New to growing your own tomatoes? This is the forum to learn the successful techniques used by seasoned tomato growers. Questions are welcome, too.
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January 23, 2015 | #1 |
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Soil for RePlanting Questions
Over half the tomato and pepper plants I have started in cells and small cups are up with two leaves. Eventually, I want to transplant them into larger Hefty cups, plastic Folgers coffee cans, and in flower pots. (That's what I have)
First question: Do I need to wait until the seedlings have more leaves on them before transplanting into larger containers? This part is about the soil to use in the larger containers. My idea is not about saving money - even though it would. I was thinking that mixing pro mix with the garden soil they will eventually be growing in - might be advantageous? That would give the plants all of February and most of March time to get used to our garden soil and still get the benefits from the pro mix. Other question: Do you think the above paragraph is a good idea? If not, feel free to shoot holes in it I want to do whatever is best for our plants. Oh, I also did plant a few in 18oz. cups as I wrote about in another thread here in the Starting From Seed place/forum/area. I figure that way, I can see any possible differences in planting from seed in different approaches. |
January 23, 2015 | #2 |
Tomatovillian™
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Anytime you use containers, I believe in using potting MIX and not soil. Soil tends to be heavy/dense and not good for the health of roots imo when in containers. I use regular miracle gro potting mix (whatever can be had at the big box stores) in red party/beer cups and 2.5 months is max for tomatoes in that container size.
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Subirrigated Container gardening (RGGS) in NY, Zone 7! |
January 24, 2015 | #3 | |
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Quote:
Answer to first question. Yes they need to get much bigger. I wont say how tall because of the possibility of elongated growth. So I will say at the very least 4 to 5 true sets of leaves. You will know when it is time to transplant because you wont be able to keep up with the watering. It is very important at this time to not over water let the top of the soil dry out between watering or you will end up having damping off problems. Damping off can plague you up until the plants main stem is almost the size of a pencil but not quite. Use the solution of 1 part hydrogen peroxide to ten parts water and spray the soil. \This will help stop damping off. You dont have to be exact just eyeball it. Answer to second question. Use the potting mix as suggested. The new roots that grow into your soil never knew what the potting mix was to begin with, they are new roots. I use the MG organic potting mix and just pick out the bigger sticks. When you put the plants in the bigger containers you will more than likely start to see some leaves with white splotches on them just cut of the leaves. Then when you plant them out cut off the lower leaves. Then in about 3 weeks after the plants are bigger about 2 feet tall cut the lower branches off again. At any time a leaf starts to hit the ground cut it back. Your plants should look like little palm trees in your garden for quite sometime. Worth |
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January 24, 2015 | #4 |
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Thank you Luigiwu and Worth. Potting Mix it is.
Elongated growth. Is that the same thing as what I've been reading about seedlings being leggy? I'm adding 5 pics. The first two are with both light fixtures on and no photo editing. They are 4' lights with four florescent 40W tubes/bulbs. The last three pictures are with one of the light fixtures off. I also photo edited out light so the plants could be seen better. In the 4th picture, the tall plants in the center are Shi-Shi-To peppers. They are about 2.75" tall. I know I need to start thinning each cell and small pot down to one plant each. I planted two seeds in each, and most of them have two seedlings coming up. Should I wait to thin them out until they start producing more leaves - or go ahead and thin them out today? Worth, the rest of your advice is spot-on with how I plan on caring for these tomatoes and peppers. I've experience plants that I didn't cut the lower branches and that just adds headaches. Last edited by AlittleSalt; January 24, 2015 at 12:09 PM. Reason: Mix, not Soil. |
January 24, 2015 | #5 |
Tomatovillian™
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um, potting SOIL is different from potting MIX.
I just wanted to point it out in case you didn't know as you said potting SOIL above. The packages will be labelled accordingly. Also, you can also google to make you own DIY potting MIX from peat, compost, and perlite. Some of your seedlings look leggy already maybe? hard to tell without scale. I think your light needs to be much much closer - no more than 2-inches. If there is a height difference, prop the bottom of the squatter/shorter containers so the tops of all the seedlings are all the same height to have the same relationship to the light source. (I use cans, inverted cups, etc.)
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Subirrigated Container gardening (RGGS) in NY, Zone 7! Last edited by luigiwu; January 24, 2015 at 12:17 PM. |
January 24, 2015 | #6 |
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I did mean Mix. I'll edit it. Thank you for pointing it out. I will have to prop some of them up.
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January 24, 2015 | #7 |
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I really enjoyed growing from seed last year. It was a lot of babying (as I started probably a week sooner than I should have) but super rewarding. I am sitting on my hands - I want to be having that kind of fun already! Its at least another month before I can start.
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Subirrigated Container gardening (RGGS) in NY, Zone 7! |
January 24, 2015 | #8 |
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I wouldn't even think about thinning anything out yet.
And yes elongated growth is the same thing as leggy. I cannot stress to you how important that the seedlings get as much light as you can put on them. Some look really elongated. (All plants) need to be almost touching the light. Worth |
January 24, 2015 | #9 |
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I changed the light height and added another 4' fixture. There is another shelf not pictured about 5' high, so I had to reach in 4' to drill holes into the bottom of that shelf and then set hooks, adjust chains, tie knots because the chains are way too short... I think I came up with a few new expletives along the way.
Those tomatoes and peppers better taste mighty good! |
January 24, 2015 | #10 |
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Excellent.
Just keep an eye on them and keep moving the lights up as needed. Worth |
January 26, 2015 | #11 |
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How are the seedlings doing?
Worth |
January 26, 2015 | #12 |
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salt...it looks like you are getting dialed-in! I have been bugging people here too. You learn after while who is helpful, knowledgeable, or just like to hear themselves talk. For the most part...this site has been a real blessing to me. There are sure some nice folks here. However, they will spend your pension check if you don't watch them!
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January 27, 2015 | #13 |
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Lol Ed
Here is an update. The third pic has a plant that bit the dust yesterday. |
January 27, 2015 | #14 |
Tomatovillian™
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Your casualty looks to have been a victim of damping off. Be sure to let the surface dry out between waterings and spritz the soil surface lightly with a hydrogen peroxide/water solution. Bottom watering helps, too.
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January 27, 2015 | #15 |
Tomatovillian™
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Okay more advice.
What you want to do now or soon is go down and stock up on a sterile seed starting mix. Get as many bags as you can get this year for next year. As a matter of fact get everything you can think of for next year. Why do I say this? Because next year it wont be out soon enough for you to get it for that year. You have to think a year in advance. Why, because of Christmas. The time of year we start seeds down here is at the same time as Christmas and they pull all of the seed stuff and put up Christmas stuff. You have about 6 months to do this. The folks up north dont have this problem, we do. The plants are looking great. I cant start seeds but I am having a great time looking at yours I will follow them from start to finish. Worth |
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