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Old May 23, 2016   #1
MrSalvage
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Default Do i have enough pressure for BIY drip line or tape system?

Hello, I have been studying the different type's irrigation. It seems as drip tape would be the most cost effective. However I have some concerns that my '"Well" will be able to handle the tape.

Then there is the fact that i want to plant out as much of my property as possible in the years to come. Yep it will take years as i am only 1 old man. lol

Anyway i been gathering as much information as I can. So I can determine what is best for this crazy piece of property that i live on.

So do i have enough pressure for to run a drip line or tape system? Will I be able to build a setup that can fulfill my needs into the future?

I am going to start adding some pictures to help with all the info / data needed to make a decent guess.

If i need more info by the end of my posts please tell me what that might be.

I am still learning all the lingo that goes with this hobby. So please be easy on a rookie.

As always thanks in advance for your any of your time.
Bill
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Old May 23, 2016   #2
MrSalvage
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Here are some measurements...

The red line to the left feeds water to the mobile home.

The red line on the right just gives some distance to understand better.

As you can see I have a bit of a valley that runs through the property. err
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Last edited by MrSalvage; May 23, 2016 at 05:45 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old May 23, 2016   #3
MrSalvage
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Here is my brand new submersible well pump. I have forgot exactly how far down that pump is. I want to say 25 to 30 ft. I can go and pop the well cover and get a measurement if needed.
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Old May 23, 2016   #4
MrSalvage
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This is the line that runs from the well to the mobile home. I tried to get 1 picture of what the line said on it. However it just wasn't in the cards. So here is three... Sorry

1" 160# PSI @ 73.4 Fahrenheit Orangeburg Poly - Xtra Pe3408
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Last edited by MrSalvage; May 23, 2016 at 05:43 PM. Reason: Added data to the post...
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Old May 23, 2016   #5
MrSalvage
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This is the model number on my pressure switch Model #: FSG2J21CP. I have it set real close to 30 PSI

The Square D by Schneider Electric pressure switch works with jet pumps, submersible pumps and reciprocating pumps and the 30 - 50 PSI pressure switch features a 1/4-in pressure connection
Suitable for jet pumps, submersible pumps and reciprocating pumps
30 - 50 PSI
Standard action contacts
Maximum pressure 220 PSIg
Captive cover screw
Single and 3 phase rated
Can be mounted in any position
Conduit plug included

http://www.lowes.com/pd_67599-296-FS...ductId=3134937
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Old May 23, 2016   #6
MrSalvage
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I wanna say that I put a (Utilitech 36-Gallon Vertical Pressure Tank) in the top of the well. I can't seem to find the pictures of it anywhere. So i will need to go up and pop the lid to be sure which one.

Here is some info from the Lowe's website as well.

36-Gallon Vertical Pressure Tank

Composite base assures 100% paint coverage for added exterior corrosion resistance
Revolutionary parabolic diaphragm design eliminates internal rubbing of the tank wall, the primary cause of diaphragm failure
Exterior powder coat paint for long life and anti-corrosion, certified to autmotive ASTM Standards
Powder coated interior shell protects against corrosion, assures long trouble free life
The primary purpose of this tank is to protect your pump
NSF 61G and 372 No-Lead Certified
Larger than industry standard tanks providing more drawdown for longer pump life
Please be certain you are selecting the right tank for the job
You can only undersize a well tank you cannot oversize it

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1
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Old May 23, 2016   #7
MrSalvage
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Here is a reverse look from the lil garden I have going at the moment. You can see the impression in the ground just before the right red line. That is where the line from the well goes to the mobile home.
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Old May 23, 2016   #8
MrSalvage
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(Side tracked for a second)
It's raining like all heck right now. In fact it has rained all month. I think this might go down as the most rain we have ever had here in record keeping history. We are getting ready to break 9 inches of rain. We usually only get two. Anyway i haven't been able to get into the garden to finish planting everything. I think all my plants are sick. Way way to much water...

Now...
I can go back and confirm the correct pressure tank & pressure switch. I just need to pop the lid off the well.


(Before I forget I wanna add a little more data.) That line that runs the water from the well down to the gate valves under the M/H.

I have a 1 inch adapter to a 3/4 gate valve with hose bib. Then a small piece of pex to another 3/4 gate valve. This way i can cut the water off in the M/H and still have water outside.

