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General discussion regarding the techniques and methods used to successfully grow tomato plants in containers.

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Old October 8, 2015   #1
jillian
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Default vermiculite or perlite?

Wondering which is best for container gardening. Making my own mix. Info I have gather is conflicting. Opinions, anyone? Does it really matter which one to use?
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Old October 8, 2015   #2
KarenO
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http://homeguides.sfgate.com/differe...ite-71758.html

They can be used interchangeably but vermiculite has more water and nutrient holding capacity. I believe perlite is less expensive. Overall cost may be the main consideration depending on what you want it for. As far as aeration, both are about the same.

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Old October 8, 2015   #3
Zenbaas
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Interesting. I was under the impression that perlite had better aeration properties than vermiculite.

Last year my hydroponic growing media was perlite. This year it is vermiculite. Results seem to be slightly better with the vermiculite thus far.
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Old October 8, 2015   #4
Cole_Robbie
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Generally speaking, perlite holds air and vermiculite holds water.

The caveat is that each product comes in different granular sizes. The coarser the grain, the more air it will hold.

Don't breathe the dust from either one.
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Old October 8, 2015   #5
Worth1
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Vermiculite got a bad rap from a Montana mine that was also contaminated with asbestos.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vermic...r_health_risks

This mine has been shut down but too late for one of my friends that worked there.
Here is what the CDC says about perlite.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...BQsiBJXssYCiYQ

I may not wear a dust mask but I stay up wind of things that give off dust.

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Old October 8, 2015   #6
Gerardo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Worth1 View Post
Vermiculite got a bad rap from a Montana mine that was also contaminated with asbestos.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vermic...r_health_risks

This mine has been shut down but too late for one of my friends that worked there.
Here is what the CDC says about perlite.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...BQsiBJXssYCiYQ

I may not wear a dust mask but I stay up wind of things that give off dust.

Worth
I bought a big bag of perlite (aztec, a company out of Escondido) and even though it's pretty coarse, the fine dust is everywhere almost instantaneously. A simple N95 from 3M works just fine and I breathe in with no fear--they don't intrude too badly. The duckbill type rock too.

PS They also help when adding the powders to my mix, alfalfa, crab, bone meals, tomato tone, etc. Otherwise, those fishy-tomato tone boogers are not pleasant.

Last edited by Gerardo; October 8, 2015 at 08:00 PM.
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Old October 8, 2015   #7
Worth1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerardo View Post
I bought a big bag of perlite (aztec, a company out of Escondido) and even though it's pretty coarse, the fine dust is everywhere almost instantaneously. A simple N95 from 3M works just fine and I breathe in with no fear--they don't intrude too badly. The duckbill type rock too.

PS They also help when adding the powders to my mix, alfalfa, crab, bone meals, tomato tone, etc. Otherwise, those fishy-tomato tone boogers are not pleasant.
I think the last time I messed with the stuff was 4 years ago for some potted plants.
I do have some 3M dust masks and a really nice respirator when I spray paint.

Worth
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Old October 8, 2015   #8
MissS
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I use perlite to amend my potting soil and help with aeration and drainage. I use vermiculite for seed starting because it holds moisture and is rather fine. Vermiculite does not last and will break down into a clay-like substance which just seems to prevent the aeration that I was trying to create, which is why I do not add it to my pots.
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Old October 8, 2015   #9
KarenO
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You can wet down your perlite and vermiculite before mixing with your other components. it doesn't stick together and its way less messy/dusty/breathable when wet
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Old October 8, 2015   #10
Cole_Robbie
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I start seeds in either straight vermiculite, or sometimes with pro mix in the bottom and vermiculite on top with the seeds. The great thing about vermiculite is that it will not crust over on top like peat-based pro mix, which makes a crust when dried out that sprouts cannot penetrate.

I buy my vermiculite at Menard's. It is sold as insulation, but the label says "product of Sun Gro horticultural company."
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Old October 9, 2015   #11
jillian
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Thanks everyone for all the helpful info. I am going with perlite for transplants, vermiculite for seed starting. Seems to me if the soil mixture is good moisture retention would not be an issue, so perlite it is.
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Old October 20, 2015   #12
RomanX
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Default newbie research re vermiculite and perlite in mixes

This is only my first year starting seeds and growing tomatoes in containers, so researched combo mixes for varying stages on the "Net, relying on info from dif. state universities and state ag extension docs.

Summerizing: While both lighten up any mix and promote drainage, perlite provides NO nutrients while vermiculite provides Mg. Perlite was recommended for transplant mixes, and vermiculite for container mixes. But for reasons that still escape me, vermiculite was recomended for lightly covering surface sown seed, to help with germination.

Results of my first year were highly successful (at least until my 'mater plants got hit hard by late blight!)
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Old October 20, 2015   #13
Gerardo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KarenO View Post
You can wet down your perlite and vermiculite before mixing with your other components. it doesn't stick together and its way less messy/dusty/breathable when wet
KarenO
thanks for the great tip!
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Old October 20, 2015   #14
Zenbaas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerardo View Post
thanks for the great tip!
I found vermiculite much easier to work with than perlite. Perlite is always very dusty whereas vermiculite wasn't nearly as bad. Also has to do with the size of the grains of course.
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Old October 21, 2015   #15
travis
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Vermiculite retains moisture which is why it makes a superior layer in which to germinate the tomato seeds. I have used vermiculite successfully as the sole component of sprouting medium at times. However, I prefer to mix it with peat, coir and other stuff as well.

Spagnum moss (peat moss) also retains moisture, and serves the same purpose, but characteristically clings to the sprout heads, dries out as the sprouts push upward, and sometimes causes "helmet heads" or "stick tights" that inhibit the quick opening of the cotyledons (seed leaves) especially in older, weaker, or dried out tomato seeds.

I do not see perlite and vermiculite as serving the same purpose in a seed starting mix. Yes, they can both "lighten the mix" in terms of gross weight (if that really makes a difference in purely seed starting mix), but perlite is light, fluffy, and dries out quickly, usually floating to the top of the germination cells, and blows around when you expose the tray to natural wind or a fan. Personally, I find perlite a big PITA to deal with when mixing and loading starter mix into trays when working out of doors or where ventiling fans are running.

Again, vermiculite retains moisture, and basically substitutes for a baked clay or a peat product in that regard when formulating a mix. Plus, its basic grain size is greater than peat, and clay is problematic in other regards, and vermiculite at the correct grain size will not generally cling to the sprouts as does peat and wet clay.

Last edited by travis; October 21, 2015 at 02:12 PM.
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