fluorescent grow lights - Page 3

lumierefrere · February 15, 2009

I just haven't had much success in the last two years. I can swap out all the bulbs for new ones but I have swapped bulbs and have a spare waiting. Everything just gets so leggy while down at the farmer's market where they have a rudimentary greenhouse and no lights, everything is stocky and beautiful. That convinced me I had to try something else/try harder. Maybe using mylar to reflect more of the light will help, that was an element I wasn't aware of. The last 2 years have been such crummy growing seasons that I want the seedlings as great as they can be when I plant out because the weather sure isn't going to cooperate! Maybe I should start knitting coats for all the plants, too, what with the cool nights!

amideutch · February 15, 2009

Cool whites are around 4400k. During the grow phase you want ideally anything from 4400k up to 6400k with lights in the 5500k to 6400k (Blue) range preferred. For blooming your warm whites which are in the 2600k (Red) range are preferred. I'm looking for strong stocky seedlings hence my choice of the 5500k/6400k lights. Ami

Jackster · February 15, 2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by lumierefrere

I just haven't had much success in the last two years. I can swap out all the bulbs for new ones but I have swapped bulbs and have a spare waiting. Everything just gets so leggy while down at the farmer's market where they have a rudimentary greenhouse and no lights, everything is stocky and beautiful. That convinced me I had to try something else/try harder. Maybe using mylar to reflect more of the light will help, that was an element I wasn't aware of. The last 2 years have been such crummy growing seasons that I want the seedlings as great as they can be when I plant out because the weather sure isn't going to cooperate! Maybe I should start knitting coats for all the plants, too, what with the cool nights!

lol, I'm glad I'm not the only one that had less than mediocre growing seasons the past 2 years. I've learned more each time, but it is frustrating. I had gotten some tomatoes, eggplant, and canteloupes from a nursery, and even they were pretty much failures.

Jackster

bluelacedredhead · February 15, 2009

Never used anything but cool white tubes
Just paid close attention to the height of the fixture and when I find seedlings getting too leggy, it's time for a transplant to the next size of cell/container/garden.

feldon30 · February 16, 2009

Plant Lights are exorbitant.

You're perfectly fine to use 1 Cool White and 1 Daylight Deluxe.

feldon30 · February 16, 2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by lumierefrere

Everything just gets so leggy while down at the farmer's market where they have a rudimentary greenhouse and no lights, everything is stocky and beautiful.

Those stocky seedlings are grown in 50-60 degrees which makes them grow slower. Also, I found out that they are sprayed with growth inhibitors.

I just keep the light bulbs within 1 inch of the tops of the plants. Do you have a fan running on your plants to force them to grow stronger stems?

Keep in mind I've never had a problem with getting tomatoes even out of leggy plants.

pbud · February 16, 2009

Another vote for plain cool white tubes. I've never had a problem getting stocky seedlings. I do pay close attention to keeping them very close to the tubes and my plants are in a cool room (55 - 62). Good luck.

huntoften · February 16, 2009

One cool, one warm...VERY close to the seedlings gets my vote as well!

lumierefrere · March 3, 2009

I have taken all the advice into account. Some tasks are more easily achieved than others--some are non-starters. I'll check the bulbs to make sure what I have. The mylar sheet suggestion really appealed to me so I decided to do that when I read it and just now acted upon it. You can get the mylar space blankets on ebay for $1.25. For the size of my set-up that's perfect and I don't mind cutting them up at that price.

Thanks for all the help.

Barb

amideutch · March 3, 2009

Finally got my lights wired up and here's what they look like lit up. Ami

dave · March 4, 2009

of the 25 types of tomatoes I have started this year I can not get the KBX to germinate. I purchased the seed in feb.and they been on heat mats for at least 10 days. It's getting to late to order more as I plant out in early April. Is this typical of KBX? dave

amideutch · March 4, 2009

I know Ray had some late germination with KBX seeds I sent him. I found one of my batches was slow to germinate but the others were up and running in a week. Don't give up the ship just yet, give them another 10. Ami

geeboss · March 4, 2009

Try placing the KBX mix/seeds in your oven with the oven light turned on and the oven door wedged open 1/4 inch. See if that will provide addition heat for the mix and assist in germination.