I also have a crap load of 10 ft sections of 1/2 & 3/4 pex here and a lot of fittings. So I can put water anywhere I need it with in reason.

I also have a little garden out in front of the house. It's 16 x 5 for her flowers and stuff. i would like to include that area right off the bat for this system.

{Anyway... It was suggested to me to run 3/4 poly main line and then hook up drip tape for my rows. Yep I am going to need some misc stuff like valves ect. I just want to be sure that 3/4 is going to be big enough considering the well is so far away.}

( I was also asked to Check my pressure and gallons per minute at the well. )

I do have a gauge on the well. But it is not plumb in to get water from it up there. Granted i can certainly plumb that in if needed.

So what do you guys and gals think? Where should I start?

Again thanks for any info you might provide.

Bill
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Old May 23, 2016   #9
whistech
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One of the first things to know is how many gallons per minute you have coming out at the hose bib at the mobile home or wherever you plan on starting the drip tape. Once we know that, then we can figure out how many feet of drip tape you can water with at any one time. I suspect you will be able to water a lot of rows at one time.
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Old May 23, 2016   #10
AlittleSalt
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Arlie, I completely agree.

I have 1,200' of 3/4" PVC from the meter to the house. It easily takes care of a 45x45' garden's drip irrigation.
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Old May 23, 2016   #11
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Lets say all things being equal on your up hill down hill thing.
I need elevation.
But if you are going down hill for 188 feet on a certain slope and going up 100 feet on the same degree of angle or grade.
You will gain around 34 PSI alone just from the fact that water head pressure is 4.3 pounds for every 10 feet of elevation.
You have 188 going down and 100 going up.
The 100 feet down and up equalizes and you gain the pressure of 88 feet worth of head.
That is if the elevations are as I said but they aren't.
What is the difference in elevation from one point to the other?

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Old May 24, 2016   #12
MrSalvage
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My water line is 202 ft down and 63 ft up Worth1. So then based on what you said I would have 141 ft of head. So does that give me an extra 60 PSI?

(The water line is only under that "left red line" I made on that picture. There is nothing under the "right" side line Worth. Only a measurement sir.)

As far as elevation the grade or angle of both hills are about the same. But as you can see in the picture the up hill is rather short @ 63 ft. This is where the water goes into the M/H

---

Now this is where it gets confusing to me. Do I need to figure out GPM at the well or at the house? I do not have a hose bib up at the well. I do have one right at the back of the mobile home.

Thank you Arlie, Salt & Worth...
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Old May 24, 2016   #13
MrSalvage
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I added a lil more info in this picture about where my water line is.
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Old May 24, 2016   #14
Worth1
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Getting late I will draw a description of what I am talking about tomorrow.
As with elevation and pressure.
One way to do it is to get a hose run it from the source and to the garden with water in it.
Put a gauge at the garden end with no pressure from the tap.
Put another gauge at the source.
This will show you the pressure gain and the difference in elevation.
Think water tower.
A 100 foot full water tower will have about 43 PSI at the bottom.
This is why there is a tank at the top and a pipe going down.
If the town is another 100 feet in elevation below that you will have 86 PSI.
If the town is 100 feet above the bottom of the tower you will have 0 PSI.
If the pipe going to the town goes up 50 feet and then back down 50 feet.
The 50 foot mark up will lose 21.5 psi but will gain it back on the next down hill side.
This is due to the siphon effect.
This same effect is how you measuer pressure in the ocean at depth.
If you go down 100 feet you will have a lot of pressure on you like 59 psi.

Some place on this forum I have all of this drawn out.
Worth
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Old May 24, 2016   #15
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Sorry, MrSalvage but I think you are misdescribing almost everything. Look at your waterline
from the well to the home. You say 202' downhill and then 63' uphill but I do not believe for
one second that these numbers are the vertical difference. The picture just does not look like
a 202' change in elevation. Then look at your "uphill" portion. The line you draw for that part,
although it may not be fully representative, is not even equal to the height of the home, which
surely is not more than about twenty feet.

You need to understand that water pressure in a closed system depends on the vertical
distance and that the horizontal distances really have nothing to do with it until you start
running water through those pipes and hoses. I suggest you go and get yourself an
inexpensive laser level and measure those vertical differences, in steps if you have to.
Then you will have a much better idea of what you need to do.
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