I might go with a completely new fitting too, if I had a good marine hardware store in the area. A lot of work to fix a crap hose though.
I don't argue that it is indeed a crap hose. But for 20 bucks, it is the only thing out there that is widely available which will make watering potted plants - we have a million of'em - a lot less of a chore if only one spends the time and effort to improve on the design. That is the driving force for us.

A small sampling of our potted plants. You can see why a lightweight hose is an advantage and why I persist.



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Last edited by Tom A To; July 20, 2013 at 10:26 AM.
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Old July 20, 2013   #14
Rockporter
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Originally Posted by Doug9345 View Post
I'm going to make some swags here, or maybe they are just plain wags.

I suspect water pressure varies from one place to the next and higher pressure most likely beats the hose up more. More pressure and higher flow rates most likely snap the hose out quicker and harder thus tearing the end. Solution. Put a pressure regulator before the hose and turn it down as low as you can deal with.

It looks like it is easy to twist on the hose when attaching it to a hose bib and a nozzle. Solution make or but short pigtails that you leave attached to the hose.
I agree about the water pressures being different for all but my friend who has a well and the pressure is only 15lbs coming out had her hose break the third time she used it. This hose has a real problem with quality control.
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Old July 20, 2013   #15
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My pocket hose lasted 20 minutes. It blew 2 pin holes about midway in the hose while I had it under pressure just trying to put my hose end feeder on it. It was nice for the 19 minutes it worked, but $1 per minute is a bit too steep for me.

Charley
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