George

February 15, 2009	#32
amideutch Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E Posts: 5,041	Cool whites are around 4400k. During the grow phase you want ideally anything from 4400k up to 6400k with lights in the 5500k to 6400k (Blue) range preferred. For blooming your warm whites which are in the 2600k (Red) range are preferred. I'm looking for strong stocky seedlings hence my choice of the 5500k/6400k lights. Ami __________________ Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘...Holy Crap .....What a ride!'

February 16, 2009	#35
feldon30 Tomatovillian™ Join Date: May 2006 Location: Rock Hill, SC Posts: 5,346	Plant Lights are exorbitant. You're perfectly fine to use 1 Cool White and 1 Daylight Deluxe. __________________ [SIZE="3"]I've relaunched my gardening website -- [B]TheUnconventionalTomato.com[/B][/SIZE] * [I][SIZE="1"]*I'm not allowed to post weblinks so you'll have to copy-paste it manually.[/SIZE][/I]

February 16, 2009	#38
huntoften Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Kansas CIty Posts: 560	One cool, one warm...VERY close to the seedlings gets my vote as well! __________________ Kansas City, Missouri Zone 5b/6a

March 4, 2009	#41
dave Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Broken Arrow, oklahoma Posts: 23	KBX of the 25 types of tomatoes I have started this year I can not get the KBX to germinate. I purchased the seed in feb.and they been on heat mats for at least 10 days. It's getting to late to order more as I plant out in early April. Is this typical of KBX? dave

March 4, 2009	#42
amideutch Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Germany 49°26"N 07°36"E Posts: 5,041	I know Ray had some late germination with KBX seeds I sent him. I found one of my batches was slow to germinate but the others were up and running in a week. Don't give up the ship just yet, give them another 10. Ami __________________ Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘...Holy Crap .....What a ride!'

February 15, 2009	#31
lumierefrere Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Zone 4 NY Posts: 772	I just haven't had much success in the last two years. I can swap out all the bulbs for new ones but I have swapped bulbs and have a spare waiting. Everything just gets so leggy while down at the farmer's market where they have a rudimentary greenhouse and no lights, everything is stocky and beautiful. That convinced me I had to try something else/try harder. Maybe using mylar to reflect more of the light will help, that was an element I wasn't aware of. The last 2 years have been such crummy growing seasons that I want the seedlings as great as they can be when I plant out because the weather sure isn't going to cooperate! Maybe I should start knitting coats for all the plants, too, what with the cool nights!

February 15, 2009	#34
bluelacedredhead Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Northwest shore of Lake Ontario Zone 6b Posts: 117	Never used anything but cool white tubes Just paid close attention to the height of the fixture and when I find seedlings getting too leggy, it's time for a transplant to the next size of cell/container/garden.

February 16, 2009	#37
pbud Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Bay Area Posts: 173	Another vote for plain cool white tubes. I've never had a problem getting stocky seedlings. I do pay close attention to keeping them very close to the tubes and my plants are in a cool room (55 - 62). Good luck.

March 3, 2009	#39
lumierefrere Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Zone 4 NY Posts: 772	I have taken all the advice into account. Some tasks are more easily achieved than others--some are non-starters. I'll check the bulbs to make sure what I have. The mylar sheet suggestion really appealed to me so I decided to do that when I read it and just now acted upon it. You can get the mylar space blankets on ebay for $1.25. For the size of my set-up that's perfect and I don't mind cutting them up at that price. Thanks for all the help. Barb

March 4, 2009	#43
geeboss Tomatovillian™ Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Fairfax, VA Z7 Posts: 524	Try placing the KBX mix/seeds in your oven with the oven light turned on and the oven door wedged open 1/4 inch. See if that will provide addition heat for the mix and assist in germination. George